Valvetrain Noise on mechanichal roller engine - Reply to Topic

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Topic Review (Newest First)

  • 08-14-2011, 04:32 PM
    ol guy
    Quote Originally Posted by Sold honda.bought hondo View Post
    Something i recently noticed...roll up and stick in your ear ear plugs are great for getting past exhaust noise so valve lash is easy to hear....it might sound like a bunch of racket at first but after a while
    it has kind of a cadence at idle...
    That has been used for years by old school tuners! Mechanics stethiscope. I have an old screwdriver in my tool box for just that reason. It is the best way to narrow down a clickity-click rather than running the whole rack! Once you get used to the rest of the valve train noise associated with mechanicals it's a slam dunk. It does take a tuned ear! M
  • 08-13-2011, 03:22 AM
    SoldHondaBoughtHondo
    Something i recently noticed...roll up and stick in your ear ear plugs are great for getting past exhaust noise so valve lash is easy to hear....it might sound like a bunch of racket at first but after a while
    it has kind of a cadence at idle...
  • 08-12-2011, 07:15 PM
    ol guy
    Quote Originally Posted by gn7 View Post
    Exactly. If your that concerned, use 2 feeler gauges, one of them 1 thou thicker.
    Hal, don't make to much about this. The main thing is the same feel. Your talking less than a thou between snug and no go. Less than a thou between sloppy easy and snug. I gaurantee none of thje lash clearances are holding their lashes that close while running and hot. Even if you could lash them while running 3000 across the water, they wouldn't run the same at 5500. Some might get a thou tighter, and some get a thou looser, just due to water flow thru heads, or a slight A/F difference between cylinders. Same goes for piston clearances. Its not an exact science at this level.

    Set em up about .004-.006 tighter than the hot lash and try to set them all with the same feel, and be done with it.
    I agree with above mentioned! I frankly don"t care about hot and cold settings for the simple reason that valve adjust is going to vary that much just in human error! This is not a stab at you but a fact. Simple example: you miss the flat part of the lobe by a degree or so- you set tight on one or two valves. Solids are forgiving in this area more than a hydraulic. A solid valve train is going to make a different sound than a hydraulic no matter what. YOU WILL HEAR THEM! I have ran them for years and realized this long ago! I have watched guys at the track tighten up the clearance just to gain alittle bottom end for the finals--no big deal. You can alter lash on a solid ALOT easier than with a hydraulic just for tuning purposes and the cam doesn't feel a thing. the glory of a solid lifter set-up. JMO M
  • 08-11-2011, 07:10 PM
    gn7
    Exactly. If your that concerned, use 2 feeler gauges, one of them 1 thou thicker.
    Hal, don't make to much about this. The main thing is the same feel. Your talking less than a thou between snug and no go. Less than a thou between sloppy easy and snug. I gaurantee none of thje lash clearances are holding their lashes that close while running and hot. Even if you could lash them while running 3000 across the water, they wouldn't run the same at 5500. Some might get a thou tighter, and some get a thou looser, just due to water flow thru heads, or a slight A/F difference between cylinders. Same goes for piston clearances. Its not an exact science at this level.

    Set em up about .004-.006 tighter than the hot lash and try to set them all with the same feel, and be done with it.



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  • 08-11-2011, 06:42 PM
    SoldHondaBoughtHondo
    Might try a go/no go feeler gauge
  • 08-11-2011, 05:53 PM
    holorinhal
    Can some one explain to me more detail how the feeler gauge should feel when checking the lash? I know yhey say it should feel like a butterknife thru cold butterYadaYadaYada, But i guese maybe I need a little more than that. Should I have to give it a litle shove or should it easily slide in/ Should I be able to move ithe feeler gauge easily side to side or only slide it side ways with a litle tug?
    I just want to make sure I am measruing the lash correctly and not interpriting the feel too loose or too tight.....Hal
  • 08-10-2011, 11:01 PM
    gn7
    .002 doesn't sound like much for an alum head. Like Sleeper said, .004-.006 is more like it. Ours run .006 tighter when cold. I would think that if you set them at .026 cold you would be fine. I would much perfer to be a shade tight than loose. I can see no reason to ever run a lash looser when the recommeded lash is .030. But thats just me.



