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smoknoldy
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16 Posts
Olds mo pile

Haven't scrutinized all the posts on this thread but 625 hp at 6100 rpm on a "B" ss hi helix, several years now but $13,000 cost. is that cheap???

Oh it's WD Heads! and "B" and "C" Heads are good also, the marine package heads are pressed in Seats a formula for disaster, Aftermarket aluminum Heads are readily available. Heads should be machined for pushrod guide plates

Olds Rods need work better to use and aftermarket Steel Rod.

use Billet 1/2" chromoloy straps on your Main Caps, oil resrictors etc.

Raced a Olds Roller cam Motor made 727 ft lbs of torque 468" on 2 780 cfm Holleys, and we spanked Chevrolets.

smoknoldy 098
 

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Yup, the Olds of years gone by were untouchable. These kids nowadays dont know there history. Hell, Olds even kicked ass in NASCAR back in the day. I agree with ya on the $13.000. Olds aint cheap to build rite, got almost 12 in mine and its a small blk. :D
 

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"Mad" Member
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769 Posts
Raced a Olds Roller cam Motor made 727 ft lbs of torque 468" on 2 780 cfm Holleys, and we spanked Chevrolets.

Right on. Olds showed the way.:)devil
 

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B.A.M aka "Black Azz Mike
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2,925 Posts
I think you could do 400 with that setup but not 450. The J heads are not known for their great flow. You say cheap, how cheap you talkin'? :)

Sup Malcy! How are ya brotha? You still runnin da olds?
 

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B.A.M aka "Black Azz Mike
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2,925 Posts
Please make sure that you have enuff main and rod bearing clearance!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! THats the MOST important thing with an olds!!!!
 

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B.A.M aka "Black Azz Mike
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2,925 Posts
Oh and keep the RPM's UNDER 5k and she will live. It will be low on the hp side but big on the TORQUE side :)




If you want a recipe, pm me and Ill get you some good info. I use to build them olds back in the day and I blew up enuff to learn real quick how to build them :)

Mike
 

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B.A.M aka "Black Azz Mike
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2,925 Posts
Dont forget to restrict the oil to the heads with restricted pushrods!!!!!!!!!! Use a high pressure pump but NOT a high volume!!!!!!
 

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B.A.M aka "Black Azz Mike
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2,925 Posts
There is no way to get that HP range cheap. I have done a lot of reshearch regarding the 455 Olds and to build a reliable one takes a good engine builder that knows the machine and all the tricks.

1. Restricted Pushrods. A MUST!
2. Resrtict oil galley on mains to cam. I never do this on my stuff
3. Restricted cam bearings. again, I dont do this either but it works
4. Nodular crank. If you can find one cheap
5. Enlarge backflow oil galleys in heads. a must
6. Debur lifter valley. great idea
7. Modify conrods. MUST! shotpeen,stress relieve,xray and use ARP bolts in rods and crank!!!!!!!
8. H/V oil pump. I disagree! High pressure but keep the volume stock! Volume pushes the oil to the top and it cant drain fast enuff!!!!

and the list goes on.

Oh, and you can listen to Malcolm - I using the advice he gave me on rebuilding my engine. Malcom knows OLDS very well! I remember when he and I were building olds motors back in the day around the same time :)

Most important is the tolerances on the big end and main bearings. YES sir! I like to see .0025-.0035 on mains and .002-.0025 rods. Use good heavy oil with loose clearances. The loose clearances create lower oil pressure. I modify my pump and spring to accomodate this :)

Been there done that:)st

PS. And I am a big Olds fan. Don't do it cheap do it right the first time."Don't do it cheap, do it right the first time" PLEASE PLEASE read this message and go by it! THis man is dead nutz right here!!!! If you cut corners, you will be doing it 2 or 3 times again! then you will kick yourself in da azz and your wife will kill you :) If your going to do it 3 times, them swap it out for a ford or chevy!

