Prop Help for Hydro
+ Reply to Thread
Results 1 to 8 of 8

Thread:
Prop Help for Hydro

  1. #1
    Newbie
    Join Date
    Sep 2010
    Posts
    31

    Default Prop Help for Hydro

    Hey all
    A few questions for you experts. Bought a hydro after 20 yr layoff and during inspection found the previous owner either did not space prop far
    enough from the strut or prop coupler was loose and allowed prop to drive itself into the strut causing the pictured damage. Also looks like the prop
    has a key way bushing installed to accommodate a 1" shaft.
    Can this prop be rebuilt or is it toast ?
    Is a bushing to resize to a 1" shaft common and / or safe ? Have never seen this before.
    Any thoughts would be appreciated. Thanks Jeff
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Click image for larger version. 

Name:	hydroprop1.jpg 
Views:	55 
Size:	10.0 KB 
ID:	954114   Click image for larger version. 

Name:	hydroprop2.jpg 
Views:	61 
Size:	8.3 KB 
ID:	954122   Click image for larger version. 

Name:	hydroprop3.jpg 
Views:	62 
Size:	8.9 KB 
ID:	954130   Click image for larger version. 

Name:	hydroprop5.jpg 
Views:	63 
Size:	12.3 KB 
ID:	954146  
    Attached Images Attached Images  

  2. Remove Advertisements
    PerformanceBoats.com
    Advertisements
     

  3. #2
    Member 5ribsangerhydro's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2013
    Location
    south central pa
    Posts
    31

    Default

    Call Joe at precision craft marine and get a new prop and shaft or have it crack-check
    prop could be for a flat. JDLR to me
    it this a ski hydro w/ inboard steering?
    .
    .
    Precision Craft Marine  





    Marine supply store in California

    Address: 9320 W Cordelia Rd # B, Fairfield, CA 94534


    Phone: (707) 864-0332

  4. #3
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Jan 2009
    Location
    Nor Cal
    Posts
    1,449

    Default

    Joe closed his shop a few years ago. But he will probably see your post and respond.

    The keyway is not for a bushing, it is there to accept a 1/4" key on the tapered shaft. When you disassembled was the key gone? From the pic it looks like the strut end of the prop reamed itself as it was grinding on the strut.

  5. Remove Advertisements
    PerformanceBoats.com
    Advertisements
     

  6. #4
    Village Idiot fc-Pilot's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2008
    Location
    Peoria, AZ
    Posts
    3,402

    Default

    I would be willing to bet the v-drive bracing was poor and hence the prop grinding into the strut. There may be a bushing to size it down to a 1" shaft, but I can't tell from the picture. As far as hydro stuff, I don't know crap.

    Paul

  7. #5
    Newbie
    Join Date
    Sep 2010
    Posts
    31

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by J. Shelfo Sr. View Post
    Joe closed his shop a few years ago. But he will probably see your post and respond.

    The keyway is not for a bushing, it is there to accept a 1/4" key on the tapered shaft. When you disassembled was the key gone? From the pic it looks like the strut end of the prop reamed itself as it was grinding on the strut.

    Hi, Yes the key was present on the shaft and the prop contacted the strut, causing this grinding. I'm just not sure why. The strut bracing is very stout and the shaft coupler was tight so all I can figure is the previous owner did not space the prop correctly from the strut. I just need to know if this prop and strut are still usable
    as im concerned about the safety factor.
    Thanks SangerV

  8. #6
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Jan 2009
    Location
    Nor Cal
    Posts
    1,449

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by SangerV View Post
    Hi, Yes the key was present on the shaft and the prop contacted the strut, causing this grinding. I'm just not sure why. The strut bracing is very stout and the shaft coupler was tight so all I can figure is the previous owner did not space the prop correctly from the strut. I just need to know if this prop and strut are still usable
    as im concerned about the safety factor.
    Thanks SangerV
    You can start by cleaning the prop and having it x-rayed or you can dye check it yourself. You can buy the 2 can dye check spray at any good welding supply store. If there are no cracks you slide it on the shaft (with out the key) and see if takes a nice movement free fit on the taper. If all is good, you can grind the strut end of the prop flat again. If the forward part of the blades are undamaged leave them alone. Release the shaft from the coupler, slide it back. Put the prop on the shaft (without the key), snug it with the prop nut. Put a mark where the prop stops on the strut end. You will probably need to space the prop shaft from the output shaft. You can use washers or old school (quarters). Hopefully you have a long coupler and not a short one. The short couplers are kind of a gamble if you have to use a lot of spacers. If it assembles with good dimensions then you can make a new key. Make the new key as long as possible that will allow the prop to take a set on the mark that you made on the shaft. Use a new nut and cotter key.

