Post a reply to the thread: crank help
Send Trackbacks to (Separate multiple URLs with spaces)
You may choose an icon for your message from this list
Please enter the name by which you would like to log-in and be known on this site.
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.
Please enter a valid email address for yourself.
Please select your insurance company (Optional)
Will turn www.example.com into [URL]http://www.example.com[/URL].
There is no using those caps in the pic up there, not enought material, you'd have to buy the milodon caps. http://www.milodon.com/main-caps/main-caps.asp I don't know if there is anyone else out there selling them, would like to know if there is, i've only used these
I'll get a pic of the flange.
Originally Posted by Hallettbutt If it "rings" it's forged. If it "thuds" it's cast.
Or it is cracked!!!!
If you have a picture of the crank flange we may be able to help with it's identity. If it is a casting someone cleaned up, they did a good job by looking at the picture.
Hard to tell from the pic but it appears to be shotpeened?!?
Thanks for the info guys.... Sounds like the 4 bolt would be a better combo for my upcoming motor. Hoping for around 700 or so.
What he said.
I think if you were putting together something worth 600 HP and no nitrous or slamming, a studded two bolt would be OK, but again, there's always the chance... if your machinist is willing to take the heat for it, then go for it. But then too, are you willing to go through the headache and probable extra damage from just giving it that leeetle bit extra on that tasty piece of water at day's end.
I say this from personal experience and by no means am I any kind of authority- you'll see my pretty basic questions here as well. I put together a two bolt 468 with ARP everything, paid real good attention to the little things and spun that thing to 6 grand for two years. No problems. I built a duplicate for my buddy, I mean down to the trash screens and Glyptol in the valleys. Made it 2 hours and cracked at one of the main webs. So I'm batting .500 with two bolts. Would I do it again, sure for a station wagon or a pickup. My limited experience with boats and the sustained runs and short bursts has shown to me that a four bolt is money well spent in the longer run.
Two bolt is a two bolt either way you swing it. There are plenty of people out there running big numbers with a two bolt but the question to ask yourself is, are you a gambling man and how much power am I goin to put in it. Milodon offers a two bolt to 4 bolt conversion but now you're talking about drilling the block. It really comes down to how much power you want to put in it. I know people running 650hp in a two bolt for years and never had problems. Then again, I've met a few who will never go back to a two bolt ever again. It kinda scars you for life when you blow it and find yourself in an unfortunate situation. If it helps there is an article in I think super chevy magazine where they talk about different conversions. I'll see if I can track it down.
Is a studded two bolt that bad for a pump gas combo?? I was under the thinking that a two bolt with billet splayed caps with additional holes drilled in the block was better than a factory 4 bolt anyway. No??
Reason I'm asking is that I have the other 4-bolt that I could keep for my upcoming project.
My guess would be that it's a cast crank that someone did some grinding on. Cast cranks have a finer parting line and are easier to clean up. If I were to buy it, well, I wouldn't as it's a two bolt, but pull the crank and lightly hit it with a metal hammer. If it "rings" it's forged. If it "thuds" it's cast.
I don't think it's a billet...they're made out of one big round piece of steel and every surface is machined. That looks like a forging, but it's hard to tell in the pic.
Can anybody tell if this is a cast, forged, billet or what? Most of the forged cranks I have seen have a wide shoulder in the middle and the cast do not. This crank is totally smooth with no marks at all. The last time I saw this the guy I sold it to called back and told me I had sold him a $1400 4-bolt short block with Crower billet std/std crank..... Oops
Just wondering if anybody can explain an easy wat to tell the diff........