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first thing I would do would be get rid of the edlebrock carb. Have only seen 1 that actually ran
ok so i went out to remove my jet n i realized i forgot to grease my u joints so i thaught that might have caused the whine n maybe not the jet also as i was digging in the jet i found all the seals in transom plate were missing so my bud says why dont we maguiver this n get it wet n see if these r truely the problems it had. i was gonna remove n rebuild the jet but the bowl plugs r brass n it seems like they braised themselves in n the zerk on the suction housing only has about 2 turns of thread so now i want to replace the jetbut my budget is only for a rebuild so i fudge it let get our maguiver on i know dumb but i need to save more bread. so i used o rings to make the steering tube seal n some fuel hose n clamp n a whole lot of silacone to try and seal transom then moved to trying to get my motor timed better my timing light broke so refound tdc am reset the dampner my boy put on wrong and reset the dizzy and tht went good it fires faster idles smoother so then i moved to fuel air mixture. i have an edlebrock 600cfm carb while adjustng passsenger side i turned it down n made it stumle then backed out bout half a turn then move to the driver side and turned it all the way in n motor didnt change at all wtf. what would cause that what can i do guys? also idles very good steady n clean when at 2000 rpm has about a 200 rpm change up n down doesnt hold steady 2500 3000 rpm smooth again? any thaughts im not a mechanic just a tattooer with some common sense even though first part of this doesnt support last statement
Here is the Kauai page from the brochure I have.
Pretty sure the brochure I have is circa 1980 as is evident by the date on the dealer pricing sheet I found in it. I scanned the entire brochure & price sheet here. Sleek Craft Brochure pictures by OhOneWS6 - Photobucket
no mines a kauai my length is 19 feet long and has the kauai logo on the dash and is 950lbs
Originally Posted by Dean Corinth i believe that is the same hull as mine Pretty sure they both are the SleekCraft Sportster. Here it is in a brochure I have.
os so its been a minute i got her done (i thought) and took her to test and pump sang the saddest song(bearing i think) and bowl leaked half way up the side so i took her back home
questions zerk fitting above bearing can u drill and tap for new zerk half the threads r bad only has a full turn and its tight also want zerk for the bowl im like 110 miles from jbp in cali for next 2 week before home to vegas might drive north n check them out to see if thier rebuild kit is same part for part as from berkely themselves also i have been eyeballing a pump they have rebuilt do they take urs as a core or no
here are pics of failed test day and when i finished her up
i believe that is the same hull as mine
k so I have a 460 engine dove block that I swapped out a new block and I tried to use old distributor, it was very hard to make the distributor seat, we bumped the engine over and over and it finally settled but it had a wobble when engine ran.
When I went to remove distributor, because of wobble, it wouldnt come out. I ended up breaking the distrubutor from the shaft to get it out. When looking down in to the gear it seemed like the gear was underneath the cam, shouldnt it ride even with cam.
Now heres my thought, the drive line for the oil pump that I used was in the dooley kit for the high volume oil pan I picked up used from another member. The original drive shaft for the pump has flat ends and the dooley has tapered ends but rods are both equal distance end to end. Is the tapered one I got in the dooley set up wrong and will it allow my distributor to sink further in than it should because if inside the pump and distributor has a spot for the shaft to rest or stop itself and the original being flat and the dooley being tapered am I losing distance for where my gear rides. Or did the f'ing retards who beat the shit out of this poor boat have the wrong distributor or the wrong gear on the HEI. Help or thoughts would be most valuable here.
F me two steps forward and 5 steps back so i tried to pull distributor and it wouldnt budge tried bumping it gently prying it and nothing so in anger gave it a good tug and whole shaft stays in and top of distributor comes out. so we try vise grips and nothing so my people say lets put on two vise grips and use engine hoist and pull it out noooooooooo so after thinking (ya i know it hurt) i say lets pull plugs and rock motor back and forth a bit and ill try and lift it out and that worked thank u lil baby jesus. lucky the teeth were not hurt. brad tried and help me by showing me where to get a new cheap hei thanks man but the shaft and gear on it were seperate and did not have any way to lock together so im just gonna bite the bullet and B.O.A.T and get a kick ass one. good side more wiring done added a bow n stern light tomorrow wiring should be done just have to order hei and wait here are some pics guys
ok so i fried a starter so we decided to rewire whole boat . today she fired for a quick second and i noticed a wobble in disrtibutor can the shaft bend when old motor failed if so need to find a new one in vegas hei dui. got a couple crack pics from today
getting closer motor is in her im stoked i just might see water this year finally
Originally Posted by jetboatperformance Heres an idea on sub floor bulkhead drain hole , These J drains , popular on V-drives and tunnels provide a one way valve to bolge water thats some pertty stuff id like to know pricing also