[Question] pics of drive gears and cone clutch that are slow to engage into forward
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pics of drive gears and cone clutch that are slow to engage into forward

  1. #1
    Thrasher187 Steve Slostad's Avatar
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    Default (Fixed) Bravo XR drive gears and cone clutch that are slow to engage into forward

    I have a 28 foot eliminator with a single Teague 850 blower motor. My Teague Platinum bravo xr drive began taking a longer and longer amount of time to engage into forward. Eventually it does engage and does not slip even under full boost. It takes about 20 seconds to engage now , even after a new cable, and adjustment. So I tore it down and there was no bearing or gear failure but the cone clutch is not engaging into forward on the bench either. When I compress the two gears together enough to put both springs up onto the ramps and let it go while pulling it into reverse it holds tight. when I do the same and push it into forward it never catches. The inside of the gear looks fine with no visible galling and just a small ridge on the bottom of forward and a bit of polishing on the cone. when I compare the two gears everything looks decent, and eyeballing it the clutch sits exactly the same amount into each gear and, everything I compare looks the same. I am going to my machinist today to have him measure things.Any ideas? Did it just wear out smoothly and not tear anything up? Is it normal to have a drive just stop engaging right away, and that is typical? Does anyone have a cone clutch they want to sell so I can try to replace it and see if it helps?
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    Last edited by Steve Slostad; 06-28-2014 at 11:35 AM.

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  3. #2
    Thrasher187 Steve Slostad's Avatar
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    more pics
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  4. #3
    Thrasher187 Steve Slostad's Avatar
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    forward
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  6. #4
    It's what we do BDMarine's Avatar
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    I don't like the way the cone clutch looks in the last picture
    http://www.performanceboats.com//signaturepics/sigpic837_1.gif
    B & D Marine Performance
    El Monte, Ca.

  7. #5
    Thrasher187 Steve Slostad's Avatar
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    Me either< I would like to replace it before I send the whole drive in for a rebuild

  8. #6
    Senior Member Hullshot's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by BDMarine View Post
    I don't like the way the cone clutch looks in the last picture
    X2
    Many flatten ridges on the inner part of cone as well as the far out side section.
    Last edited by Hullshot; 05-08-2014 at 03:22 PM.

  9. #7
    Thrasher187 Steve Slostad's Avatar
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    I got a new cone clutch from a guy on OffshoreOnly and I am waiting for my new bearings from Teague ( the two flat ones that go under the gears) and I will put it back together and post my results. Someone told me they should be replaced every time the drive is apart. Any suggestions for putting it back together? I know I need to align the marks with one plus and one minus mars on the gears. Anything else should I look for, or pay special attention to?

  10. #8
    Thrasher187 Steve Slostad's Avatar
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    Someone suggested I take some crocus cloth ( sandpaper) to the inside of the gear, but I think a smooth surface will provide more grip than a scuffed surface because it will provide more area. Any thoughts on that?

  11. #9
    Thrasher187 Steve Slostad's Avatar
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    Default Fixed !!!

    Alright guys. I got it figured out, finally. I ordered a new clutch and it still did not work right. I messed with it for hours and asked several forums. No usable cure. So I took it to my genius machinist to look at it. Took him a minute to grasp what the cone clutch was and how it worked,then he figured it out. I thought I would post the fix for others that have no bad teeth but have a gear that doesn't grab right away. What he did was looked at the old clutch and saw wear on the inside bevel where the spring climbs onto the clutch. The gear had worn just enough of the inside where the cone clutch grabs that it was allowing the clutch to bottom out on the small flat thrust bearing that rides on the inside of the gear for the spring to ride on instead of contacting the cone to gear bevel. What we needed was to allow the clutch to drop just slightly further down so the cone area was contacting fully again. The clutch was hardened so he did not want to cut it.So we took that small flat bearing the spring spins on out and threw the gear in the lathe where he used a aerospace grade carbide and deepened the pocket for the bearing .005 just enough that the clutch contacted in the cone area again instead of bottoming on that bearing. Again it did not need much, just enough to make up for where the bevel in the gear opened up from wear. I swapped the gears so that was the reverse gear instead of forward with new large gear thrust bearings where the gear rides on the case and the top cap and Amsoil severe gear 75/110. PROBLEM SOLVED! Took it out yesterday and it Shifted perfectly,where it would take 10 seconds to engage before.
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  12. #10
    Senior Member Hullshot's Avatar
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    Yes you may have thought you found a fix for the problem. The clutch spring will fully recess into the cone clutch. For what you said happened the center of clutch would have to be contacting the clutch spring thrust bearing to hold it up, not likely possible. As mentioned on a prior thread with same issue you need to replace the clutch and gear to be 100%. You likely fixed the problem when you put the gears in opposite with the new clutch. As you said it took 10 seconds for forward to engage not reverse.
    Last edited by Hullshot; 05-19-2014 at 01:00 PM.

  13. #11
    Thrasher187 Steve Slostad's Avatar
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    The bottom of the cone clutch was definitely bottoming on the thrust bearing. I swapped the gears back and forth and tried every conceivable combination and it still slipped with the clutch engaged in that gear. If you can see in the pics it is visible that the very inside of the thrust bearing is scored as well as the bottom of the cone clutch in the center. I know it may be hard to see , but trust me the gear had worn and opened up just enough that it allowed the clutch to bottom out and lowering the thrust bearing for the garter spring just enough to allow the cone clutch to seat again was the fix. With it on the bench it would not grab , then after machining it , it grabbed. I realize not everyone will have the ability to perform a repair like this but to the guy like me that is able to do it. Even after asking for weeks for any suggestions on several forums and getting no viable solution. I thought it would be a good idea to post my working fix.
    Last edited by Steve Slostad; 06-28-2014 at 11:34 AM.

  14. #12
    Thrasher187 Steve Slostad's Avatar
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    I have had the boat out several times now and it shifts perfectly still. Forward and reverse both engage fully and immediately

  15. #13
    Thrasher187 Steve Slostad's Avatar
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    Default update

    Ok guys , I have had the boat out all day over 10 times now and it still shifts flawlessly.

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