Performance Boats Forum banner

1 - 20 of 25 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
201 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
I saw that a 'quick fix' way to reduce some of the oiling problems on the 455 olds is to run restricted pushrods, that only have a 0.040 hole thru them. This is supposed to reduce the problem of pumping too much oil to the top end, where it gets trapped, and then starves the bottem end of oil. Of course Mondello sells these restricted pushrods for $200+ a set.

Any reason why a budget minded boater couldnt shoot/suck some epoxy in one end then redrill to 0.040? I was planning on running the epoxy side on the top, so oil could pressurize normally in the lifter until it reached the restriction just short of the rocker arm.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,234 Posts
I saw that a 'quick fix' way to reduce some of the oiling problems on the 455 olds is to run restricted pushrods, that only have a 0.040 hole thru them. This is supposed to reduce the problem of pumping too much oil to the top end, where it gets trapped, and then starves the bottem end of oil. Of course Mondello sells these restricted pushrods for $200+ a set.

Any reason why a budget minded boater couldnt shoot/suck some epoxy in one end then redrill to 0.040? I was planning on running the epoxy side on the top, so oil could pressurize normally in the lifter until it reached the restriction just short of the rocker arm.
What about roll pins in the top of the pushrod?, the can't go anywhere, and talk about cheap :)bulb

I like the epoxy idea, but would it take the constant pounding, and will it stick to the smooth oily surface? Maybe something stronger like Marine Tex or JB Quick :)Unsure

GT :)hand
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
7,464 Posts
Back in the day We used to run "pipe cleaners" in the Sbc's for the same reasons , now we routinely use a small roll pin (hardware store) driven in place this will help limit oil flow , we also use a modified standard volume OP and large capacity pans and we enlarge the oil drain backs at the ends of the heads (even going so far as to "return" oil out side the crankcase back to the pan , there lots of other tricks to improve and enhance Olds motor performance and longevity , call or PM if I can help Tom

ps not huge on the epoxy idea , sorry
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
201 Posts
Discussion Starter #4
Roll pins are a sweet idea. You are talking about one small enough to go in the (current) pushrod hole, that would be driven in just far enough to not fall into the main body? I have the 3 piece pushrods now, with a tube main body and 2 balls welded/brazed to each end.
 

·
In pace requiescat
Joined
·
113 Posts
restrictors

I am still waiting for someone to tell me that the reduced oil will not damage the top end. Does the Olds oil like a chevy?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
393 Posts
I am still waiting for someone to tell me that the reduced oil will not damage the top end. Does the Olds oil like a chevy?
i am running a high volume oil pump with oil restrictors above all my main berings, chanelled both top and bottom of the big end of my rods, extra side clearance of the big end of my rods, and a 10 qt pan that i run a qt high.
the reason for all this is so alot of my oil stays down stairs!! there is still alot of oil in my top end!!
i am on my 7 season with no oiling problems!!!

hope this helps, good luck
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
7,464 Posts
Roll pins are a sweet idea. You are talking about one small enough to go in the (current) pushrod hole, that would be driven in just far enough to not fall into the main body? I have the 3 piece pushrods now, with a tube main body and 2 balls welded/brazed to each end.
Yes , cheap and easy fix ! Tom
 

·
Jet boat service
Joined
·
126 Posts
When I set up olds motors I get my push rods custom made. They are cheaper than Mondellos. And alot of the time there are geometry issues to deal with so a special length may be required. I want the stronger rods with the thicker wall and they are hardened for guide plates if you make the change in the future. They are around 160.00 but well worth it in my opinion. The Olds motor has long push rods and they will flex at higher RPM. Stronger is better. The small .040 oil hole end sits in the lifter. The reduced oil will not hurt the top end. Jim :):)
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,793 Posts
You have to restrict the oil at the crank not in the pushrods or it will just
spill over the lifters into the valley.Joe Mondello perfected this oiling system
for Oldsmobile Racing in 1968 and it still works today.Its a cheap 20 dollar bill :D:)hand
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
981 Posts
I honestly wouldnt mess with the pipe cleaner method.. If you wanna do it you should do it right. Here are some pics of my setup and then ive got some mods that arent visible at all... Take a look and make your decision.. If you were only going to do one modification i would seriously consider the oil drankbacks off the head directly back into the pan. While the heads are off have the exhaust corssovers, and exhaust bridge for the center cylinders welded up for an extra 8-12hp. PM me your email and ill send you an article with all the information you will need to get the heads tapped in the right area along with how to weld up the crossover and bridges... Along with tons more info on how to build a powerfull olds motor.

