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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Howdy,

I purchased a running Rayson Craft that needs a restoration. I’ve taken it to the lake 5 times and I am enjoying finally owning a v-drive k boat.

The Casele is located behind the front seats so the prop shaft is at a steeper angle than most vdrives I have seen so far. I plan to disassemble it and sand off all the paint and perform a proper restoration of this iconic boat.
 

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pics or you dont have one.....LOL post pics
 
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nice.........
 

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Howdy,

I purchased a running Rayson Craft that needs a restoration. I’ve taken it to the lake 5 times and I am enjoying finally owning a v-drive k boat.

The Casele is located behind the front seats so the prop shaft is at a steeper angle than most vdrives I have seen so far. I plan to disassemble it and sand off all the paint and perform a proper restoration of this iconic boat.
Well have a real pro look at the angle it could be set up for a K Boat motor and if your running less HP that makes a difference. Make sure they see it before you take it apart.
 

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Steeper does not generally help them. For better performance a strut angle of about 8* is a good general setup. Being that yours is together, and if you don’t want to change it then leaving it the way it is can work fine for a cruiser to “fun” performance. I would also keep the motor and maybe worm it up with a better cam and it will sound good without being a pain to keep together. That is just my thoughts. It is a good looking boat you have.

Paul
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Steeper does not generally help them. For better performance a strut angle of about 8* is a good general setup. Being that yours is together, and if you don’t want to change it then leaving it the way it is can work fine for a cruiser to “fun” performance. I would also keep the motor and maybe worm it up with a better cam and it will sound good without being a pain to keep together. That is just my thoughts. It is a good looking boat you have.

Paul
Thanks fc-Pilot! I'm thinking the motor will be fine to keep as it fires up every time right away and sounds great. I agree on the cam but I will probably have the heads ported and matched with the tunnel and cam. One issue I have not yet resolved is there is little to no water coming out of the headers. I have verified water pressure at the T as well as coming out back and also loosened the water feed connections on each header and water comes out of all of the feeds. I either don't have enough water pressure or there is a blockage inside the header connectors. I don't think every one of them would likely be blocked though. The impeller was recently replaced but is there a way to determine normal water pressure ? I will verify the opening in the header connections and connect a hose to one of them and see if there is a difference.
 

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Generally, corrosion, rust and hard water build up will block the flow in the headers. The smaller the passages, the easier to clog up, and that means the actual header and fitting close to them. The engine is what you need cool. If the water is flowing good there, that is the #1 concern. (Headers are a distant #2) When the headers are apart and the lines all off, throw some solvent and/or CLR and that kind of thing through them and make sure they flow fine. Then, every once in a while, or after the season, clean em out and throw some WD-40 or Marvel in the lines to keep more corrosion from forming. It makes a white cloud when you start it again after the season, but keeps the passages from clogging up.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Thank you its helpful to know this is a common issue and how to deal with it. My next question is whether it makes sense to add a whirl away given I do not plan to go above 80 mph. Is the loss of engine braking significant enough that I would miss it ? Safety is important to me especially since I like taking others with me.

I would like to find a wrap around bench or set of seats where a third person or maybe a ten year old child can ride with us. The only way I would take a child is if the driveshaft is covered and the boat is safe.

I have always wanted a v-drive speedboat since the day in 1984 I was going 80 mph (Nordskog speedo) in a Sleekcraft SST and a little 17’ v-drive passed me idling in between tapping the throttle ever so often. I followed that guy until he pulled up to a dock and asked him about the boat and if he would give me a ride in it. I don’t recall the make but it had a big block with a Weiand roots blower, up and down pedals and a big handle on the dash for the passenger to hold onto. I am not sure how fast we went but I remember the acceleration was monstrous and it really made an impression on me.

Steve

Generally, corrosion, rust and hard water build up will block the flow in the headers. The smaller the passages, the easier to clog up, and that means the actual header and fitting close to them. The engine is what you need cool. If the water is flowing good there, that is the #1 concern. (Headers are a distant #2) When the headers are apart and the lines all off, throw some solvent and/or CLR and that kind of thing through them and make sure they flow fine. Then, every once in a while, or after the season, clean em out and throw some WD-40 or Marvel in the lines to keep more corrosion from forming. It makes a white cloud when you start it again after the season, but keeps the passages from clogging up.
 
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