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Paint & Detailing questions....

136K views 272 replies 78 participants last post by  Billy-B 
#1 · (Edited by Moderator)
If I can be of any help let me know. :)bulb
 
#76 ·
Thanks Billy, I'm going to stick to my plan then. One more thing, I'm also getting ready to spray my brothers new engine block. I'm using the same paint I sprayed his boat with, a House of Kolor BC/CC. I went to get an etching primer for the block and the guy told me to just spray the paint directly on the engine. I don't feel comfortable doing this, in the past I have always used a zinc primer, but you can't get these anymore in our county. What do you recomend? Thanks Again Johnny P
 
#77 ·
Sorry man my computer was acting up.... I have sprayed right over the bare block and I have used the DP epoxy from PPG. Both out comes have been the same. So it's your call. I know you know that the block has to be spotless so anything goes after that...
 
#79 ·
Billy ; Quick question.
If I am painting My boat a two color scheme with the bottom and sides a blue up to the rails and the top of the deck white. Is there any order to which color to spray first?
should the deck be painted first and then the blue or vise versa? Thank's.....Hal
 
#80 ·
I work from the top down. It's easier to mask the deck to make sure overspray doesn't leak thru. Overspray will travel downward most of the time and can circle under and overspray the underneath / sides unless you wrap it completely....Just my .02
 
#81 ·
So Billy;
I plan on spraying a sealer.When using two colors should I use a sandable sealer instead of non sanding?
When I spray the white deck Should I mask off the dividing line between the white and blue or just spray the white on the deck area alitle larger and then mask the divition between the white and blue , mask the deck and spray the blue rail and sides? ,...Hal
 
#82 ·
I'd use a sandable sealer so when I got to the sides I could scuff and make sure it was completely ready for paint. I would also mask the sides. If your going with the dark blue color like the sides it would take a bit more paint to cover over the white overspray then covering a dark colored sealer. Did you cap the boat or are you still running the molding?
 
#85 ·
Yea I was thinking of striping with a silver or gray where the blue and white meet. The two colors will meet on the top deck ,just inside the rail, similar to this ,without the graffics and a much smaller stipe.

.

Is there no way to not have to stripe it?

Billy , Is it ok to spray the sandable sealer and then let it sit for a period say a few weeks ,before spraying the paint?
 

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#86 ·
Yes you can do that. I will usually spray a tack coat again before I spray the color just to rejuvanate the sealer. But you don't have too. I like pinstriping between the colors as it looks finished to me. I was just asking to see how far up you were rolling the blue. If you roll the blue alittle in from the cap edge you can then clean the line up (knock down the edge) so you can't see where the two colors come together thru the pinstripe.
 
#87 ·
Billy:
Can You tell me based on the picture above How much sprayable material, of the blue and white, It might take to spray that type of paint scheme for an 18' hull?
The blue will be on the entire sides ,transom. and rail. White on the top deck only.
Also how much sealer to spray the entire hull except the bottom? and what color sealer would You recomend for those colors? would I have to use a dark sealer for the blue and a light or white sealer for the white or can I get away with the same color sealer for both blue and white?
The blue is the color in My avatar. Sory for all the questions. I do greatly appreciate You'r time.....Hal
 
#88 ·
Believe it or not the type (brand) does make a difference on how much. Talk to your jobber (supplier) and see what they recommend. If you buy the paint by the qt it will cost more then by the gallon. So if you think it will take you more then 2qt's I would buy the gallon so I had some touch up plus a discounted price. Only you know how the blue covered. Just looking at it i'd say 2 to 3 qts of blue over a dark sealer. White 2 qt's. And you could use the same sealer for both that way you know that you have total coverage (even). Painting white over a white sealer makes it kinda tough. At least at my age :D
 
#90 ·
Billy....wondering if you have time to paint my boat. Need top & bottom painted solid colors, nothing fancy. Just finished the trailer. Will try to post a pic.........robert in Ojai.

Give me a call Robert (909-982-8555) and we'll set it up.
 
#94 ·
Hey Billy or Todd,

The deck of my 04 CP doesn't have as glossy of a look as I would like it to. I have waxed the shit out of it and in certain light it just has a haze to it wich its had since new. Do I need to have the deck clear coated and rebuffed? What are my options?

