Wet sanding and wheeling
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Wet sanding and wheeling

  1. #1
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    Default Wet sanding and wheeling

    The jet boat I picked up right before winter, has serious oxidation. With the weather finally warming I pulled it into the garage and gave a test area a go with 320, 600, 800, 1000 then 3m compound and 3m glaze. While it won't be perfect it sure will be an improvement once done.

    73' Tahiti. Some comparison pics.
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    good job I need to do that probably take me a year or two
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    Default lookin good

    looks good so far, keep going as warm weather is coming fast.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Sangerboats View Post
    looks good so far, keep going as warm weather is coming fast.
    Hopefully it will be done by Monday. Did the whole boat at 320 last night. Took about four hours. Guessing the next grits will go quicker since I am just pulling scratches and not oxidation.

    Pics when done.

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    I have to say that when I worked at Thompson Boat Co the highest grit of sand-paper that we used on Gel was # 400 grit then buffed and when I went to work at S-2 Yachts , P Q , and Skater we used 3-M , micro finish sand paper ( on Gel ) which I think is around # 600 grit which I still use today with higher grits ( wet sanding ) used only on painted surfaces .

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    Quote Originally Posted by mdsheppie View Post
    good job I need to do that probably take me a year or two
    It's perfect! Leave it alone.

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    Quote Originally Posted by polishedball View Post
    The jet boat I picked up right before winter, has serious oxidation. With the weather finally warming I pulled it into the garage and gave a test area a go with 320, 600, 800, 1000 then 3m compound and 3m glaze. While it won't be perfect it sure will be an improvement once done.

    73' Tahiti. Some comparison pics.
    Was it rough and feel like the metal flake was exposed?

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    Quote Originally Posted by progas View Post
    Was it rough and feel like the metal flake was exposed?
    The bottom line on this question is when spraying Metal flake it will be your color / flake /mixed , then your clear , and if your clear is very thin or have (blow - thru ) on the clear the metal flake will be exposed.............

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    Way too coarse. I'd be very surprised if that didn't work into the flake. Shouldn't ever need more grit than 400 or 600. Don't skip any grits, include 1500 and 2000 if possible before the compound.

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    Quote Originally Posted by progas View Post
    Was it rough and feel like the metal flake was exposed?
    Yes that was the exact feel. I thought there was no hope.

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    Quote Originally Posted by hydro_pyro View Post
    Way too coarse. I'd be very surprised if that didn't work into the flake. Shouldn't ever need more grit than 400 or 600. Don't skip any grits, include 1500 and 2000 if possible before the compound.
    May have been but it worked. It may have gotten to flake not sure, none turned up on the paper and it is smooth as can be now waxed. Huge improvement.
    Last edited by polishedball; 03-14-2015 at 12:32 PM.

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    The results. I went 325, 600, 800, 1000, 1500, 2000, 3m compound, 3m glaze, then paste wax. Before pics were with sunlight coming into the garage, afters where 3am with the 500w work light. Still have the sides to do but there in much better shape underside. gonna rest the arm for a week or two then attack it.


    Before and after.
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    Last edited by polishedball; 03-14-2015 at 12:42 PM.

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    Quote Originally Posted by hydro_pyro View Post
    Don't skip any grits, include 1500 and 2000 if possible before the compound.

    The not skipping any grits is huge as you say. I burnt a couple small spots in the narrow rail with the edge of the big wheel, did a quick touch up sand out to remove the burn but didnt go through every step. I can see the haziness where i tried to cheat.

  16. #14
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    You did good

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