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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
transom rod

hell i never thought about that what an idea i guess you dont have to worry about it being strong enough with a propshaft right
 

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You can machine one out of an old prop shaft.

Paul
hell i never thought about that what an idea i guess you dont have to worry about it being strong enough with a propshaft right
I think (hope?) he was joking. A propshaft would weigh a ton. Usually, 1" cavitation rods are made from tubing with ends welded into them for 1/2" rods to couple to the pedal and through the transom. The tubing ends are available from race car chassis builders for specific wall thickness' or can be easily machined up if you're handy with a lathe...
Good luck
 

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I think (hope?) he was joking. A propshaft would weigh a ton. Usually, 1" cavitation rods are made from tubing with ends welded into them for 1/2" rods to couple to the pedal and through the transom. The tubing ends are available from race car chassis builders for specific wall thickness' or can be easily machined up if you're handy with a lathe...
Good luck
DAVID, I think he was talking about the transom cav plate rod. The rod your eye levers bolt on to across the transom.
 

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DAVID, I think he was talking about the transom cav plate rod. The rod your eye levers bolt on to across the transom.
BINGO! Although David, being that we have been building and racing Funnycars for the past 12 years there are a number of pieces in our boat that do look like car parts.;) I am sure there is a thing or two that has trickled over from your asphalt days.

I have to give credit elsewhere as I over heard someone previously talk about using a prop shaft for the transom bar. Since they are often made of better material they work great back there. From what I understand they are just harder to machine. If you have the tools and time you could really save yourself a few bucks.

Paul
 

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DAVID, I think he was talking about the transom cav plate rod. The rod your eye levers bolt on to across the transom.
BINGO! Although David, being that we have been building and racing Funnycars for the past 12 years there are a number of pieces in our boat that do look like car parts.;) I am sure there is a thing or two that has trickled over from your asphalt days.

I have to give credit elsewhere as I over heard someone previously talk about using a prop shaft for the transom bar. Since they are often made of better material they work great back there. From what I understand they are just harder to machine. If you have the tools and time you could really save yourself a few bucks.

Paul
Duh... Didn't even think of that. My bad... Our first Canyon had the 1" tubing cavitation plate pull rod so that was the first thing that came to mind. Seemed like a lot of work for not much benefit.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
rod

I will probably have to take a shaft to the machine shop i have a bridgeport mill but i dont have much tooling for it yet i can run it just fine but shit is expensive
 

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What is your eye lever spacing? I can get you one done for $150 (alum) or $300 ( out of a USED Aqua 22 prop shaft ) and give it to your buddy in AZ when I give them the blower
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
rod

I havent got that far yet to figure out the spacing i know its alout different than my hondo t-deck runner. The hondo is 63 1/4 inches total width and the kurtis is 641/2he center runner on the hondo is 23 inches ans the kurtis is 19 1/4 the outside runner on the hondo are 17 3/16 and the kurtis is 20 1/4 it throws using the hondo rod right out the window
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
rod

I can probably get it done for less than 300.00 myself i have some good propshafts laying around mark it and toke it to the machine shop and have them key it for the control arm and drill it
 

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yeah, if you have the porp shaft it will be cheaper. We do it for $150. A new one is like $500. That kurtis has a small center plate, You should end up running 10 turnbuckles like a older cole.
 
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