my oil mods include,

race prepped block
gasket matched oil returns on head and block
enlarged returns on the head
oil restricters
external oil drains to pan

im sure i went a bit overboard but i wanna get as much oil back to the pan as possible.


http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v31/matt1840/boating/DSC00990.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v31/matt1840/boating/DSC00991.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v31/matt1840/boating/DSC01188.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v31/matt1840/boating/DSC01187.jpg
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
981 Posts
Matt, with all these goodies, what is the max rpm that you can go for a long time without causing starvation?
I have yet to run the motor its just been put into the hull... I should know soon. I know 2 guys that have had olds with these mods and i know of them turning between 5300 no problem.. You could get more but i wouldnt wanna run anymore than 5500. These motors dont like high rpm.. And deffinetly let your foot out of it if you get airborn... I know from experiance lol. my 6AL should fix that haha

starvation shouldnt even occur.. The reason all the oil stays up in the valve covers is because the stock returns are the size of a pencil and are damn near runnin on a level plane. By enlarging those and giving them a slight angle it helps, along with the restrictors.. The return lines back to the pan are a deffinate cure for the problem.

Hit up "timinator" he wrote the article i sent you. He is great at answering any and all questions.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
393 Posts
mine is turnin 5300 rpms. like it has been said i dont keep it there for too long! after a good run it is good to cool down your oil slowin to a high idle(1000-1200) for 5 nim or so!

IMO anything over 5300 in my olds and i am going for a bigger impeller!!
i am thinking about doing it now!!
 

·
NW Spectraholic
Joined
·
588 Posts
Without a good oil cooler you'll spin a rod from heat before you'll run out of oil anyway. ;)

And the main restrictors do nothing to keep oil out of your valve covers. It only shrinks the amount of oil going to the cam bearings.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
393 Posts
Without a good oil cooler you'll spin a rod from heat before you'll run out of oil anyway. ;)

And the main restrictors do nothing to keep oil out of your valve covers. It only shrinks the amount of oil going to the cam bearings.
i never thought about it, i just did what i was told!

i was told this was to keep the oil in my bottom end????????????
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
201 Posts
Discussion Starter #19
I bought some roll pins and did the DIY restricted pushrod mod. Tip o' the hat to Tom for the roll pin idea. My block and heads already had the drainback mods, I will do the external drain mods over the winter most likely.

I havent had a chance to run it long enough (or hot enough) to see if there is any noticable change in oil pressure, but it is peace of mind that there is less oil up in the valve covers.

So I bought a 100 pack of these roll pins for about $10, and got about 80 left and not enough olds motors in my fleet to use them. If someone wants a set, PM me and I will send you a set for a couple bucks.

Anyone got ideas on a cheap-charlie oil cooler? I think there is some merit to the comment above about oil temp causing problems just as much as the olds starvation issues. But Im not looking to drop $500 on an oil cooler for a $1500 boat, so the cheap/DYI route is what I am looking at.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
7,464 Posts
I bought some roll pins and did the DIY restricted pushrod mod. Tip o' the hat to Tom for the roll pin idea. My block and heads already had the drainback mods, I will do the external drain mods over the winter most likely.

I havent had a chance to run it long enough (or hot enough) to see if there is any noticable change in oil pressure, but it is peace of mind that there is less oil up in the valve covers.

So I bought a 100 pack of these roll pins for about $10, and got about 80 left and not enough olds motors in my fleet to use them. If someone wants a set, PM me and I will send you a set for a couple bucks.

Anyone got ideas on a cheap-charlie oil cooler? I think there is some merit to the comment above about oil temp causing problems just as much as the olds starvation issues. But Im not looking to drop $500 on an oil cooler for a $1500 boat, so the cheap/DYI route is what I am looking at.
Prolly A certain "Olds performance parts" catalogue might describe those cheapy roll pins as , specially hardend and media tumbled high performance push rod oil restrictor inserts , especially designed for the limitatation oil excess oil flow to engine upper end ! or words to that effect Glad they worked out !
 
1 - 20 of 25 Posts
Top