Air/fuel guage-O2 recommendations? - Reply to Topic

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Topic Review (Newest First)

  • 03-06-2008, 04:52 PM
    fasterthanu
    Quote Originally Posted by 396_Ways_To_Spit View Post
    Since we are on the topic.
    Can you run "Unleaded Racefuel" and still use an 02 sensor? I would love to have on for tunning but dont want false readings.



    S[itter
    From what I understand the lead is what kills the sensor in shorter order than unleaded. Atleast the Bosch sensors I have used are for unleaded fuel. NGk says 50hrs on lead 500 plus on unlead....

    fu
  • 03-01-2008, 10:03 AM
    396_Ways_To_Spit
    Since we are on the topic.
    Can you run "Unleaded Racefuel" and still use an 02 sensor? I would love to have on for tunning but dont want false readings.



    S[itter
  • 02-29-2008, 08:21 AM
    Cat Sass
    Quote Originally Posted by Bigblockbill View Post
    How long would a wide band o2 actually last in the wet/humid exhaust stream. I have the autometer gauge for my Chevelle and would love to put it in the boat to tune it, but worry about the sensor dying in short order.
    The exhaust is dry all the way to the end where the water dumps into it, on my setup.



    I really appreciate all the input guys, it's helpfull. Keep it coming if theres any more
  • 02-28-2008, 11:16 AM
    Bigblockbill
    How long would a wide band o2 actually last in the wet/humid exhaust stream. I have the autometer gauge for my Chevelle and would love to put it in the boat to tune it, but worry about the sensor dying in short order.
  • 02-28-2008, 10:56 AM
    STV_Keith
    Quote Originally Posted by Cat Sass View Post
    The Dynojet is out for me because of its inacuracy in that comparason.
    Just be aware that for that test, they left the "gauge smoothing" turned up to 30% according to the tester after the article came out. Gauge smoothing is an adjustable option within the WideBand Commander software that basically slows down the readings to the gauge to keep the needle from twitching, especially right around stoich (lambda=1). If you turn the gauge smoothing down to "0", there is no latency, but the needle may quiver when right near lambda.

    FYI.
  • 02-28-2008, 09:08 AM
    Outlaw
    I bet you will be fine as long as you install them at 3 or 9 oclock position.

    My last boat had IMCO's but had stainless risers from manifold up.

    you can see where I had the O2 on the riser pipe on the left bank.

  • 02-28-2008, 08:42 AM
    Cat Sass
    Quote Originally Posted by Outlaw View Post
    Maybe I missed it.. but what exhaust system do you have?
    Sorry, Theyre IMCO powerflows with the water jacketed gattlin mufflers through the transom. When I was taking it apart, it seemed like it would be better to put the sensor in the riser, moving it closer to the higher heat, but I already sent the pipe off to Imco.

    Now I just have to figure out which set up to buy. The Autometer one is pretty nice, but I'm concerned about accuracy. It has no calibration feature like some of the others. I am going to call Autometer today and get some more info.

    The Dynojet is out for me because of its inacuracy in that comparason.

    Here's a pic of the exhaust
  • 02-27-2008, 09:44 PM
    Outlaw
    Quote Originally Posted by Cat Sass View Post
    Anyone have any comment on whether to put the bung in the riser or the pipe?
    Lemme try this..............

    Maybe I missed it.. but what exhaust system do you have?
  • 02-27-2008, 09:20 PM
    Brian
    The autometer setup comes with the standard 5-wire Bosch wideband sensor. The gauge has all the heater controls built into it, so it's a stand-alone wideband setup. It has scaleable outputs that can be used to connect to either a data logger, or a wideband input to an ECM for closed loop control. There are 3 different styles that have white faces and would look nice with the white Gaffrigs or whatever. I haven't installed/tested mine yet, so I can't comment on how well it works.
  • 02-26-2008, 04:03 PM
    Cat Sass
    Quote Originally Posted by STV_Keith View Post
    White bezel? Got a picture?
    Anyone have any comment on whether to put the bung in the riser or the pipe?
    Lemme try this..............
  • 02-26-2008, 03:16 PM
    STV_Keith
    Quote Originally Posted by Cat Sass View Post
    They are 2" white on white
    White bezel? Got a picture?
  • 02-26-2008, 02:59 PM
    Cat Sass
    Quote Originally Posted by STV_Keith View Post
    What do your in-dash gauges look like? White face, but what color bezel? What diameter gauges?

    Autometer Phantom Wide Band:




    Dynojet Wideband Commander:

    They are 2" white on white
  • 02-26-2008, 02:56 PM
    IMPATIENT 1
    Quote Originally Posted by STV_Keith View Post
    Just remember that the 3-wire sensors are narrow-band and very quickly lose accuracy as you move away from stoich in either direction. So, if you're trying to tune a forced induction setup at 11.7:1 for example, it won't be nearly as accurate as a wideband in the same application.
    yeah, i had to replace 1 last season when i got realllllly lean. price wasn't bad, 42 bucks for a new sensor. i've got bungs in each header but only run 1 full time, when i tune, i stick the other in and just switch connections to take a look at the other bank.
  • 02-26-2008, 02:52 PM
    STV_Keith
    Just remember that the 3-wire sensors are narrow-band and very quickly lose accuracy as you move away from stoich in either direction. So, if you're trying to tune a forced induction setup at 11.7:1 for example, it won't be nearly as accurate as a wideband in the same application.
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