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Discussion Starter #1
Hi all,

I had a gasket give way on one of the block off plates on the torker 455 intake manifold on my boat (olds 455). When I tried to loosen the bolt, SNAP... F**K!

Then I tried to drill it out, and use an easy out on it, when SNAP the bit broke off inside the bolt... lol I can't seem to drill out the drill bit, it's pretty tough.

Two questions,

1. Can you recommend any other way of extracting the bolt? The manifold is already off so I could take it to a shop I suppose.

2. It's in pretty crappy shape so I was going to buy another one, but auto parts guy said I don't need a torker, that a performer would do fine. The price difference isn't that significant, and I'm running stock heads, cam etc....

any suggestions?

Thanks,

Nick




 

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If the manifold is in otherwise good shape have it fixed up and then bead-blasted... it will look like new.

Stick with the Torker...
 

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they can either remove the broken stud/easy out. or weld a cap over the entire area. either way your getting away from having to buy a new intake. i for one would have the thing welded up.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
they can either remove the broken stud/easy out. or weld a cap over the entire area. either way your getting away from having to buy a new intake. i for one would have the thing welded up.

That sounds like a plan. What's that port for anyway?
 

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Emissions

That sounds like a plan. What's that port for anyway?
I'm pretty sure that is an EGR port...(Exhaust gas recirculation).....A machine shop, not necessarily an automotive type, can cut the easy out and remaining bolt out with a Carbide end mill. You may have to increase the bolt size afterwards, but you should be able to save the intake......I could do it for you, but my mill is in Bullhead and you should be able to find some one in your area.....Ray
 

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That port is for cars, allows heat from exhaust gases to warm what I believe was a choke mechanism (or more likely EGR port as Moneypitt stated). You can block it off entirely from both sides of the intake then just reattach your plate with one bolt for cosmetic reasons. It's kinda backyard, but you can wad up and stuff foil in those 2 holes and finish off with JB weld. To clean that intake, buy some Eagle 1 Mag Wheel cleaner for unfinished aluminim soak, rinse, repeat, soak, rinse, repeat until your happy, works really well, might need a little scrub brush action, but not much if any.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
One more question:

The mounting bolts are in real bad shape. Can anybody tell me what size to buy? I can't seem to find them on summit, but maybe the auto parts store has em. I'd like to go with allen heads cause two of the hex head bolts were damn near impossible to get a socket on.

thanks,

Nick
 

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I can possibly fix it. Are you at home now?? I am in Auburn right now, I could take a look at it.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
I can possibly fix it. Are you at home now?? I am in Auburn right now, I could take a look at it.

I'm acutally home sick from work... can't move far from the toilet....nasty sh*t... got my lap top and doing some online shopping for parts.

I'm gonna take it to bast bros welding and have them cap it off.

Thanks though...we'll have to get together one of these days maybe you can check out the boat annd recommend some stuff.

Thanks,

Nick
 

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Nick just a hint .. check that underside (heat cross over really well for cracks into the plenum also block the heat cross over when you go back (plugs or plates) , its worth some HP Tom

ps try some Kaopectate ;)
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Ok, now I've got more questions... freakn newb I know but the internet is a big place.

Please explain more about the cross over plugs, I see the for sale on summit, but I'm lost after that.

Do I save the turkey tray? Do they sell them instead of gaskets? All I see is gaskets for sale, no turkey trays.

Thanks again
 

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toss the turkey tray in the trash, or use it to cook a turkey, but it has no place in your engine. get some regular type intake gaskets and use high tack around the ports, and silicone (black) under the intake at the front and back of block. the block off plates sometimes come with a good set of gaskets which are basically tin inserts. or you can try and find some better/thicker ones. either way you want to block the exhaust gases coming from the valve port from entering the crossover port under the intake. and yes inspect that crossover closely. they are prone to crack. (and a bitch to weld on a used intake) lots of cleaning.
 

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Maybe off topic, maybe not, for any of you guys running Olds with aftermarket intakes, do not use the stock gaskets with a valley pan, use (only) FelPro SPP1356 gaskets and install per FelPro's rec's otherwise you will get water in the oil.
 

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Never had luck with the block off's they always seemed to burn through, Edelbrock makes the plugs to fill in the port on the head, this also keeps the heat away from the manifold (Good if you run a powder coated intake). Mr Gasket performance gaskets will work just fine, just add silicone to the water passages.
 

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The "Iron grind to fit Plugs" like Chuck said ,are the hot set up for Olds and a PITA , a lot of "grind and fit" action, IF you use the "turkey tray" in conjunction with anything but a Iron OEM intake ,you will have h20 in the oil (only a matter of time) Tom

ps last season had a major engine failure in from a very prominent "Olds expert" , seems the poured "molten aluminum" (melted piston alloy) into those cross over ports , small pieces of slag from this process cause piston/combustion chamber interferance :)
 

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I think they use stuff that melts a little quicker than piston alloy (zinc-something). I used forged pistons in mine and they're working alright. The aluminum grows a little more than the iron so they wiggle a bit now, but no other issues. ;)
 

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I think they use stuff that melts a little quicker than piston alloy (zinc-something). I used forged pistons in mine and they're working alright. The aluminum grows a little more than the iron so they wiggle a bit now, but no other issues. ;)
I have some of that alloy your talking about Malcolm, got it from Dick Miller olds.

when I get to the shop I will see what they call it. Much better than the edelbrock plugs but the heads would have to come off to pour it in and then probably a valve job.
 
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