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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
454 BBC Help ASAP.. Any Mechanics around OC/Riverside/SB??

Hello there.... Planned a family trip to the river so of course something was going to go wrong. Issue is with a 7/4L 454 BBC. It was/is blowing and using oil on the 2/4/6/8 side of the 454. Started pulling plugs and #4 was covered in oil and the tip was bent meaning there is no gap. Obviously something forced it shut and I'm hoping it's not a piston head (don't know what else could do it). I pulled the valve cover off and cannot see anything obvious on the valve springs or rods. It's hydrolic roller set up with 2 valve springs. I am able to force them to move by pressing down real hard using my body weight on them (207lbs). When I started it up after re gapping the sparkplug there was a notticable knock. Took the plug back out and it was not collapsed, looked normal aside from a fresh coat of oil. With all this going on, it doesn't sound to me like it's mis-firing and still fires right up and runs as smooth as you could expect while on the trailer with the jet drive making noise.

I'm not an engine builder but can follow instructions pretty clear. Here's my questions?

Is there a way to tell whether is a cylinder/piston issue vs. a valve issue without pulling the cylinder head off? Is it possibly a stuck valve that I could repair from the outside with new valve springs? My gut says it's not and easy fix. What do you think?:confused:
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 · (Edited)
Knocks are never good.
Yeah that's what scares me. I'm trying to hold off on the desert toys and had a couple more trips planned in the boat between now and mid november.

On edit: The oil is still nice a dark, not milky (no signs of water). The oil pressure was at about 50-60 at idle.
 

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Yeah that's what scares me. I'm trying to hold off on the desert toys and had a couple more trips planned in the boat between now and mid november.

On edit: The oil is still nice a dark, not milky (no signs of water). The oil pressure was at about 50-60 at idle.
at the very least get a hold of a compression tester to test all the cylinders. (even the good ones...they give a baseline)

but an even better way is to get a leak down tester (if you have access to one) the leakdown will tell you where and how much is leaking. anything substantial would require the engine to be taken down for repair. even if you don't know exactly what it is. the leakdown and compression should give a good hint as to a major or minor issue. my guess is it is something major that needs to be torn down for repair.

AP
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
and this thing ran fine the last time you had it out?
Started to smoke on the last day. Notice a little when getting just south of Parker and the smoke grew as we got back to Lost Lake, but nothing noticable as far as performance. I changed the valve covers due to a crack in the aluminum (went from short aluminum to tall steel) and pulled the intake off chasing a leak next to the water manifold (thermostat housing) on the front of the engine (there were 2 intake bolts very loose in the middle and one on the front allowing water ride up the bolt and create a very small pool (opposite the side with this issue right next to #1). Every time I've fired it up on the trailer I've had water going through the block and jet. All those leakes are now gone/fixed.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
why don't you toss up a picture of that spark plug if you can.

AP
Sure thing. This is right after I pulled it the second time. I had already blasted it with break cleaner before your request. It was completely collapsed (arch touching the tip of plug) the first time I pulled it out.


 

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Discussion Starter · #10 · (Edited)
Trip Canceled

Well needless to say canceled the trip. Tomorrow I will do the compression test on the cylinders. Another thought was to disconnect the jet from the block to eliminate the rattling of the unloaded pump. I really don't think that is going to eliminate the knocking noise I'm hearing but I figure if it's something major I will have to seperate them anyways to get the engine out. Who knows, maybe the noise I'm hearing is just the pump and all I have is a real leaky Valve guide. Not normally that lucky so I'm not holding my breath.
 

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Well needless to say canceled the trip. Tomorrow I will do the compression test on the cylinders. Another thought was to disconnect the jet from the block to eliminate the rattling of the unloaded pump. I really don't think that is going to eliminate the knocking noise I'm hearing but I figure if it's something major I will have to seperate them anyways to get the engine out. Who knows, maybe the noise I'm hearing is just the pump and all I have is a real leaky Valve guide. Not normally that lucky so I'm not holding my breath.
What city are you in, I may be able to take a look at it with you? I am in Glendora, PM if you want to try to bring it by and check it out.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 · (Edited)
Test results are in!!

Cylinders
1= 145 -150 2 = 145-150
3= 145 -150 4 = 0 :mad:
5= 145 -150 6 = 90 - 95
7= 145 -150 8 = 120-125

Warped or Cracked Head?:)bulb
Blown head gasket??? I know that would be too easy right.