    Hope this helps. If all goes well you may not need to buy a new longer prop shaft.

  9. #7
    Newbie
    Join Date
    Sep 2010
    Posts
    31

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by J. Shelfo Sr. View Post
    You can start by cleaning the prop and having it x-rayed or you can dye check it yourself. You can buy the 2 can dye check spray at any good welding supply store. If there are no cracks you slide it on the shaft (with out the key) and see if takes a nice movement free fit on the taper. If all is good, you can grind the strut end of the prop flat again. If the forward part of the blades are undamaged leave them alone. Release the shaft from the coupler, slide it back. Put the prop on the shaft (without the key), snug it with the prop nut. Put a mark where the prop stops on the strut end. You will probably need to space the prop shaft from the output shaft. You can use washers or old school (quarters). Hopefully you have a long coupler and not a short one. The short couplers are kind of a gamble if you have to use a lot of spacers. If it assembles with good dimensions then you can make a new key. Make the new key as long as possible that will allow the prop to take a set on the mark that you made on the shaft. Use a new nut and cotter key.

    Hope this helps. If all goes well you may not need to buy a new longer prop shaft.

    Dear J. Shelfo Sr.

    Thank you for your reply to my hydro prop question.

    You said " You will probably need to space the prop shaft from the output shaft. You can use washers or old school (quarters).
    Hopefully you have a long coupler and not a short one. The short couplers are kind of a gamble if you have to use a lot of spacers.
    If it assembles with good dimensions then you can make a new key. "

    Not sure I'm clear on this spacing of the prop shaft from the output shaft.
    When I stack washers in the coupler should there be enough so that there is no space between the output and prop shaft ?
    The coupler I have is about 8". Is that adequate ?
    What to make the key out of ?

    Yes, the spacers should butt against the output shaft and the prop shaft. If you can get 1/4" space between the prop and the
    strut, that would be perfect. An 8" coupler should work out ok. You can also make a solid spacer from an old prop shaft. The
    output shaft should maintain enough coupler key. Just make sure the prop shaft has enough coupler key. You will lose some
    material off the strut end of the prop when you reface that surface. If the end of the strut is damaged, you can also lose
    some material there. As you probably know, as the shaft and prop turn, the water resistance continually tries to drive the
    prop on the taper of the shaft.
    The old school guys still use 1/4" keys made from Craftsman screw drivers. If you buy a 12" long screw driver (w/1/4" shaft), you will have plenty of material for future keys.
    Thanks again
    Thought you might like to see my project. Have many more questions
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Click image for larger version. 

Name:	1973Sanger1.jpg 
Views:	65 
Size:	20.4 KB 
ID:	956858   Click image for larger version. 

Name:	1973Sange9.jpg 
Views:	64 
Size:	24.1 KB 
ID:	956866  

  10. #8
    Senior Member f_inscreenname's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Location
    Pasadena, Maryland
    Posts
    1,547

    Default

    I look into those spacers when I was looking for props for my hydro. I know I read more then once they were not made for high HP motors. More like sailboats to be honest. Before I would fix the old prop I try to find one that fits your shaft first. What size left do you have?
    A winner is just a loser that got up and did it one more time.
    1959 Biesemeyer - 4pt Hydro Drag - 2013 ACBS Winner - Best Race Boat
    1966 Donzi 16
    1967 Nova Marine - SuperNova24 - ACBS Winner - 2012 Best Race Boat - 2016 Peoples Choice & Best Non Wood
    1972 John Allmand - Nova 19
    1982 PolarKraft -Jonboat - Crab Killer

+ Reply to Thread

Quick Reply Quick Reply

Register Now

Please enter the name by which you would like to log-in and be known on this site.

Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.

Please enter a valid email address for yourself.

Please select your insurance company (Optional)

Log-in

Tags for this Thread

Digg This Thread

Posting Permissions

  • You may post new threads
  • You may post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  
 

1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20 21 22 23 24 25 26 27 28 29 30 31 32 33 34 35 36 37 38 39 40 41 42 43 44 45 46 47 48 49 50 51 52 53 54 55 56 57 58 59 60 61 62 63 64 65 66 67 68 69 70 71 72 73 74 75 76 77 78 79 80 81 82 83 84 85 86 87 88 89 90 91 92 93 94 95