Thanks,
Scott
 
#96 ·
Glad to see Todd could help you out "Dogballs". I can't believe that none of you guys have any projects going on this summer...Or are all of you guys on top of it and don't need any help?:)hand
 
#97 ·
Primer selection

I am hoping you can recommend a primer for me. I have done a repair in the glass and capped the boat. There are currently what looks to be 2 layers on top of the gel. I just want to seal over what is there and put a new BC/CC in red on top. This will be my 1st real paint job (I have shot some panels years ago for my dad) so user freindly would be nice. Also, this does not need to be "show" quality I just want it to look "good".
 
#98 ·
I am hoping you can recommend a primer for me. I have done a repair in the glass and capped the boat. There are currently what looks to be 2 layers on top of the gel. I just want to seal over what is there and put a new BC/CC in red on top. This will be my 1st real paint job (I have shot some panels years ago for my dad) so user freindly would be nice. Also, this does not need to be "show" quality I just want it to look "good".
Evercoat has a real nice primer that is user friendly and sands real nice. Should be available at your local autobody supply store.
 
#99 ·
What are the pros and/or cons or doing the entire boat in a Single Stage ACRYLIC URETHANE, vs just doing the bottom in Single Stage and the top as BC/CC? I know the gloss would be better with BC/CC how about durability? Or is Acrylic Enamel the way to go?

Also for an 18ft boat would 1 gallon be enough to do the entire boat in single stage, or should I get more?

 
#101 ·
i have a 07 deckboat with bright gelcoat , orange red silver, with pearls... If i wanted to add some airbrushing graphics to the gelcoat what are my options??????? thanx in advance
You'd have to clear the whole area or the airbrush work would eventually come off.
 
#102 ·
Billy ,
Can You tell Me what temprature is to warm for spraying base clear in an outside make shift spray booth?
How does the temprature effect the spraying of paint....Hal
 
#103 ·
If the temp gets above 90 I bail and will come in the early am and do it then. If you must go for it use a slow temp hardner / reducer and allow time in between coats so you allow the solvent to escape. If you recoat to quick & lock the solvents in there you will wind up with solvent popping. Lools like the measles but smaller. You won't be able to color sand them out either. All color sanding does is open them up and then when you polish the boat you fill the holes with compound and it looks like white overspray.....Don't ask how I know. Chalk it up to experience... VERY COSTLY
 
#104 ·
Hard water spot removal

Was wondering the best way to remove water spots, or is the ol' vinager & water trick the way to go ? Its a painted boat, not gelcoat. I used some crappy wax before a 4-day trip, and now you can see water spots if you look at it from certian angles. I tried a cleaner wax but it didn't work. I really don't want to have to break out the buffer again.....

Also, what wax will work best for painted boats ? Thanks for any help
 
#106 ·
Was wondering the best way to remove water spots, or is the ol' vinager & water trick the way to go ? Its a painted boat, not gelcoat. I used some crappy wax before a 4-day trip, and now you can see water spots if you look at it from certian angles. I tried a cleaner wax but it didn't work. I really don't want to have to break out the buffer again.....

Also, what wax will work best for painted boats ? Thanks for any help
I have gotten them off with the old standard vinegar and when they are really baked on there I break out the buffer. Saves time in the long run.
 
#107 ·
Depends on the exsisting floors. If the wood looks nice when wet and there aren't any nicks or deep chips you can sand the floor and reflow coat. Colorsand and rub out. If the floors need alot of work (stained / delamanation). Stringers need attention also. Your better off to veneer the floor after repairs are done. Gel coat the stringers and then flow coat everything. Lot of labor hrs but the end result is worth it.
 
#108 ·
HVLP gravity feed and air preasure

Billy I have a devillbiss HVLP gun and they say to set preasure at the gun at 23psi. What should the preasure on the compressor regulator, or on the line be set at?

Also Very important How should the fluid control valve be set(how much paint comming out) for a base clear? Do You have any tips for setting up an HVLP gun? Thank's.....Hal
 
#109 ·
How long to wait

Billy;
Painting a two color base/clear, how long do I wait after spraying one color, before I mask off to spray the next color?(Blue sides and rail/White top deck)
How long after spraying Base, can I spray the Clear? Thanks....Hal
 
#110 ·
I am going to be colorsanding the original gel coat on an 82 campbell and I have a couple of questions. I assume this is done by hand: start with 1000 grit, move to 1500 and finish with 2000, use lots of water with a bit of washing liquid. But do I use a sanding block? a sponge or what? Do I go in long straight strokes like block sanding or do I make circles like polishing or buffing. Or does it matter? I assume I am just taking off the oxidised surface layer and leaving a smooth surface for buffing, so I don't need to remove very much.
Thanks, Michael
 
#112 ·
Spraying a heavy metal flake

Hey Billy, First off i just want to sa y thanks for all of your input on this forum, I have learned so much just reading the input from you and the other members.
I am getting ready to spray my 77 Sanger bubble deck with a heavy "Old School" flake, and ive been told that I need a specific gun to lay to fake and I've also been told that I only need a different tip for my gun. What do you recomend I use?
 
