kick panel under the deck
+ Reply to Thread
Page 1 of 2 1 2 LastLast
Results 1 to 14 of 16

Thread:
kick panel under the deck

  1. #1
    senior member turbo wog's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Location
    sacramento
    Posts
    1,806

    Default kick panel under the deck

    my kick panel under the deck was installed in a angle . can i put it in straight up & down ? is there a reason for being cut a couple inches from the deck (flex)? thanks

  2. Remove Advertisements
    PerformanceBoats.com
    Advertisements
     

  3. #2
    Senior Member back2k5's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2008
    Location
    Arcadia CA
    Posts
    957

    Default

    Dont know about the angle but I have heard a lot about the gap being there to prevent the panel from busting up your hull when you hit one of them wakeboard boat swells.

  4. #3
    senior member turbo wog's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Location
    sacramento
    Posts
    1,806

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by back2k5 View Post
    Dont know about the angle but I have heard a lot about the gap being there to prevent the panel from busting up your hull when you hit one of them wakeboard boat swells.
    thanks , thats what i thought . any body know about the angle though, i would like to install it straight up for better rigidity . sont wanna use wood ,wanna use honeycomb stuff with glass on both sides.

  5. Remove Advertisements
    PerformanceBoats.com
    Advertisements
     

  6. #4
    Senior Member jetboatperformance's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Location
    Atascadero Calif
    Posts
    7,463

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by turbo wog View Post
    thanks , thats what i thought . any body know about the angle though, i would like to install it straight up for better rigidity . sont wanna use wood ,wanna use honeycomb stuff with glass on both sides.
    Wog what is this honeycomb stuff you speak of ? curious ? Tom

  7. #5
    senior member turbo wog's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Location
    sacramento
    Posts
    1,806

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by jetboatperformance View Post
    Wog what is this honeycomb stuff you speak of ? curious ? Tom
    hi tom, it is like plastic plywood but there are honeycomb shaped cells in it so it is super light wieght ,both sides need to have glass put on it & thats where you get your strength .
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Click image for larger version. 

Name:	P1000247.jpg 
Views:	46 
Size:	78.9 KB 
ID:	150869   Click image for larger version. 

Name:	P1000249.jpg 
Views:	48 
Size:	91.4 KB 
ID:	150870   Click image for larger version. 

Name:	P1000248.jpg 
Views:	56 
Size:	84.8 KB 
ID:	150871  

  8. #6
    Senior Member jetboatperformance's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Location
    Atascadero Calif
    Posts
    7,463

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by turbo wog View Post
    hi tom, it is like plastic plywood but there are honeycomb shaped cells in it so it is super light wieght ,both sides need to have glass put on it & thats where you get your strength .
    Just curious how well it "bonds" and accepts resins etc , just finished a toe plate / bulkhead (nothing to pattern) what a bitch of a postion to work with , both patterning and glass , did however discover empty calking gun tubes to use laminating resin/colloidal silica works very well

  9. #7
    CAPTAIN KRYLON
    Join Date
    Jul 2009
    Location
    LEWISVILLE TX
    Posts
    101

    Default

    Sounds like I need to cut mine loose at the top where I glassed it in. Glad I haven't hit the water in it yet. Sometimes my better ideas ain't!

  10. #8
    senior member turbo wog's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Location
    sacramento
    Posts
    1,806

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by jetboatperformance View Post
    Just curious how well it "bonds" and accepts resins etc , just finished a toe plate / bulkhead (nothing to pattern) what a bitch of a postion to work with , both patterning and glass , did however discover empty calking gun tubes to use laminating resin/colloidal silica works very well
    tom i'm not sure how they do it but it has a fiberous sides that is designed just for resin. i bought this at a major composite store.

  11. #9
    senior member turbo wog's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Location
    sacramento
    Posts
    1,806

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by TAYLORSS View Post
    Sounds like I need to cut mine loose at the top where I glassed it in. Glad I haven't hit the water in it yet. Sometimes my better ideas ain't!
    my bulkhead was cut so the top had a gap so the glass was in such a way that it could flex

  12. #10
    Senior Member Futs's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Location
    Orange CA, Big River
    Posts
    4,549

    Default

    In my opinion, i dont think thats going to work to well. To fragile and brittle. One good wake and its going to do some damage to itself and the boat.

