New Mexico winterization
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New Mexico winterization

  1. #1
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    Default New Mexico winterization

    I'm needing some input from some of you guys about winterizing my boat.
    I'm taking my boat to a shop In Albuquerque next week to have it winterized and the guy at the shop says that, after they perform the service work, they drain the engine down and then run it in a "safe" anti-freeze. They claim it will cut down on rust growth in the engine but they mainly run it in "safe" anti freeze so they can check for leaks before I get my boat back. (1) Do any of you guys put anti-freeze in your engines. (2) Is there a "safe" anti-freeze or are these guys b.s.ing me
    Thanks for any input

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  3. #2
    Boat Bling Distributor New Mexico Bullet's Avatar
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    Not sure what "safe anti freeze" is but I use the pink stuff you can find at any walmart etc. I use 10-15 gallons make good n sure thats all I see coming out the tail pipes fog the cylinders with tranny fluid and im done. I usually go ahead & put in a new set of plugs right then so it will light off in the spring. Very easy to do. Hope this helps.

  4. #3
    " Live Laterally " Dominator's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by New Mexico Bullet View Post
    Not sure what "safe anti freeze" is but I use the pink stuff you can find at any walmart etc. I use 10-15 gallons make good n sure thats all I see coming out the tail pipes fog the cylinders with tranny fluid and im done. I usually go ahead & put in a new set of plugs right then so it will light off in the spring. Very easy to do. Hope this helps.
    x2 what he said. I would also fog the carb and change the oil so when it comes time all you have to do is goooooooooooooo!!!!!!!!!!!
    " NO MOTOR NO BOATER "

    " I'd rather be riding in my boat thinking about God, than in church thinking about my boat ".


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    Senior Member BigBoyToys's Avatar
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    I winterized all of mine yesterday. I use a Bilge Pump and connect it directly to the water intake line and pump anti-freeze in until I have pure anti freeze coming out of the water dump, then I blow most of it out with an air hose. I then fill up the gas tanks, add Sta-Bil and Gas Line Anti Freeze/Water Remover, run it for about 5 minutes, replace spark plugs and fog the cylinders, and then when done I spray the wires, belts, etc with a Silicone Spray to help preserve them and keep them from cracking.

    One thing to remember if it is a Jet, make sure you take off the grease fitting deals on the outside of the pump and blow out any water that is in there, and then fill it up with some 90 wt gear oil. No need to lose a Jet Pump from the nasty cold...

    A Nice Big Heated SHop would work alot better than all of this though, but I'm so broke I can't even afford a tarp let alone a shop
    Last edited by BigBoyToys; 10-05-2009 at 09:57 AM.

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    I called them back and he said it was a propylene based anti-freeze and not the ethylene base. He said it was going to be a pink colored anti-freeze but he did say some manufacturers are now tinting it some kind of blue color ???. I went by their shop to see how they do it and what they have, is a big metal tank with a fiberglass liner that has a big pump in it which then pumps the anti freeze into the normal water pick ups on the drive, they start the engine and let it run. He gave me a msds sheet on the anti-freeze but it looks like the same stuff used in r.v's. All they do for their so called "basic" winterization is check the drive for water, put some kind of fuel additive in it, drain the engine, run it in their anti-freeze and spray some kind of oil in the carbs. It sounds like from your responses, that's all that's necessary (outside of changing oils/fluids). Anything else? Does $100.00 seem reasonable for this service?

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    Senior Member Havasu Sun's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Speedy G View Post
    I called them back and he said it was a propylene based anti-freeze and not the ethylene base. He said it was going to be a pink colored anti-freeze but he did say some manufacturers are now tinting it some kind of blue color ???. I went by their shop to see how they do it and what they have, is a big metal tank with a fiberglass liner that has a big pump in it which then pumps the anti freeze into the normal water pick ups on the drive, they start the engine and let it run. He gave me a msds sheet on the anti-freeze but it looks like the same stuff used in r.v's. All they do for their so called "basic" winterization is check the drive for water, put some kind of fuel additive in it, drain the engine, run it in their anti-freeze and spray some kind of oil in the carbs. It sounds like from your responses, that's all that's necessary (outside of changing oils/fluids). Anything else? Does $100.00 seem reasonable for this service?
    YES. Damn that seems cheep to me. Where are you having it done? I need to get mine scheduled at a shop in Elephante Butte. Does that mean that summer is over

  9. #7
    " Live Laterally " Dominator's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Havasu Sun View Post
    YES. Damn that seems cheep to me. Where are you having it done? I need to get mine scheduled at a shop in Elephante Butte. Does that mean that summer is over
    for us guys in the northern parts it is.
    " NO MOTOR NO BOATER "

    " I'd rather be riding in my boat thinking about God, than in church thinking about my boat ".


  10. #8
    Senior Member pwerwagn's Avatar
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    I used to use the pink stuff in my jet ski, the same stuff I used to winterize my 5th wheel with...

    My outboard is easy to winterize. Fog it, put the motor down and head home.
    1985 Fineline Centurion tunnel, 1988 200hp merc, "Still Halfast"
    2001 Carrera 257 Effect X, Twin 2000 Pro Max 300's, "Halfast^2"

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    The price is just for their "basic" winterize. It's 99.00 plus about 30.00 for the materials. Mark at D&M Marine is who I'm dealing with. They did some drive work and some other misc stuff in the spring, which I've had no problems with, so I figured they should be more than capable of "freeze-proofing" my stuff. They are in Albuquerque, near the Big I. 884-2628.

  12. #10
    21 Daytona Outlaw's Avatar
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    I always recommend draining the fuel from the carburetor if equipped.

    leaving antifreeze in the block
    has to be better than an empty block IMO

    winterizing is good time to change your lower unit lube.

    if you happen to have a leaky seal there can be enough
    water in the oil to cause problems during winter.
    #55

  13. #11
    Displaced Azian
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    I'm dragging mine down to Phoenix at the end of the month,, figure that's easier than winterizing. Besides, that way the boat is there to hit Havasu in the springtime
    Livin at Lake Powell!!

  14. #12
    21 Daytona Outlaw's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by mardonzi View Post
    I'm dragging mine down to Phoenix at the end of the month,, figure that's easier than winterizing. Besides, that way the boat is there to hit Havasu in the springtime
    Good Plan
    #55

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    Just got the boat back this morning and beleive it or not it's actually cleaner, a lot cleaner, than when I took it in. How often does that happen? To bad I had to tow it in the rain. They did a great job, from what I can tell, and the price was actually 20.00 less than what I was told. That never happens. I would recommend D&M to anyone and everyone.

  16. #14
    Displaced Azian
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    Quote Originally Posted by Speedy G View Post
    Just got the boat back this morning and beleive it or not it's actually cleaner, a lot cleaner, than when I took it in. How often does that happen? To bad I had to tow it in the rain. They did a great job, from what I can tell, and the price was actually 20.00 less than what I was told. That never happens. I would recommend D&M to anyone and everyone.
    Do you have an address for these guys? Being new to the area, I might want to stop by and check out the place.
    Livin at Lake Powell!!

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