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Topic Review (Newest First)

  • 03-06-2008, 12:14 PM
    H20MOFO
    Thank you sir.
  • 03-06-2008, 11:24 AM
    Some Kind Of Monster
    Quote Originally Posted by H20MOFO View Post
    Where do I find this kit you speak of?
    I got mine at Lopers, but you can order one here:
    http://www.shopatron.com/product/par...er=D9010/591.0
  • 03-06-2008, 10:32 AM
    H20MOFO
    Where do I find this kit you speak of?
  • 03-06-2008, 10:09 AM
    Some Kind Of Monster
    Quote Originally Posted by Warp Speed View Post
    One thing to consider, is that if are not going to use the vaccuam advance it is definetly a good idea to lock the plate istead of just leaving it unhooked. Leaving it unhooked can lead to big time timing variation cyclinder to cylinder, and may add to the timing backing-up at higher rpm's. Will it be a big factor in your combo? proly not, but it is the best way to go with little or no added expense.
    I'd lock the whole thing (mechanical too) if it was me. I have a 11.3cr, 599ci on pump gas and it has no problem starting without a retard. And it has no advance (crank trigger set @ 34*) with a Pep boy's reman starter.
    Agreed, Mine is locked out too. You can buy a kit to lock it out (no welding necessary) for about $5.
  • 03-06-2008, 08:18 AM
    Warp Speed
    Quote Originally Posted by SmokinLowriderSS View Post
    It will likely run fine, and I sincerely doubt you will have any idea you "lost" any power with the 1-2 degrees of timing retard at 5,500 RPM.
    One thing to consider, is that if are not going to use the vaccuam advance it is definetly a good idea to lock the plate istead of just leaving it unhooked. Leaving it unhooked can lead to big time timing variation cyclinder to cylinder, and may add to the timing backing-up at higher rpm's. Will it be a big factor in your combo? proly not, but it is the best way to go with little or no added expense.
    I'd lock the whole thing (mechanical too) if it was me. I have a 11.3cr, 599ci on pump gas and it has no problem starting without a retard. And it has no advance (crank trigger set @ 34*) with a Pep boy's reman starter.
  • 03-06-2008, 04:56 AM
    SmokinLowriderSS
    Quote Originally Posted by H20MOFO View Post
    Thanks all , I think cfm ,and smokin are pretty much sayin what my guy was. I know that hei's aren't the shit but my motor won't see much past 5.5k in this boat. Oh, and it's not gm it's the one Chris had down in spam, I don't know if the gm thing matters???
    It will likely run fine, and I sincerely doubt you will have any idea you "lost" any power with the 1-2 degrees of timing retard at 5,500 RPM.
  • 03-05-2008, 08:45 PM
    obnoxious001
    The one Chris is selling is likely the same as we run in a dirt modified race car that I built an engine for. We ran the "budget" HEI since the young car owner was on a tight budget, but the thing ran all season at 7,000 rpm with no problem. Someone makes a plate the replaces the vacuum advance, but we ran it with the canister capped.
  • 03-05-2008, 06:25 PM
    H20MOFO
    Thanks all , I think cfm ,and smokin are pretty much sayin what my guy was. I know that hei's aren't the shit but my motor won't see much past 5.5k in this boat. Oh, and it's not gm it's the one Chris had down in spam, I don't know if the gm thing matters???
  • 03-05-2008, 06:00 PM
    sleekcrafter
    Quote Originally Posted by SmokinLowriderSS View Post
    It's my understanding that GM HEI's actually DO retard a few degrees beyond 4,000 RPM, not on purpose but as a side effect of the pickup switching/computer signal circuitry. A by-product of the exact way the HEI operates.

    The spark intensity also drops off the HEI, when getting into the upper rpm range.
  • 03-05-2008, 05:41 PM
    SmokinLowriderSS
    It's my understanding that GM HEI's actually DO retard a few degrees beyond 4,000 RPM, not on purpose but as a side effect of the pickup switching/computer signal circuitry. A by-product of the exact way the HEI operates.
  • 03-05-2008, 02:59 PM
    Bigblockbill
    Quote Originally Posted by H20MOFO View Post
    Thanks guys , sounds like no problem? For some reason he said that I could simply just not plug a line on the vac, but somehow it would be better to weld it in place with it partially on?
    I depends if you want the advanced locked out or want some advance for easy starting. If you remove the vacuum modulator and weld the arms of the mechanical advance then you have total advance all the time.

    I (like the guy you talked to) perfer to leave the vacuum parts all there and just not plug a vacuum line on to it. That way you still get the mechanical advance at RPM. I think the mechanical advance ends up being around 20 degrees if my memory serves me right.

    Then when you set timing on the motor, rev it up until it quits advancing (3K maybe) and set total timing to what ever you like...approx 36 degrees at sea level (I think) thus giving you at idle (with just the mech advance) around 15 deg. If you weld everything up than at idle it will obviously still be at 36 and you will have a more difficult time starting the motor when hot.
  • 03-05-2008, 01:09 PM
    H20MOFO
    Thanks guys , sounds like no problem? For some reason he said that I could simply just not plug a line on the vac, but somehow it would be better to weld it in place with it partially on?
  • 03-05-2008, 12:47 PM
    Bigblockbill
    I have welded more than one HEI... works just fine.

    The other thing is just don't hook up the vacuum. They seem to work well with just the mechanical advance, and then don't retard the timing at the upper RPMs on you.
  • 03-05-2008, 12:21 PM
    cfm
    Many HEI's retard some at higher rpms. They are not self adjusting. It just does it as a 'nature of the beast.'

    No biggie, just set / check your timing at a high rpm.
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