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Topic Review (Newest First)

  • 12-01-2009, 03:39 PM
    River Rat 005
    Now that was nice to come back and tell us how it turned . Thanks

    Tim
  • 12-01-2009, 03:19 PM
    Evolrider

    EFI Solution

    It ended up being the fuel regulator, and the electric fuel pump. I replaced the regulator, and it still wouldnt start, and then the Fuel pump sounded like it was full of marbles. I replaced it, and I am back in business.

    It only took a few months to get back at it, but its done.

    Thanks everyone for there help.
  • 09-02-2009, 02:09 PM
    Evolrider
    Quote Originally Posted by Beer:30 View Post
    I don't know the ohms, but it is a 5V reference. WFO should be showing real close to 5V. 4.85 at LEAST. Idle will probably be .50 to .60
    Thanks...
  • 09-02-2009, 01:31 PM
    Beer:30
    Quote Originally Posted by Evolrider View Post
    How should my TPS be set up?? what should the resistance be at throttle closed, or wide open?
    Thanks.
    I don't know the ohms, but it is a 5V reference. WFO should be showing real close to 5V. 4.85 at LEAST. Idle will probably be .50 to .60
  • 09-02-2009, 01:29 PM
    Evolrider

    TPS install

    How should my TPS be set up?? what should the resistance be at throttle closed, or wide open?
    Thanks.
  • 08-12-2009, 09:37 PM
    ibelio
    also check fuel press regulator. diaphram breaks will suck fuel into engine to run rich/flood
  • 08-12-2009, 12:24 PM
    ap67et10
    Quote Originally Posted by dynoguy View Post
    AZSM is out of business..... I have a shop in Gilbert,AZ and I have all the necassary scanning equiptment to diagnose your hot rod. Let me know if I can help in any way. Mark c/o Speed Sports 480-539-4842
    I'm not suprised
  • 08-12-2009, 12:02 PM
    dynoguy
    AZSM is out of business..... I have a shop in Gilbert,AZ and I have all the necassary scanning equiptment to diagnose your hot rod. Let me know if I can help in any way. Mark c/o Speed Sports 480-539-4842
  • 08-07-2009, 08:13 PM
    Evolrider
    Quote Originally Posted by ap67et10 View Post
    I'm sorry to hear that didn't work out. Its tuff not having the tools easily available to get the right diagnosis. I was thinking about your situation and like beer said you may have a throttle issue, but it should get better as rpm goes up i would think, but maybe not. i would try one other thing, if i were you, before buying more things.

    Another thing that would cause this is if the coolant temp sensor went open circuit, now the biggest problem is that this could also have happened anywhere in the harness. if the coolant temp sensor goes open circuit or in the harness where the ecm is reading the coolant temp as open circuit then it essentially is reading -40 degrees. this would cause the ecm to command an extremely rich condition and would add more and more fuel as rpm and load increase. this would be very similar to what a bad map would do.

    the way to check this would be to pull the coolant temp sensor connector off and jump the two wires together. this should give the ecm an input that would relate to about 240-250 degrees, but should run, and run way better. this will tell you if you have a bad sensor only. if this doesn't do anything than it still could be in the harness and you would need to find the 2 wires that go directly into the ecm from the coolant temp sensor. you would then check continuity of the two right at the ecm when you have the wires jumped...or connected, but the readings should never go OL or OFL (depending on the meter) try this...it is free...well to check it is, and you wouldn't waste money if its not the problem. hope you get back on the water.

    AP
    Thanks for that piece of info... I would have never even thought of that. Once I get it home tomorrow, I will have everything I need to try to diagnose the problem. I was trying to get it going with the info that you guys have fed me, and a leathermen, and a Crescent wrench. Next time I go out, i will leave that extra 30 pack of Coors Light out of the back of the truck, so I have room for a tool kit.
    Thanks for all the info, and I will keep you posted of my findings.
  • 08-06-2009, 09:54 PM
    ap67et10
    Quote Originally Posted by Evolrider View Post
    Thanks for the info. I didnt check the fuel pressure, because everything I need is at home, but have replaced the MAP sensor, and that wasnt it. I was going to change the TPS sensor also, but the local dealer didnt have it in stock, and I am heading back home tomorrow. It will drive in idle with the gear engaged for about 3 minutes, then it just floods itself out. I am going to check the fuel pressure regulator when I get home, and check out the TPS. I spent about an hour with an oar today, trying to get the Hallet to the ramp.

