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Topic Review (Newest First)

  • 01-15-2008, 08:42 AM
    franky
    Quote Originally Posted by cs19 View Post
    The one other thing we noticed was where the dist contacts the tangs on the drive shaft there were shiny spots where it was contacting or loading. The wear marks were very small and at the outer edges of the tangs on the shaft. In other words all the load was on the very edge of the tangs, Im thinking the slot in the shaft was machined too big/sloppy fit. The red lines in the pic below resemble the wear pattern Im trying to describe. Not sure if its related but its not right IMO. Anyways just wanted to share this with you guys, if anyone is running a titan standard drive shaft Id be checking the shaft periodically, hate see one fail on someone.


    Nice Chris, getting all Metallergist on us!!!
  • 01-11-2008, 09:39 AM
    Mcintyrelocal
    thanks for the info.
  • 01-10-2008, 11:53 PM
    Fiat48
    I haven't seen one break. I do have a spare but have not used it in 4 years. The particular setup I have is real fine tooth deal..like 8mm. Pro stock cars, nascar...have run dry sump for years.

    Probably like blower belts or timing belts. They only break when when something else causes it....not just break.

    Couple of nice things about dry sump. You can pre heat the oil in the tank (built in heater) and you can slip the belt off and run the oil pump with a drill motor and prelube the motor. Plus the HP gain.
  • 01-10-2008, 11:34 PM
    Mcintyrelocal
    Hey fiat have you ever seen the dry sump belts break,i know they are getting more popular so i was just wondering how often if at all?
  • 01-10-2008, 11:06 PM
    cs19
    Quote Originally Posted by Fiat48 View Post
    Well....what real options do you have? You got the original shaft that broke. And then you got this upgrade deal Titan sells. A regular oil pump shaft won't work because it is not hexed on one end and slotted on the other.
    Unless Morroso or Melling makes something because they do make some spur gear pumps that are hex shaft on the oil pump end. But length may be different.
    yep, pretty much married to this setup, its a great pump. Hopefully the hex drive holds up, its pretty simple to give it a quick inspection. Just have to yank the dist. then drop a magnet in and lift out the oil pump drive and inspect. done it before no big deal unless you drop the drive shaft
  • 01-10-2008, 10:28 PM
    Fiat48
    Well....what real options do you have? You got the original shaft that broke. And then you got this upgrade deal Titan sells. A regular oil pump shaft won't work because it is not hexed on one end and slotted on the other.
    Unless Morroso or Melling makes something because they do make some spur gear pumps that are hex shaft on the oil pump end. But length may be different.
  • 01-10-2008, 09:21 PM
    cs19
    Quote Originally Posted by vee-driven View Post
    I think the hardened shaft in the soft bronze gear might lead to some problems, some of my ford homo friends that used to beat on their 5. slows have twisted the sh!t out of those allan wrench hex shafts. Let me ask you this, if you break a carillo rod are you not going to use them again?
    Well we are going to keep a clase eye on things first few outings, are you thinking the gear will let go or afraid of twisting the shaft.
  • 01-10-2008, 09:19 PM
    cs19
    Quote Originally Posted by gn7 View Post
    if it's an after market block especially merlin, the shaft can bind in the block, some open the block up others run ARP Merlin shaft which is slighty smaller in diameter. Are there any shiny areas on the shaft?

    no shiny areas on the shaft other than where i drew those red lines and a little where the shaft is "captured" in the dist. gear.
  • 01-10-2008, 08:36 PM
    Fiat48
    Quote Originally Posted by DEL51 View Post
    A little side step on this thread fiat,sorry chris,. Why do you think the drysump helps the bearing situation with an alcohol engine? Thanks,DEL51
    Because you have oil pressure in any position but upside down....at all times.
    With the drag car...the oil pressure dove when we hit the chute....no matter how we made baffles or tried to trap oil. Same deal when letting out of the flat or putting the boat down hard.
  • 01-10-2008, 08:02 PM
    vee-driven
    I think the hardened shaft in the soft bronze gear might lead to some problems, some of my ford homo friends that used to beat on their 5. slows have twisted the sh!t out of those allan wrench hex shafts. Let me ask you this, if you break a carillo rod are you not going to use them again?
  • 01-10-2008, 07:52 PM
    DEL51
    Quote Originally Posted by Fiat48 View Post
    LOL. What I expected them to say. I considered going to one of those pumps when they first came out. But they were a little too pricey. If I was gonna go that far or the Moroso external pump...I figured I might as well go dry sump. Which I am happy that I did. Best bearing life I have ever had with blown alcohol.
    A little side step on this thread fiat,sorry chris,. Why do you think the drysump helps the bearing situation with an alcohol engine? Thanks,DEL51
  • 01-10-2008, 11:11 AM
    Fiat48
    Yeah. I got 2 of them out there and they are not wearing. No more brass in the oil. I like em. I do wish they would make an oversize gear to take up some "lash" on some deals. Both are on Vertex's...have not done a Super mag yet.
    Using the one Comp Cams makes.

    COMP Cams Composite Distributor Gears
    Distributor Gear, Composite, Carbon Ultra-Poly, .491 in. Diameter Shaft, Chevy, Small Block/ Big Block, Each
    Today $109.95
  • 01-10-2008, 11:03 AM
    Blown to the Bone
    Quote Originally Posted by Fiat48 View Post
    That's why I asked if you ran a mag. Because mags are hard on bronze gears and the new carbon gear deal is better. But msd dist are not hard to turn....so brass gear wear is far less. So...I see no reason why not to go with Titan's fix.
    Fiat have you used the carbon gear with a mag?
  • 01-10-2008, 07:41 AM
    gn7
    if it's an after market block especially merlin, the shaft can bind in the block, some open the block up others run ARP Merlin shaft which is slighty smaller in diameter. Are there any shiny areas on the shaft?



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