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Topic Review (Newest First)

  • 06-29-2008, 05:04 PM
    SmokinLowriderSS
    I do locktite the studs to the heads (#271, Stud and bearing sealant) and anti-sieze the self-locking nuts (not Nylocks). No issues here.
  • 06-29-2008, 03:45 PM
    Sleeper CP
    Quote Originally Posted by River Rat 005 View Post
    Why do studs and brass nuts work better? If the bolts or nuts are torqued the same shouldn't they both stay tight?

    Tim
    It has to do with the heat cycle; cold,hot,cold,hot = expansion, contraction etc, etc.

    The alumi & metal expand and contract at a different rate. The brass nuts balance between the two and just about never back off. One might from time to time but not very often.

    That's the best answer I can give you.

    Sleeper CP
  • 06-29-2008, 03:35 PM
    River Rat 005
    Why do studs and brass nuts work better? If the bolts or nuts are torqued the same shouldn't they both stay tight?

    Tim
  • 06-29-2008, 02:00 PM
    Sleeper CP
    Quote Originally Posted by Shaun View Post
    W.O.T you may be on to somthing that will help, one thing i do notice is that the arp polished stainless bolts that hold my headers into place always come out easy when i'm removing the headers. They are still tight, but probably not as tight as they could be. Wonder if i should use some locktite or somthing on the bolts to help keep them down. I'm going to try to get a set of cometics here by wend and i'll just try to make sure i keep them tight and if that will help.

    Studs and brass nuts I tried the locktite bit 18 yrs. ago. Studs and brass nuts work soooooooo much better.


    Sleeper CP
  • 06-29-2008, 11:31 AM
    Shaun
    W.O.T you may be on to somthing that will help, one thing i do notice is that the arp polished stainless bolts that hold my headers into place always come out easy when i'm removing the headers. They are still tight, but probably not as tight as they could be. Wonder if i should use some locktite or somthing on the bolts to help keep them down. I'm going to try to get a set of cometics here by wend and i'll just try to make sure i keep them tight and if that will help.
  • 06-29-2008, 01:36 AM
    W.O.T
    i usually re tighten mine very often to prevent blowing gaskets with my BBC and basset twisties.
  • 06-28-2008, 10:45 PM
    HKROB
    RTV is old school there are better products out there I use Loctite 515 gasket eliminator.I have used this stuff on 1500 psi hydrogen compressors.

    Attachment 12360

  • 06-28-2008, 09:48 PM
    Gravyboat
    Quote Originally Posted by stix818 View Post
    That's funny, I was going to say RTV also but thought you guys would give me a hard time!!! RTV rules!!!
    Same here. Many years ago I had incessant header leak on a car. My buddy suggested hi temp RTV. I said get the fuk outta here! It worked.

    In addition to relief cutting the flanges, you can try doubling the gasket and using RTV. That's what I've got going myself, but I've logs so I don't know for sure bout your particular headers.
  • 06-28-2008, 03:12 PM
    Shaun
    ya people keep mentioning that to me but the problem isnt really that the header is warped like that, each primary at the top i have a low spot.

    I have gone to 3 places now, nobody can surface these things. Anybody know where i can have them done in So Cal?
  • 06-28-2008, 01:14 PM
    Sleeper CP
    If you haven't you might want to cut the flange between cylinder's to make each cylinder a stand-alone.

    Sleeper CP
  • 06-28-2008, 12:16 PM
    Shaun
    Since my headers where off i decided to check them out, after cleaning the flange with a brush and gettin it all shinny i held a straight edge up and it's definitly warped where i was blowing out the gaskets. It's pretty bad, i want to say it 1/32 or maybe even 1/16'th where i was blowing out. How much can be surfaced off before i start messing with the integrity of the headers?
  • 06-19-2008, 05:04 PM
    SRP1
    Yep Hi-temp RTV, gaskets will give in and allow the flange to warp.
    You can surface the flanges yourself, you need a manageable piece of machined flat 1/2" thick steel plate, about 5" long. Using some 220 grit wet/ dry sand the flange flat working equally across the flange. A good flat metal file will knock the big stuff off then finish with the hand sanding. Just make sure you work on a level parallel plane to the flange, don't roll over on the edges and your good to go.
    Or of course you can go the easy route and have it done.
    Good luck with it.
  • 06-19-2008, 04:49 PM
    stix818
    They have a blue hi-temp also. That's what we use!!
  • 06-19-2008, 04:22 PM
    cfm
    Check your flanges for flatness and get corrected or fight gasket issues forever.

    BTW: Permatex Ultra Black is what us snowmobilers use on our exhaust joints. Yup, the OEM's (snowmobile) too.

    If you don't think our exhausts get hot take a look at how long one of my WFO runs was here, oh, and this was edited to take some time out of the clip - lol:

    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TYQK84Nkf7c
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