  13. #11
    Senior Member ol guy's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Location
    Lake Elsinore Ca
    Posts
    3,812

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Futs View Post
    In my opinion, i dont think thats going to work to well. To fragile and brittle. One good wake and its going to do some damage to itself and the boat.
    Agreed with Futs! to tight a "bulkhead" will create stress cracks in the deck. The best bet is to glass in with a 1/4 inch gap both top and bottom. Most people can't figure out why they have stress cracks at the dash and this is why, not to mention that walking down the deck creates an area that needs to flex. Same goes with the gunnel supports. It is a fiberglass boat and now matter how light or heavy a lay-up fiberglass needs flex points and using the top half of the boat as a dance floor will create stress cracks. I am not trying to be insulting but it is what it is. Even sliding down the side of the boat will create stress cracks at the transom. The biggest enemy is rough water!!! Just my lame ass opinion and everybody can chime in and agree or disagree-hell i'm open!!! Mark

  14. #12
    senior member turbo wog's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Location
    sacramento
    Posts
    1,806

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by ol guy View Post
    Agreed with Futs! to tight a "bulkhead" will create stress cracks in the deck. The best bet is to glass in with a 1/4 inch gap both top and bottom. Most people can't figure out why they have stress cracks at the dash and this is why, not to mention that walking down the deck creates an area that needs to flex. Same goes with the gunnel supports. It is a fiberglass boat and now matter how light or heavy a lay-up fiberglass needs flex points and using the top half of the boat as a dance floor will create stress cracks. I am not trying to be insulting but it is what it is. Even sliding down the side of the boat will create stress cracks at the transom. The biggest enemy is rough water!!! Just my lame ass opinion and everybody can chime in and agree or disagree-hell i'm open!!! Mark
    thanks, i am aware that a tight bulkhead will cause problems but i have no idea if this honeycomb will be strong enough on edge & if it is ok to mount it straight up & down vs the angle that its was in originally.i would beleive that if the bulkhead is only glassed in with only 1 layer ,slapping it to the deck & floor that this honeycomb would be well strong enough , i would think it would break at the attachment points of the single layer glass first. wish i knew for sure.any ideas on this? thanks,turbo wog

  15. #13
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Apr 2010
    Location
    Rocklin, Calif.
    Posts
    1,394

    Default

    When we replaced the bulkhead in the cp, it's about 3/8" on sides from the top,to about 1" gap in the center section, and tabbed, so its strong..but the deck will flex

    Randy

  16. #14
    Senior Member ol guy's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Location
    Lake Elsinore Ca
    Posts
    3,812

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Gone Green View Post
    When we replaced the bulkhead in the cp, it's about 3/8" on sides from the top,to about 1" gap in the center section, and tabbed, so its strong..but the deck will flex

    Randy
    Green, The flex is the most important part of redoing interior glass and support. I would say that how the boat will be used and the water it will be ran in is the biggest concern! Putting an angle on the bulk-head creates more a flex area but I don't think as this is an area for that. Again I think it all depends on intended usage. I would think that TRG or others sleeping in the back-ground would be more knowledgeable in this arena! However flex is an area that experience would come in handy! My son set his bulkhead at 1/4 gap all the way around and had alot of advice from different people. With alittle luck he will post a start to finish post later! Mark

+ Reply to Thread
Page 1 of 2 1 2 LastLast

Quick Reply Quick Reply

Register Now

Please enter the name by which you would like to log-in and be known on this site.

Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.

Please enter a valid email address for yourself.

Please select your insurance company (Optional)

Log-in


Tags for this Thread

Digg This Thread

Posting Permissions

  • You may post new threads
  • You may post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  
 

1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20 21 22 23 24 25 26 27 28 29 30 31 32 33 34 35 36 37 38 39 40 41 42 43 44 45 46 47 48 49 50 51 52 53 54 55 56 57 58 59 60 61 62 63 64 65 66 67 68 69 70 71 72 73 74 75 76 77 78 79 80 81 82 83 84 85 86 87 88 89 90 91 92 93 94 95