496 HO oil psi
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496 HO oil psi

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    Default 496 HO oil psi

    I've noticed on my last trip out , My oil psi was lower then normal so I think Im rite @ 20 psi at idle and 30 psi @ high idle or 4500rpm.
    This is my 1st year runing full synthetic oil 10w30 , ? is this the wrong oil should I be runing straight 30 wt or do I have other issue's the engine
    is a bone stock 496 ho with 430 hrs any help would be great.

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    New here Beer:30's Avatar
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    Next time out, I can take pictures of mine at 23-25 at idle in gear. 45-48 at 4000-4500. It's a 2001, but I don't think there were any changes to the oil pressure setups (pumps, springs). I am also 10/30 Mobil1. Maybe your oil cooler is plugged with sand (water side)? I'm at 340 hours with 200 of that on Mobil1. Dunno what to tell ya.

    Quote Originally Posted by Blown496 View Post
    I've noticed on my last trip out , My oil psi was lower then normal so I think Im rite @ 20 psi at idle and 30 psi @ high idle or 4500rpm.
    This is my 1st year runing full synthetic oil 10w30 , ? is this the wrong oil should I be runing straight 30 wt or do I have other issue's the engine
    is a bone stock 496 ho with 430 hrs any help would be great.
    Quote Originally Posted by gn7 View Post
    EFI is the wave of the future. There can be no denying it. Electronics have been on the leading edge of our entire lives. Not only os the magneto dead, but the standard issue CDI is wavering. Its all about total fuel, air AND spark control. Anybody that thinks its not has their head up their ass.


    2001 SleekCraft 30' Heritage SSB, open-bow mid-cuddy. 496HO / Bravo-I.

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    You are getting up there on the hours, I would bump up to the 15w50 it will give you better protection. Your analog gauges are not always accuate, you need to put a scan tool on to check for sure. Remember your engine is working incredibly hard at 4-5k uphill, try that in your tow vehicle for 10 mins and you will think it's going to blow!

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    Senior Member SoldHondaBoughtHondo's Avatar
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    Does oil pressure decrease as rpm increases at any time? even a little?
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    Quote Originally Posted by Sold honda.bought hondo View Post
    Does oil pressure decrease as rpm increases at any time? even a little?
    Pressure should go up to the relief-valve-spring setting. Some people shim the spring with washers to increase pressure. Either way, it will go up to that pressure and start "relieving itself". It should stabilize, but not decrease UNLESS you start out with cold oil and are cruising along while it warms up. When the oil gets thinner, it will drop some pressure.

    If you drop SIGNIFICANT pressure, you are either foaming the oil at RPM / OR / the oil is staying in the top end and you are uncovering the oil pump pickup.
    Quote Originally Posted by gn7 View Post
    EFI is the wave of the future. There can be no denying it. Electronics have been on the leading edge of our entire lives. Not only os the magneto dead, but the standard issue CDI is wavering. Its all about total fuel, air AND spark control. Anybody that thinks its not has their head up their ass.


    2001 SleekCraft 30' Heritage SSB, open-bow mid-cuddy. 496HO / Bravo-I.

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    Quote Originally Posted by KONK View Post
    You are getting up there on the hours, I would bump up to the 15w50 it will give you better protection. Your analog gauges are not always accuate, you need to put a scan tool on to check for sure. Remember your engine is working incredibly hard at 4-5k uphill, try that in your tow vehicle for 10 mins and you will think it's going to blow!
    A water-cooled, oil-cooled pickup/SUV engine will easily run 4000 hours with out needing a rebuild.

    This engine works TWICE as hard - let's say - but is still just as stable on temps (has closed cooling AND oil cooler). So, there should be no reason, other than neglect, that a stock roller-cammed coil-per-cylinder distributorless EFI'd motor shouldn't run 2000 hrs without need for hard-parts. Other than maybe valvesprings since these are weakies in the beginning.
    Quote Originally Posted by gn7 View Post
    EFI is the wave of the future. There can be no denying it. Electronics have been on the leading edge of our entire lives. Not only os the magneto dead, but the standard issue CDI is wavering. Its all about total fuel, air AND spark control. Anybody that thinks its not has their head up their ass.


