[Question] Your thoughts on my teague xr drive slow to engage into forward
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Your thoughts on my teague xr drive slow to engage into forward

  1. #1
    Thrasher187 Steve Slostad's Avatar
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    Default Your thoughts on my teague xr drive slow to engage into forward

    My 28 daytona has a blown Teague 509 and a Teague platnum xr drive. I have been religious about changing the drive oil with Amsoil severe gear 75/110. Drive has around 50 hours with 80% of that under 65mph. lately it has taken longer and longer to engage, It drops into gear but it does not react for up to 6-7 seconds. From what I have read the cone clutch is the culprit. It does always eventually get there. Is this destroying my drive if I keep doing it? It does not slip at all even under 8 lbs of boost. Seems the remedy is a new upper gearset as it is a 1999 year drive. I adjusted the cables with the merc tool with no change. I have a diagram to pull it apart, should I to see if the shift fork is bent? I kind of want to see what is going on inside with my own eyes. I build motors and trannys , so I am not a newby to spinning a few wrenches. Or should I just ship it to Teague without taking a look? My thoughts are that I may be able to spot something obvious and save a whole rebuild. Any suggestions were to pay special attention? One thread suggested to another guy that his cone clutch was glazed over and scuffing it solved the problem.

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  3. #2
    Senior Member Hullshot's Avatar
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    Clutch and forward gear will need to be replaced to be 100%
    You could just try a clutch but it may not work correct for very long?
    The clutch fork is not culprit.

  4. #3
    Senior Member Smallblocksperry's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Steve Slostad View Post
    My 28 daytona has a blown Teague 509 and a Teague platnum xr drive. I have been religious about changing the drive oil with Amsoil severe gear 75/110. Drive has around 50 hours with 80% of that under 65mph. lately it has taken longer and longer to engage, It drops into gear but it does not react for up to 6-7 seconds. From what I have read the cone clutch is the culprit. It does always eventually get there. Is this destroying my drive if I keep doing it? It does not slip at all even under 8 lbs of boost. Seems the remedy is a new upper gearset as it is a 1999 year drive. I adjusted the cables with the merc tool with no change. I have a diagram to pull it apart, should I to see if the shift fork is bent? I kind of want to see what is going on inside with my own eyes. I build motors and trannys , so I am not a newby to spinning a few wrenches. Or should I just ship it to Teague without taking a look? My thoughts are that I may be able to spot something obvious and save a whole rebuild. Any suggestions were to pay special attention? One thread suggested to another guy that his cone clutch was glazed over and scuffing it solved the problem.
    im a heavy equipment mechanic and all i did was print the manual online and pulled mine right apart after making some custom spanners to get it apart, they are pretty easy to build, and extremely easy to tear down.

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  6. #4
    It's what we do BDMarine's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Smallblocksperry View Post
    im a heavy equipment mechanic and all i did was print the manual online and pulled mine right apart after making some custom spanners to get it apart, they are pretty easy to build, and extremely easy to tear down.
    To properly build an XR you need more than just a spanner. The XR must be properly shimmed to get the proper backlash when gears are replaced. You need special tools to lock fwd and rev, and check backlash on both. The shims that were used with the old gears rarely are correct for new ones.
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  7. #5
    Thrasher187 Steve Slostad's Avatar
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    Flat top marine suggested the cable may have stretched from leaving it in gear and shutting the motor off at wot ,then pulling it into neutral not running. doing plug checks, That is something I did a bunch of times until I bucked up and bought a air/fuel gauge and dialed the jetting in. I am going to put a new cable in it and try again.

  8. #6
    Senior Member Teague Custom Marine's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by BDMarine View Post
    To properly build an XR you need more than just a spanner. The XR must be properly shimmed to get the proper backlash when gears are replaced. You need special tools to lock fwd and rev, and check backlash on both. The shims that were used with the old gears rarely are correct for new ones.
    B&D is correct on this topic. Unlikely to be a cable issue. Take the cable off the bracket and shift it by hand, which will give you maximum cable pull. There will likely be no improvement.

    It most likely needs a clutch and forward gear, maybe a pinion gear. You may be able to get away with a clutch and swapping the forward and reverse gears for a budget fix.

    JT

  9. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by Teague Custom Marine View Post
    B&D is correct on this topic. Unlikely to be a cable issue. Take the cable off the bracket and shift it by hand, which will give you maximum cable pull. There will likely be no improvement.

    It most likely needs a clutch and forward gear, maybe a pinion gear. You may be able to get away with a clutch and swapping the forward and reverse gears for a budget fix.

    JT

    Drive has 50hrs??? Do these drives have any warranty??? Pretty stout piece from what i'm told for this to happen..... JJ

  10. #8
    Thrasher187 Steve Slostad's Avatar
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    No warranty . This is my first real performance boat and it is a cat, so I am VERY easy on it. All but a hand full of times I have had my family onboard including 1 or more 6 year olds, so speeds were nowhere above 65mph, just enough to get going. Drive had 10 hours on it when I bought it ,documented by Teague and the previous owner was a spare no expense kinda guy that took extremely good care of things. All my buddies that have big HP cats said to plan on at least one drive per year, so I never accelerated hard or abused it. Shifting it out of gear with it not running during jetting runs is the only thing that makes any sense as far as what I could have done wrong as an operator. I saved all the drive oil in clear jugs from when I changed it every month and nothing has settled at the bottom and it is not burnt or dirty. I just have a hard time wrapping my head around the gears or bearings going bad. Our weather is just starting to turn. I should be able to put it in the water by next weekend. I am going to try shifting it by hand with the cable. Fingers crossed. I will post my results.

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