#113 ·
Hey Billy, First off i just want to sa y thanks for all of your input on this forum, I have learned so much just reading the input from you and the other members.
I am getting ready to spray my 77 Sanger bubble deck with a heavy "Old School" flake, and ive been told that I need a specific gun to lay to fake and I've also been told that I only need a different tip for my gun. What do you recomend I use?
Your taking on a big task my friend. I have a special gun that has a fan at the bottom of the cup (inside) that runs off a bleader valve of the gun so as to spin it to keep the flake aggitated in the cup. You don't want a gravity feed as the flake will clog the opening. You have to also use a big tip....1.8 or bigger. What do you plan on clearing it with?
 
#114 ·
"Old School Flake"

I was going to use Kustom Shop 2k super flow polyurethane clear. mybe this is to big of a job for me, I've only painted in my high school auto body class. I'm just one of those guys that thinks I can do anything myself, maybe not this time. Is the smaller flake any easier to apply?
 
#115 ·
I was going to use Kustom Shop 2k super flow polyurethane clear. mybe this is to big of a job for me, I've only painted in my high school auto body class. I'm just one of those guys that thinks I can do anything myself, maybe not this time. Is the smaller flake any easier to apply?
The size of the flake (bigger) will make it more difficult to bury and make smooth. What I mean by that is the amount of clear it will take to get flat enough to put tape down for graphics or just flat enough to colorsand & rub out..The smaller flake will make it easier for that. I just finished doing a flake job on a boat and it took 7hrs of spray time. Looks bitchen in the sun and hopefully there's enough clear to sand flat and start laying out the graphics..
 
#116 ·
Flake

Thanks for the input Billy i greatly appreciate, It sounds like i almost got in over my head!! You did an awesome job on my friends green and yellow (irish spring) sanger bubble deck a few years ago, and it still looks bad ass. The graphics on his boat are what I'm hoping to pattern mine after.
 
#117 ·
Thanks for the input Billy i greatly appreciate, It sounds like i almost got in over my head!! You did an awesome job on my friends green and yellow (irish spring) sanger bubble deck a few years ago, and it still looks bad ass. The graphics on his boat are what I'm hoping to pattern mine after.
We just touched up a bunch of the colors ( cap & bubble) and then sprayed a light green candy over the existing flake on the deck (blended) and then recleared and rubbed it out. Saw the boat at Bass Lake a couple of years back. Still looks bitchen... The problem with doing a flake job is if you do screw it up it's a ton of sanding to start over. Not to mention alot of $$$$ in materials...Take your time and if you need anymore ???? answered you can pm me.
 
#119 ·
Billy, I've got a 19' Dimarco jet hull I bought about a year ago, with the intention of refinishing. It's sitting shrink wrapped at the marina I work for. The hull isn't in too bad of shape, but the deck is loaded with stress cracks. It is the original black and red metal flake gel. The guy at our marina does excellent work on small chips and gouges, using gel coat. Usually does our new boat get ready's (small stuff). He says, it'll take for ever to fix. Does each of the cracks need to be ground out? Unfortunately, I only have one shot of the cracking, and it's on the side, not even of the deck. What do you think? I as well like the blue and white, nothing fancy. Can a painted boat stain, in crappy water? How about a gelled boat?

 
#120 ·
If there the cracks that can be found all over the flat area of the deck on most metalflake boats of age and not in the NORMAL STRESS areas where cracks can be found ( corners of the cockpit / gas tank areas especially on the sides. Kickboard area, etc)) then you have alot of work ahead of you...Most of the time these cracks were brought on by leaving the boat outside and usually covered in plastic which doesn't allow the boat / fiberglass to breathe. Which causes the cracks. Those cracks are not only in the gel coat but are most likely into the glass. The only way to get rid of them is to grind the deck down to the glass and start over. Anything else will result in you doing it over and a huge waste of your time...Another thing. Shrink wrapping a boat is just as bad. Put your mouth up to a piece of shrink wrap and see if you can get air to pass through it. If you can then your fine. If you can't then the boat cant breathe either...Sounds stupid. But I speak the truth...
 
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