    2001 SleekCraft 30' Heritage SSB, open-bow mid-cuddy. 496HO / Bravo-I.

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    It's what we do BDMarine's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Blown496 View Post
    I've noticed on my last trip out , My oil psi was lower then normal so I think Im rite @ 20 psi at idle and 30 psi @ high idle or 4500rpm.
    This is my 1st year runing full synthetic oil 10w30 , ? is this the wrong oil should I be runing straight 30 wt or do I have other issue's the engine
    is a bone stock 496 ho with 430 hrs any help would be great.
    The old saying "if you think something is wrong, then something's wrong" applies here. It can be as simple as the gauge sender or as severe as a rod bearing going away. Either way, your oil pressure reading is not right and you need to figure out what changed. A band aid of thicker oil is not the way to fix it. Something changed.... Figure out what the problem is before something serious happens. I would start by removing the oil pressure sender and installing a mechanical gauge. If is back to a "normal" range and increases with rpm, replace the sender with the proper one for the guage range you have and go boating. If it doesn't get better it is something more serious.
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    Quote Originally Posted by BDMarine View Post
    The old saying "if you think something is wrong, then something's wrong" applies here. It can be as simple as the gauge sender or as severe as a rod bearing going away. Either way, your oil pressure reading is not right and you need to figure out what changed. A band aid of thicker oil is not the way to fix it. Something changed.... Figure out what the problem is before something serious happens. I would start by removing the oil pressure sender and installing a mechanical gauge. If is back to a "normal" range and increases with rpm, replace the sender with the proper one for the guage range you have and go boating. If it doesn't get better it is something more serious.
    I am not suggesting that he put thicker oil in and it will fixx
    the problem.
    Yes it is important to verify the oil pressure, the 496 is a dual sender engine. The analog sender is being use for the dash gauges, it also has a digital that the computer reads you must hook a scan tool to read this sender. If there is still any ???? you can use a mechanical gauge to verify.

    Something change!!! Yes, something change he did not say he heard a rod knock. He said he has a 496 with over 400 hours and he switched to a thinner oil than recommended by the manufacturer and now his oil pressure has dropped.
    Is this common practice??
    recommended oil 20w/40


    Beer30: When or if you ever see 2000hrs on your 496. Beers on me!!!

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    Thanks everone have heard some good info so far , just some info from my end everthing seems to be running fine at this time I've have not noticed any loss of power and heard any noises at this time , i'm just worried about the pressure it may be just a guage or a bad sender i'm hoping but you dont know my luck , and more info would be great /
    Thanks

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    Quote Originally Posted by KONK View Post
    Beer30: When or if you ever see 2000hrs on your 496. Beers on me!!!
    Exactly! Do you realize how LONG it would take to get 2000hrs on one?? With a high season being 100hrs - you do the math.
    Quote Originally Posted by gn7 View Post
    EFI is the wave of the future. There can be no denying it. Electronics have been on the leading edge of our entire lives. Not only os the magneto dead, but the standard issue CDI is wavering. Its all about total fuel, air AND spark control. Anybody that thinks its not has their head up their ass.


    2001 SleekCraft 30' Heritage SSB, open-bow mid-cuddy. 496HO / Bravo-I.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Beer:30 View Post
    Exactly! Do you realize how LONG it would take to get 2000hrs on one?? With a high season being 100hrs - you do the math.
    The offer still stands !! Have fun, be safe, It's all good.

    Here's some math: Over 2500 post, less time at the computer = more time on the water!!

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    Quote Originally Posted by KONK View Post
    I am not suggesting that he put thicker oil in and it will fixx
    the problem.
    Yes it is important to verify the oil pressure, the 496 is a dual sender engine. The analog sender is being use for the dash gauges, it also has a digital that the computer reads you must hook a scan tool to read this sender. If there is still any ???? you can use a mechanical gauge to verify.

    Something change!!! Yes, something change he did not say he heard a rod knock. He said he has a 496 with over 400 hours and he switched to a thinner oil than recommended by the manufacturer and now his oil pressure has dropped.
    Is this common practice??
    recommended oil 20w/40
    My post was not meant to offend you, i'm sorry if it did. As a Certified Premier Mercruiser Dealership I am aware of the sensors and their functions. I was only offering a way to the original poster as to how he could verify if he had a problem or not on his own. Also I was hoping he wouldn't just change oil in hopes of it fixing his problem. Although 10/30 synthetic is not what I would recommend, it still should be higher than 30 at 4500. That raises a red flag.

    I will join you and Beer30 when any 496 in a boat reaches 2000 hours... and still runs!
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    Quote Originally Posted by BDMarine View Post
    I will join you and Beer30 when any 496 in a boat reaches 2000 hours... and still runs!
    Your proof as to why one won't?
    Quote Originally Posted by gn7 View Post
    EFI is the wave of the future. There can be no denying it. Electronics have been on the leading edge of our entire lives. Not only os the magneto dead, but the standard issue CDI is wavering. Its all about total fuel, air AND spark control. Anybody that thinks its not has their head up their ass.


    2001 SleekCraft 30' Heritage SSB, open-bow mid-cuddy. 496HO / Bravo-I.

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    So if 10/30 synthetic isn't would some would recommend what do you suggest I run. ?

    Thanks

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