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Boat Nut
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Not that an Olds won't do it, it's the longevitiy that suffers upping the HP in the OLDS, they will last for ever in stock form. Seriously a Ford or Chevy would be much more reliable @ 450hp...
 

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olds

check out realoldspower.com, but I think sleek is right. Just as a reference larger bore= hp longer stroke=torque (oversimplified), and the olds 455 is really just a small block with a taller deck and longer stroke.
 

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NW Spectraholic
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588 Posts
I think you could do 400 with that setup but not 450. The J heads are not known for their great flow. You say cheap, how cheap you talkin'? :)
 

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Not that an Olds won't do it, it's the longevitiy that suffers upping the HP in the OLDS, they will last for ever in stock form. Seriously a Ford or Chevy would be much more reliable @ 450hp...
x2
 

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I'll second the trip to realoldspower.com...all the info you need is there.

I'm in the same boat(terrible pun I know....)....currently have a 455 that is toast, and instead of swapping out to a ford or chevy(even thought about pulling the v10 outta my dodge....."pipe" dream I know...lol). But for simplicity, I am just going back to the 455. I picked up a couple "running" junkyard motors, one to drop in and get wet, the other to build with all the tricks needed to keep the 455 together for extended WOT fun.

In my *very* limited experience I would worry more about torque than hp....and keep the rpms under 5000 if you want "reliable".

What are "wa" heads?
 

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"Mad" Member
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769 Posts
There is no way to get that HP range cheap. I have done a lot of reshearch regarding the 455 Olds and to build a reliable one takes a good engine builder that knows the machine and all the tricks.

1. Restricted Pushrods.
2. Resrtict oil galley on mains to cam.
3. Restricted cam bearings.
4. Nodular crank.
5. Enlarge backflow oil galleys in heads.
6. Debur lifter valley.
7. Modify conrods.
8. H/V oil pump.

and the list goes on.

Oh, and you can listen to Malcolm - I using the advice he gave me on rebuilding my engine.

Most important is the tolerances on the big end and main bearings.

Been there done that:)st

PS. And I am a big Olds fan. Don't do it cheap do it right the first time.:)devil
 

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"Mad" Member
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769 Posts
I'll second the trip to realoldspower.com...all the info you need is there.

I'm in the same boat(terrible pun I know....)....currently have a 455 that is toast, and instead of swapping out to a ford or chevy(even thought about pulling the v10 outta my dodge....."pipe" dream I know...lol). But for simplicity, I am just going back to the 455. I picked up a couple "running" junkyard motors, one to drop in and get wet, the other to build with all the tricks needed to keep the 455 together for extended WOT fun.

In my *very* limited experience I would worry more about torque than hp....and keep the rpms under 5000 if you want "reliable".

What are "wa" heads?
"Wa" heads are a Irragation/Marine prepared heads - You get Ka an Ga heads as well. hardended seats, big valves etc.

If the engine number is as follows 5L 345253 it means the engine was designated for Marine or Irragation pump use.
 

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NW Spectraholic
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588 Posts
Hmm, never heard of Wa heads.... I'm running the Ka's tho...
 

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"Mad" Member
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Honda1

Can you give me the Casting nr on your heads?

Will give you the specs on them.
 

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There is no way to get that HP range cheap. I have done a lot of reshearch regarding the 455 Olds and to build a reliable one takes a good engine builder that knows the machine and all the tricks.

1. Restricted Pushrods.
2. Resrtict oil galley on mains to cam.
3. Restricted cam bearings.
4. Nodular crank.
5. Enlarge backflow oil galleys in heads.
6. Debur lifter valley.
7. Modify conrods.
8. H/V oil pump.

and the list goes on.

Oh, and you can listen to Malcolm - I using the advice he gave me on rebuilding my engine.

Most important is the tolerances on the big end and main bearings.

Been there done that:)st

PS. And I am a big Olds fan. Don't do it cheap do it right the first time.:)devil
x2 if you don't do this it will not last, been there done that!!!
 

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Registered
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64 Posts
There is no way to get that HP range cheap. I have done a lot of reshearch regarding the 455 Olds and to build a reliable one takes a good engine builder that knows the machine and all the tricks.

1. Restricted Pushrods.
2. Resrtict oil galley on mains to cam.
3. Restricted cam bearings.
4. Nodular crank.
5. Enlarge backflow oil galleys in heads.
6. Debur lifter valley.
7. Modify conrods.
8. H/V oil pump.

and the list goes on.
I would add...
-drill the holes in the upper main bearing shells to 5/16" to match the holes in the block

-external oil drains from the heads to the pan are an option to drilling the stock rear oil return holes larger... I run mine to a Tee then to the E-Z drain hose... I tested with clear plastic tubing... worked great

-the holes you re-drill into the rotated cam bearings would be 3/32"

-ensure that the oil galley plugs that lube the timing chain at the front, and the rear one that lubes the dist. gear are drilled with a .040" hole... the rebuild kit pieces are usually undrilled

-improve fuel delivery to carb

Drains:


Rod notches:
 

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"Mad" Member
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769 Posts
bcFloater,

Where does the oil drainback from the heads enter your oil pan?

What type of pan are you running.?
 

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My 455 has that same drain except it is hard plumbed w/copper. They enter the pan just below the rail to some fitting I welded in as far back as I could get them without interfering with the flywheel. Works great, 4 seasons at 6K rpm.

Trent
 

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bcFloater,

Where does the oil drainback from the heads enter your oil pan?

What type of pan are you running.?
I am running a Moroso 10-qt. pan

I drilled and tapped the big hex nut that is used for the drain and threaded the end (elbow) of an EZ-drain hose into it... when I want to change the oil, I pull the top of the EZ-drain hose off the brass Tee and connect it to a drill pump... works great

When I first tested with clear tubing to see if the oil flowed through well... I had my brother lean over the engine and watch while I ran the engine at various speeds

Typically as I passed 3200rpm, the oil would start flowing steadily and never backed up in the pipe as I suspected it may do... the stock drain holes in the heads are functional as always
 

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"Mad" Member
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769 Posts
I run a 8qt Moroso pan. I drilled the Hex nut for the oil Temp sender unit.

The 10qt does not fit with 3 point mount system and cradle strap.

Has anybody tried running a dry sump system?
 

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