    I'm sorry to hear that didn't work out. Its tuff not having the tools easily available to get the right diagnosis. I was thinking about your situation and like beer said you may have a throttle issue, but it should get better as rpm goes up i would think, but maybe not. i would try one other thing, if i were you, before buying more things.

    Another thing that would cause this is if the coolant temp sensor went open circuit, now the biggest problem is that this could also have happened anywhere in the harness. if the coolant temp sensor goes open circuit or in the harness where the ecm is reading the coolant temp as open circuit then it essentially is reading -40 degrees. this would cause the ecm to command an extremely rich condition and would add more and more fuel as rpm and load increase. this would be very similar to what a bad map would do.

    the way to check this would be to pull the coolant temp sensor connector off and jump the two wires together. this should give the ecm an input that would relate to about 240-250 degrees, but should run, and run way better. this will tell you if you have a bad sensor only. if this doesn't do anything than it still could be in the harness and you would need to find the 2 wires that go directly into the ecm from the coolant temp sensor. you would then check continuity of the two right at the ecm when you have the wires jumped...or connected, but the readings should never go OL or OFL (depending on the meter) try this...it is free...well to check it is, and you wouldn't waste money if its not the problem. hope you get back on the water.

    AP
  • 08-06-2009, 07:51 PM
    Evolrider
    Quote Originally Posted by Beer:30 View Post
    Have you checked your fuel pressure? That's usually first, is to make sure the pressure is where it's supposed to be.

    Speaking of which; check the vac line that goes to the fuel pressure regulator. If it was off, that would cause a lean-sputter-spit (vacuum leak) and also cause a rich condition.
    Thanks for the info. I didnt check the fuel pressure, because everything I need is at home, but have replaced the MAP sensor, and that wasnt it. I was going to change the TPS sensor also, but the local dealer didnt have it in stock, and I am heading back home tomorrow. It will drive in idle with the gear engaged for about 3 minutes, then it just floods itself out. I am going to check the fuel pressure regulator when I get home, and check out the TPS. I spent about an hour with an oar today, trying to get the Hallet to the ramp.
  • 08-05-2009, 08:55 PM
    Evolrider
    Quote Originally Posted by ap67et10 View Post
    ok, this is what you will need. look at the number on the top of your map sensor. there are 3 numbers then a gap then 4 numbers. the first 3 numbers tell you how many bars it reads. if it is: 039, 460, 883 or 876 its a 1 bar. if it is: 886, 012, 539, 609, 701 its a 2 bar. and the likely hood of you having a 3 bar is pretty much non-existant, so i won't even list those. I would guess you have the 039 map sensor. if you get another one you should be able to ask for a 91-96 chevy truck 5.7L map sensor and it should plug right it and work perfect....as long as this is your problem. it sounds to me like it is very likely this is your problem, and its pretty cheap and easy to just buy one to see if you can get it back on the water. should be around 50-60 bucks i would think. Hope it works out for you and hope this info helps.

    AP
    Thanks for all the info... I will have to go down to the marina in the morning, and get some numbers. I have my fingers and toes crossed that this is it. I will keep you posted.
    Thanks again...
  • 08-05-2009, 06:20 PM
    Beer:30
    Good advice. I doubt there would be anything other than a 1-bar, either. 3-bar would be for super/turbocharged applications. Have one on my Buick Grand National.
  • 08-05-2009, 05:48 PM
    ap67et10
    ok, this is what you will need. look at the number on the top of your map sensor. there are 3 numbers then a gap then 4 numbers. the first 3 numbers tell you how many bars it reads. if it is: 039, 460, 883 or 876 its a 1 bar. if it is: 886, 012, 539, 609, 701 its a 2 bar. and the likely hood of you having a 3 bar is pretty much non-existant, so i won't even list those. I would guess you have the 039 map sensor. if you get another one you should be able to ask for a 91-96 chevy truck 5.7L map sensor and it should plug right it and work perfect....as long as this is your problem. it sounds to me like it is very likely this is your problem, and its pretty cheap and easy to just buy one to see if you can get it back on the water. should be around 50-60 bucks i would think. Hope it works out for you and hope this info helps.

    AP
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