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Topic Review (Newest First)

  • 03-13-2008, 05:34 PM
    gn7
    Quote Originally Posted by cfm View Post
    IMHO, if a person has trouble tuning a carb on a dual or single plane intake, then that person will have more trouble with a tunnel ram.

    Engine Parts and correct installation is only part of the equation for driveability and hp. Tuning is the other part.
    In some respects I couldn't agree more. If you don't know your way around a carb, a tunnel ram may not be the place to learn, but I have torn my hair out trying to get single planes to work the way I'd like and have come to the conclusion that they are what they are, and trying to make them something else is is either insane, stupid, or at the best, very difficult for those more talented than I at getting them right. Everytime I give up and put on a T-Ram, I have to ask myself why I even tried with the single plane. But they are truly excellent for the intended usage, max horsepower UNDER THE HOOD. Thankfully, my boat doesn't have a hood.



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  • 03-13-2008, 05:02 PM
    cfm
    Quote Originally Posted by Some Kind Of Monster View Post
    Tunnel Ram it is!
  • 03-13-2008, 04:05 PM
    Some Kind Of Monster
    Quote Originally Posted by cfm View Post
    IMHO, if a person has trouble tuning a carb on a dual or single plane intake, then that person will have more trouble with a tunnel ram.

    Engine Parts and correct installation is only part of the equation for driveability and hp. Tuning is the other part.
    Tunnel Ram it is!
  • 03-13-2008, 03:42 PM
    cfm
    IMHO, if a person has trouble tuning a carb on a dual or single plane intake, then that person will have more trouble with a tunnel ram.

    Engine Parts and correct installation is only part of the equation for driveability and hp. Tuning is the other part.
  • 03-13-2008, 03:20 PM
    gn7
    Quote Originally Posted by Some Kind Of Monster View Post
    Just when I was leaning to the single plane you hit me with a left....
    Ah don't be like that I started off by saying I was the wrong person to ask, I am kinda bias. Don't think that because you have the current set up pretty much figured that it's a slam dunk when you put on the single plane.



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  • 03-13-2008, 06:26 AM
    PlacecraftTunnel
    Quote Originally Posted by Some Kind Of Monster View Post
    Nope,
    You wana help me decide? A friend offered me a polished Weiand TR with a Dooley scoop for $350. I already have the carbs but they need to be rebuilt. Or I can take the Dart single plane for about $300 and I have this fresh rebuilt 850 to slap on top. May I present, my dilema...
    Sure Billy, I'll help Pm your #
  • 03-13-2008, 02:54 AM
    turbo wog
    I had the same problem on my 850 carb, my idle was too high & it was dripping out of the booster sometimes, it was just on the edge of the idle circuit & main jet curcuit .when i blew my pv it ran way fat at idle ,missing etc. could have been because it was running past the idle curcuit being on the edge. . i set the idle down . here is some info that helped me, they also helped me boost refrence my 850 myself,i am running 2 power valves also.
    from the holley site:
    (The idle system supplies the air/fuel mixture to operate the engine
    at idle and low speeds. Fuel enters the main well through the
    main metering jet that is screwed into the metering block. Some
    of this fuel is then bled off to an idle well where it is mixed with
    air from the idle air bleed hole. The idle well leads directly to the
    idle discharge port and the idle transfer system where this air/fuel
    mixture is discharged.
    Most Holley Street Performance, O.E. Muscle Car, Competition
    and Pro-Series HP carburetors utilize idle mixture screws, located
    on the sides of the primary metering block. These control the volume
    of the pre-mixed air/fuel coming through the idle well.
    Turning the screws clockwise will “lean” the idle system.
    Conversely, turning the screws counterclockwise will “richen” the
    idle system.
    The initial adjustment is made by turning the mixture screws in a
    clockwise direction until they lightly bottom. Back them both off 1-
    1/2 turns. Connect a vacuum gauge to a carburetor vacuum
    port that will have access to full manifold vacuum at idle. Start
    the engine and allow it to warm up. Once the engine has
    warmed up and the idle stabilized, the choke should be disengaged.
    Adjust the idle mixture screws to obtain the highest vacuum
    reading. Each screw should be turned an equal amount so
    that the system is balanced.)