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  • 08-10-2011, 03:46 PM
    holorinhal
    ok i just finnished running the valves to check the differance between yesterdays hot reading and todays cold reading. what i an getting today while the engine is cold is .028 so that is .002 tighter and again that is using the feel of a knife thru cold butter.
    So should I just leave it alone there and allways set cold at .028 or would it hurt to tighten them up a couple thousandths so that the lash is a little tighter than .030 on the hot side. If so how much tighter should I go....Hal
  • 08-10-2011, 09:25 AM
    billet racing

    hot vs cold

    I too always set my lash when cold. Usually .004-.006 tighter than cam card says. On the turbo motor, takes about 1/2 hour or more per side to remove the turbo, exhaust, tubing, covers... and by then the motors cold enouph to change everything. And removing a hot turbo is no fun!

    Best thing, is when you get back home, check everything, with a cold beer. Then if you find something, you can adjust or repair while you have time.

    Jerry
  • 08-10-2011, 09:09 AM
    Sleeper CP
    Quote Originally Posted by holorinhal View Post
    So I will wait untill tomarrow and check the differance between hot and cold,if any and from then on I should be able to set them cold,right? Please tell me if I did this right or if I have missed something.......Hal
    My set of Alumi heads grow .004 - .006" when hot. If I want .028" hot I'll set them at .022" cold. that's close enough for me.


    Once you know what your engine is supposed to sound like, you'll be able to pck-up on all the little changes it will make over time.

    S CP
  • 08-09-2011, 11:11 PM
    gn7
    Quote Originally Posted by holorinhal View Post
    So I will wait untill tomarrow and check the differance between hot and cold,if any and from then on I should be able to set them cold,right? Please tell me if I did this right or if I have missed something.......Hal
    Then you'll find that the lash is all over the place again , just as it was when it was hot and you re adjusted everything. A/F ratio, and water flow thru the heads plays a huge part of the exhaust lash. It not an exact science unless your playing with Nascar type money.



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  • 08-09-2011, 08:37 PM
    holorinhal
    Ok after burning my hands and arms and head a half a dozen times, on the hot valve covers and especialy the headers, i ran thru and checked the valve lash for the hot settings. The cam card calls for .030 intake and .030 exhaust hot, and hot it was!
    I used the feel of a knife thru cold butter techniuqe and all the intake valves seemed to be prety dam close. However not all but some of the exhaust valves felt a little loose. I adjusted the exhaust valves to what feels like the proper setting and then ran thru all the valves one more time to make sure I did not miss any thing and they all felt the same. I used the eo-ic method but I did not use the fireing order. I just went down the line. Century performence seems to be pretty adimant about using the firing order ,but all others I have rea seem to advocate just going down the line. I hope this is ok?
    So I will wait untill tomarrow and check the differance between hot and cold,if any and from then on I should be able to set them cold,right? Please tell me if I did this right or if I have missed something.......Hal
  • 07-15-2011, 04:19 PM
    holorinhal
    Quote Originally Posted by Futs View Post
    Hal, is that the same cam you got from my brother? If so, run it at .030. They will make a bunch of noise at intial fire up and seem to quiet down when its warm. I always do my valves cold so i know that there are always set the same.
    Tim, no its not the same cam, i still have that cam tucked safely away for another project. The cam I have in right now is a little bigger and is a solid grind where as the other was a hydraulic grind with solid morel lifters.
    I decided to go with all brand spanking new internals below the heads.
  • 07-15-2011, 12:39 PM
    stix818
    My cam is .032" Intake and .030" exhaust.. I set them a little tighter like GN mentioned.. I set mine hot but I don't have much of a choice between rounds.. We've been doing it that way for years with 0 issues (knock on wood).. My opinion is follow the cam card..
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