GREAT POST WITH GREAT INFO :) I added my opinion to your informative post. Hopefully I didnt upset you by doing so. :)

Spitter
 

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B.A.M aka "Black Azz Mike
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2,925 Posts
The most important thing is to NOT listen to the chubby and ferd guys.

hahahaha, thats for damn sure:D I am a Chevy guy BUT I started my jet world with Oldsmopiles:D My final build hauled azz and it lived at 5k all day long :D
 

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Horsepower sells Engines
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402 Posts
Use a high pressure pump but NOT a high volume!!!!!!
ha ha did you read up on the tread. you can have a extremely high pressure setting on your relief but if it only pumps .5 gpm your never going to get pressure, forget about high pressure worry about getting enough flow to allow the pump to build the correct pressure. im sure the stock pressure settings on the relief is sufficient
 

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B.A.M aka "Black Azz Mike
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2,925 Posts
ensure that the oil galley plugs that lube the timing chain at the front, and the rear one that lubes the dist. gear are drilled with a .040" hole... the rebuild kit pieces are usually undrilled I agree with this! Great info as well!!! gYeah, the oil galley plugs need to have a hole in them to oil the timing set and the same thing applies to the plug near the dist gear. I forgot to do the dist galley plug on mine and had to do it after the motor was complete. It was a biotch and I dropped the old plug in the oil pan. Had to pull the motor and drop the pan to get that plug out of the oilpan :( Waste of time but had to be done!

-improve fuel delivery to carb Agree!!
More great info!
 

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"Mad" Member
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769 Posts
Spitter[/QUOTE]

ha ha did you read up on the tread. you can have a extremely high pressure setting on your relief but if it only pumps .5 gpm your never going to get pressure, forget about high pressure worry about getting enough flow to allow the pump to build the correct pressure. im sure the stock pressure settings on the relief is sufficient
You need the H/V and H/P - Get the oil quicker through the system help keeps the oil cool and the H/P keeps the big ends and mains happy with the bigger clearances.:)
 

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B.A.M aka "Black Azz Mike
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2,925 Posts
ha ha did you read up on the tread. you can have a extremely high pressure setting on your relief but if it only pumps .5 gpm your never going to get pressure, forget about high pressure worry about getting enough flow to allow the pump to build the correct pressure. im sure the stock pressure settings on the relief is sufficient

I didnt read the whole thread before I started posting. THat was my bad.


I personally use a stock melling pump from autozone. Then I tear it apart to clearance gears,debur, port/polish and chamfer/open up the oil delivery hole on the pump. THen I remove the pressure bypass spring, measure it and then stretch it .500 over the stock length. Then I install the spring and a new grade 8 cotter pin. Lastly I tack weld the pickup to the pump very carefully. The welding usually takes an hour to do. I spot tack and then let cool completely off before proceeding to the next spot tack. THen I port/polish/bore and chamfer the # main cap or wherever the oil pump is being mounted. I them make sure that I have a "hardened" oil pump drive shaft so there is no issues in that dept. It literally costs $10 for a good hardened shaft. Finally, I change the bypass in the filter mount and drill it out, tap it, then install a plug with a lil loctite to secure it.



I never understood why peeps would recommend using a high volume pump on an olds motor. The main issue with the olds is pumping too much oil to the heads and it cant return to the pan fast enuff. Thus, you suck the pan dry and end up roasting the bottom end! Boring the return in the heads helps out alot BUT drilling,tapping and installing external lines to the pan is far better and works wonders (IHMO).

Last but NOT least, use the largest oil pan that you can get and make sure that it has a windage tray or screen with trap doors in it!!!!!!!!!
 

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B.A.M aka "Black Azz Mike
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2,925 Posts

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B.A.M aka "Black Azz Mike
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2,925 Posts
well if your drain plug is already in use go buy a weld in bung, drill out a hole, weld in the bung and a way you go. i never realized there was that much oil backed up in the heads.
You can buy the weldon fittings that has an AN male fitting on it. Just drill the hole in the pan and weld it to the pan. THen use J/B weld around the fitting to ensure a sure seal. It sounds corny but it does work very well.


Me and my father built 10 qt pans for olds out of a stock pan. After we welded them up, we ground down the welds and used j/b weld to seal all the welds. Then we cut 3 large holes in the stock pan where it slopes down. THen welded trap doors on the pan. FIll the pan with diesel fuel to find any leaks. IT works like magic and will find any holes. If it doesnt leak, do a lil cosmetic sanding and paint to match and done :)
 
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