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Topic Review (Newest First)

  • 04-23-2010, 06:07 AM
    Hass828
    Quote Originally Posted by HammerDown View Post
    Or wipe the bearing so bad...it pushed the crank forward!
    My jet-a-way "should" absorb that and let it actually wipe out the bearing before taking the thrust in the engine along with it.
  • 04-23-2010, 06:06 AM
    Hass828
    Quote Originally Posted by sleekcrafter View Post
    Hass... I mic'ed the sleeves tonight, although they appear to be different, they measure identical. The stainless, and the ano aluminum slingers are identical.
    One the ones I have the OD of the aluminum one is 1.750", and the stainless one is 1.875".
    And if you look at the edge that actually makes contact with the race, the stainless one is cut almost square with only a slight radius. The aluminum one has a huge radius and the flat that makes contact with the race is very small.
  • 04-22-2010, 07:56 PM
    sleekcrafter
    Quote Originally Posted by Hass828 View Post
    Thanks for the response. Funny thing is I ran this same exact bearing for 6yrs with the same engine hp & nos setup and never hurt it, but it had the larger slinger on it.

    I agree on the aluminum slinger. Its a turd.

    Hass... I mic'ed the sleeves tonight, although they appear to be different, they measure identical. The stainless, and the ano aluminum slingers are identical.
  • 04-22-2010, 06:47 PM
    HammerDown
    Quote Originally Posted by Hass828 View Post
    Yes there is a front & rear of the bearing and it must be put in the correct way. From what I understand the little grove were they actually load the bearing goes to the front (toward the engine).
    And your right, lucky it didnt sieze and spin the bearing in the housing.
    Or wipe the bearing so bad...it pushed the crank forward!
  • 04-22-2010, 06:07 PM
    lefty's pride
    Quote Originally Posted by FastRat View Post
    excuse me, but, why cant u run a sealed bearing?...thus eliminating a future failure! ...just askin'

    FastRat
    sealed bearings are mad up the same way "generally" at least with a grease able bearing you can get new grease in it a seal you dont they both use grease.
  • 04-22-2010, 05:06 AM
    cjaj70
    Quote Originally Posted by Hass828 View Post
    If you look at the pic of that bearing , it broke right down to the exact place were the aluminum spacer was touching. That spacer has the edges very rounded off and didnt have hardly any surface area actually touching the race. The stainless one is almost squared off and is larger diameter too. Supports almost out to the edge of that race.
    Yeah i was typing the other message when you posted that. Looks like you have things figured out.
  • 04-21-2010, 11:24 PM
    FastRat
    excuse me, but, why cant u run a sealed bearing?...thus eliminating a future failure! ...just askin'

    FastRat
  • 04-21-2010, 07:44 PM
    Hass828
    Quote Originally Posted by lefty's pride View Post
    OK dumb question is there a front or back on the bearing. i have seen other bearings in diffrent applications that had a thicker side wall to the bearing to handle the axial thrust better. PS your vary lucky it didn't just seize and have to get a paddle out
    Yes there is a front & rear of the bearing and it must be put in the correct way. From what I understand the little grove were they actually load the bearing goes to the front (toward the engine).
    And your right, lucky it didnt sieze and spin the bearing in the housing.
  • 04-21-2010, 06:56 PM
    lefty's pride
    OK dumb question is there a front or back on the bearing. i have seen other bearings in diffrent applications that had a thicker side wall to the bearing to handle the axial thrust better. PS your vary lucky it didn't just seize and have to get a paddle out
  • 04-21-2010, 06:17 PM
    Hass828
    Quote Originally Posted by cs19 View Post
    The slinger ring has nothing to do with what went wrong here, that ring is not designed to support the race like that, that bearing failed on its own. I'm not surprised it did although never seen that kind of failure.

    I'd also can the aluminum slinger ring, the suction seal will eat right through that thing even with hard anno and you will have a leaky jetaway.
    Thanks for the response. Funny thing is I ran this same exact kind of bearing for 6yrs straight without changing it and with the same engine hp & nos setup and never hurt it, but it had the larger slinger on it.

    I agree on the aluminum slinger. Its a turd.
  • 04-21-2010, 05:07 PM
    cs19
    The slinger ring has nothing to do with what went wrong here, that ring is not designed to support the race like that, that bearing failed on its own. I'm not surprised it did although never seen that kind of failure.

    I'd also can the aluminum slinger ring, the suction seal will eat right through that thing even with hard anno and you will have a leaky jetaway.
  • 04-21-2010, 05:03 PM
    cs19
    Low quality bearing caused that in my opinion.
  • 04-21-2010, 04:40 PM
    Hass828
    Quote Originally Posted by sleekcrafter View Post
    X 2 on the Koyo 3307, have a ZLK in the shop with about 3 weeks of use, it's bad enough already I would not put it back in. good thing the rachet lube stinks
    I'm going to try the Koyo this time. and your right about the lube stinking
  • 04-21-2010, 04:39 PM
    Hass828
    Quote Originally Posted by DJG View Post
    The thicker wall slinger ring is for an early dominator 12-s. The thinner one is for a late dom, berk, legend. I wouldnt think that was your problem because I have seen 1800 plus hp make many passes with the thin wall slinger. That is with a koyo 3307 though not a zkl.
    Either one of the slingers will fit mine and its a new dominator suction. You just have to have the correct seal for the slinger.
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