I guess I should be glad it didn't leave me stranded up river. Still don't get how it would run as smooth as it did until I got it out of the water. I guess that could of been the very begining of the end and when I was running it at home (checking to see if the leaks were repaired) it took it's final plung. Some luck is better than none right... hahahaha
 

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Cylinders
1= 145 -150 2 = 145-150
3= 145 -150 4 = 0 :mad:
5= 145 -150 6 = 90 - 95
7= 145 -150 8 = 120-125

Warped or Cracked Head?:)bulb
Blown head gasket??? I know that would be too easy right.
Going with a hole in a piston or ring lands in the pan...

Sorry, but a bolwn HG will not mechanically FUBAR a plug electrode....:)bulb

Good luck.

GT :)hand
 

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Cylinders
1= 145 -150 2 = 145-150
3= 145 -150 4 = 0 :mad:
5= 145 -150 6 = 90 - 95
7= 145 -150 8 = 120-125

Warped or Cracked Head?:)bulb
Blown head gasket??? I know that would be too easy right.

I guess I should be glad it didn't leave me stranded up river. Still don't get how it would run as smooth as it did until I got it out of the water. I guess that could of been the very begining of the end and when I was running it at home (checking to see if the leaks were repaired) it took it's final plung. Some luck is better than none right... hahahaha
Time for a mechanic, use your compression checker to blow air into the bad cylinder and see where it goes, first remove the rockers for that cylinder. looks like a problem with #6 and 8 also
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 · (Edited)
Thanks for the input guys. Right now I'm going to have to say this is out of my realm of knowledge and turn it over to the PRO,s.

:)handANY MECHANICS OUT THERE WANT TO MAKE SOME MONEY???:D

Don't have the time/knowledge/room to take this one on right now and I'd still like to get this boat out a couple times before the end of the year so looking to do this ASAP.

From what I was told when I bought the boat, it had around 30 hours on a rebuild. Checked with the builder and was told the rebuild included a new Eagle cast crank & 250 long I-beams, Flat top SRP pistons, 1 piece Stainless Steel Valves, 7/16 rods and Clevite Bearings all the way around with new Hydrolic Roller Rocker cam&lifters. I guess we'll have to wait and see inside how much of the above is still in good enough condition to re-use.

Like I said, not an engine builder by any means but figured the more info I gave would help with the history and possible costs of repairs.

IF YOUR INTERESTED IN TAKING THIS ON, PM ME YOUR INFO AND I WILL CALL YOU. I'M CLOSE TO THE 15 AND 60/91 FREEWAYS IN RIVERSIDE.
 

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Thanks for the input guys. Right now I'm going to have to say this is out of my realm of knowledge and turn it over to the PRO,s.

:)handANY MECHANICS OUT THERE WANT TO MAKE SOME MONEY???:D

Don't have the time/knowledge/room to take this one on right now and I'd still like to get this boat out a couple times before the end of the year so looking to do this ASAP.

From what I was told when I bought the boat, it had around 30 hours on a rebuild. Checked with the builder and was told the rebuild included a new Eagle cast crank & 250 long I-beams, Flat top SRP pistons, 1 piece Stainless Steal Valves, 7/16 rods and Clevite Bearings all the way around with new Hydrolic Roller Rocker cam&lifters. I guess we'll have to wait and see inside how much of the above is still in good enough condition to re-use.

Like I said, not an engine builder by any means but figured the more info I gave would help with the history and possible costs of repairs.

IF YOUR INTERESTED IN TAKING THIS ON, PM ME YOUR INFO AND I WILL CALL YOU. I'M CLOSE TO THE 15 AND 60/91 FREEWAYS IN RIVERSIDE.
Well there's your problem...Someone "Stole" your valves...:D

Just bustin your balls....:|err

I'm sure someone will step up and help you out.
 

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Well there's your problem...Someone "Stole" your valves...:D

Just bustin your balls....:|err

I'm sure someone will step up and help you out.
Atleast a couple.And you should hit up Barry to maybe help you out! He's the one that ALREADY offered to help you. You can see his work all over on here and a few other places and he's dam good!:)devil
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 · (Edited)
Well there's your problem...Someone "Stole" your valves...:D

Just bustin your balls....:|err

I'm sure someone will step up and help you out.

Haaha.. nice catch.

And yes, I've already PM'd Barry just waiting to see how everything works out. Don't know what is schedule, work load, and of course costs are. Quality is definately a factor as this is the family ride.
 
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