    From a holly rebuild book:
    (No more than .040 to .060 of transfer slot should be showing on the primary side. if opening the secondary idle stop doesn't corrrect the problem you may have to drill a 1/16" or 1/8" hole in the primary butterflies .)

    By the way, your power valves are 6.5 ,what is your vacuum? they say choose a pv that opens 2-in (hg) below your lowest steady cruise reading for cars & 2in(hg) below idle reading in gear for auto trans. on race engine with hi overlap cam, high idle deal hope the info helped.
  • 03-13-2008, 12:45 AM
    Some Kind Of Monster
    Quote Originally Posted by gn7 View Post
    you'd be asking the wrong guy here. I have no need for single plane except they are cheaper. Have yet to find one that I could get to work worth a shit without way more work than it was worth, only to find out I could make more power, over a wider range with a decent tunnel ram and do it way easier. You just know I opened a can of worms with that statement!
    But have just given up on them, just don't have the patients for em
    Just when I was leaning to the single plane you hit me with a left....
  • 03-12-2008, 11:24 PM
    gn7
    you'd be asking the wrong guy here. I have no need for single plane except they are cheaper. Have yet to find one that I could get to work worth a shit without way more work than it was worth, only to find out I could make more power, over a wider range with a decent tunnel ram and do it way easier. You just know I opened a can of worms with that statement!
    But have just given up on them, just don't have the patients for em



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  • 03-12-2008, 10:11 PM
    Some Kind Of Monster
    Quote Originally Posted by SmokinLowriderSS View Post
    The Dart and the 850, but it'll cost you at least 15 bling MPH.
    But I want it to be a 100mph Ebay boat, not a 90mph ebay boat
  • 03-12-2008, 08:19 PM
    SmokinLowriderSS
    Quote Originally Posted by Some Kind Of Monster View Post
    Nope,
    You wana help me decide? A friend offered me a polished Weiand TR with a Dooley scoop for $350. I already have the carbs but they need to be rebuilt. Or I can take the Dart single plane for about $300 and I have this fresh rebuilt 850 to slap on top. May I present, my dilema...
    The Dart and the 850, but it'll cost you at least 15 bling MPH.
  • 03-12-2008, 05:29 PM
    gn7
    The fact that it fixed your cruize is exactly what the PV is suppose to do. The fact that it fixed the idle isn't. If the power valve is wide ass open the main well/circuit can only see this as a jet increase of 6-10 sizes, the PV channel goes straight from the PV to the main well. So your saying that jetting up will affect your idle. Thats never happened to me. So I have to believe some thing else is affecting the idle when made the change, gasket leak or small pin hole in the diaphram?



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  • 03-12-2008, 11:46 AM
    Bigblockbill
    I think it has been very well explained but to add my recent experince to this. I just built a 350 ci motor for my chevelle and the car would not idle for beans with the same carb and set up that was on the stock 350 motor. It was always dead rich at idle and cruise on this new motor, and I tried every combo of jets I could imignine. Then thought of the PV and measured my vacuum. Turns out I had only 6 inches at idle and the PV was a 8.5 Bought some PVs lower than 6 and walla, brought the air fuel ratio both at idle and cruise right on in according to the wide band O2 meter!!
  • 03-12-2008, 10:18 AM
    Warp Speed
    Quote Originally Posted by BDMarine View Post
    Read it again. Thats when I started experimenting with Holley's..... and your right, and after over 30 years we know a lot more today. You guys have fun debating, I've got work to do.
    Thought maybe you could explain what was happening.

    Not really debating, just trying to explain what circuits do what. It is all pretty simple. Like what has been stated by a few during this, if the powervalve rating is affecting idle AFR there is something else wrong.......that's all.
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