chromeing props !
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chromeing props !

  1. #1
    InsaneInjun InsaneInjun's Avatar
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    Default chromeing props !

    i know not to run a chrome prop on a race boat but does it hurt to chrome a all steel one for a v-drive cruiser ?where's Tom Bently ?

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    Seems like the reasons to not chrome a prop would be valid for any application.

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    Some guys never learn. bocco's Avatar
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    I've got a brand new prop from Tom sitting on my workbench. He strongly recomended against chrome plating. I will probably have this one done with electroless nickel. I had steel prop that was chrome plated and the problem I had was the chrome chipping easily when I just touched a soft bottom spot. The nickel seems to hold up pretty good if the shop applies it correctly. Make sure the prop is clean.

    Gary

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    InsaneInjun InsaneInjun's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by bocco View Post
    I've got a brand new prop from Tom sitting on my workbench. He strongly recomended against chrome plating. I will probably have this one done with electroless nickel. I had steel prop that was chrome plated and the problem I had was the chrome chipping easily when I just touched a soft bottom spot. The nickel seems to hold up pretty good if the shop applies it correctly. Make sure the prop is clean.

    Gary
    It's just hard to keep up with an all steel one,(in raw form).

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    Some guys never learn. bocco's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by InsaneInjun View Post
    It's just hard to keep up with an all steel one,(in raw form).
    Agreed. My cruiser stays in the water for 3 or 4 days at a time. And I just don't want to crawl underneath at the ramp with WD-40 and a scotchbright pad. I'm going to start looking into platers to try electroless nickel.

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    InsaneInjun InsaneInjun's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by bocco View Post
    Agreed. My cruiser stays in the water for 3 or 4 days at a time. And I just don't want to crawl underneath at the ramp with WD-40 and a scotchbright pad. I'm going to start looking into platers to try electroless nickel.
    let me know what you find out.thanks for your time !

  9. #7
    InsaneInjun InsaneInjun's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by bocco View Post
    Agreed. My cruiser stays in the water for 3 or 4 days at a time. And I just don't want to crawl underneath at the ramp with WD-40 and a scotchbright pad. I'm going to start looking into platers to try electroless nickel.
    let me know what you find out.thanks for your time !

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    Quote Originally Posted by InsaneInjun View Post
    It's just hard to keep up with an all steel one,(in raw form).
    I made it a habit the minute I pull out of the water, I reach under and squirt the hell out of it and let it drip, when I take it off I wipe it with a rag with WD and put it away, no rust at all and no hassles. I would never chrome any hardware that's under the boat, it hides cracks!..

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    Senior Member Baja Big Dog's Avatar
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    have you ever seen a chromed prop? Probably a reason for that..

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    Anytime you chrome or electroplate in acid bath a steel part over 30 RC Rockwell in hardness you will get Hydogen embrittlement if not baked at 325 degrees for 3 hours.
    I have seen two props that had hydrogen embrittlement reaction from extreme use. A hundred or more of small cracks around the thin leading edge on each blade.----PALHAL

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    Some guys never learn. bocco's Avatar
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    So here's some pics of my cruiser prop that I had nickle plated. This is not electroless but basic nickle plating. It looks pretty close to chrome but is not as shiney. Remember before you bash me about plating a prop that this is a 400hp cruiser that will never see more 500hp if that. I had it done by Modesto Plating and Powder coating. We'll see how it looks in September at the end of the season.



    Last edited by bocco; 04-02-2008 at 09:33 PM.

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    When a 3/B is chromed it goes out of balance big time also. Tried to hold it level and on end in the plating bath and it still goes out of balance. A 2/B will keep its balance better in a chrome bath if it lays flat long ways with the anodes on each side. If a prop is held with a blade lower in the bath than the others it will get more chrome on the deep blade.
    The best I have seen is hard chrome in a circle tank laying flat in the bath with the anodes even with each blade so the chrome goes on equal to each blade.
    The people that hard chrome usually have the ovens for baking to get rid of hydogen embrittlement.
    The tools in your tool box are hard chromed and take a lot of abuse but over many years will still start rusting.---PALHAL

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    Some guys never learn. bocco's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by palhal View Post
    When a 3/B is chromed it goes out of balance big time also. Tried to hold it level and on end in the plating bath and it still goes out of balance. A 2/B will keep its balance better in a chrome bath if it lays flat long ways with the anodes on each side. If a prop is held with a blade lower in the bath than the others it will get more chrome on the deep blade.
    The best I have seen is hard chrome in a circle tank laying flat in the bath with the anodes even with each blade so the chrome goes on equal to each blade.
    The people that hard chrome usually have the ovens for baking to get rid of hydogen embrittlement.
    The tools in your tool box are hard chromed and take a lot of abuse but over many years will still start rusting.---PALHAL
    So according to the guy that actually does the plating. By only nickle plating and avoiding the chrome and the polishing it would maintain the balancing. If I had a prop guy close by it would be interesting to check.

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    One time I had a 2/B copper plated, good balance. Buffed the copper, good balance. Nickle plated, good balance. Then came the chrome, bad balance.--PALHAL

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