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Thank you for taking the time to answer my question. Looks like I will be in for the same type of fabrication process for my next build. Your "hack job" as you called it looks pretty sweet to me so I would run with it. Lesson learned to make sure you fab it up and find mounting points prior to harmonic balancer install. Please keep up the in depth postings of your builds. Since " GN 7 Bob" passed away RIP there has been a real void of good solid engine information on this forum. Please keep up the great work. There are many of us on the site hungry for more!! Paul
 
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...Can you tell me the manufacturer and part number of that timing pointer?....

Paul
I bought a similar pointer, minus the extension, from Jim @ Good Vibrations Motorsports. You might check with them to see if they still stock them.
I also added an extension to mine to make it easier to line it up precisely.
 

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Discussion Starter #43 (Edited)
Bob was an asset, but sometimes he could come across in a way that you would just use the first half of that word. Those timing pointers are for sale all over. I will say, Jim at Goodvibrations is a great competitor and a wonderful vendor. We raced funny cars against him for years. When you call him for tech support you actually talk to him, and he has used the product. He really knows his stuff.

I will keep this thread going. I love a good write-up and we just are not doing them anymore. We all post glittery pictures and pat each other on the back. Nothing learned. I hope others ask more questions, that way we can all get the synapses firing.

Paul
 

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On pointers like the one your using, once set I always spring punch alignment dots just in case it moves or accidently gets moved during teardowns.
I'm enjoying your build and look foreword to dyno day.
 

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Discussion Starter #45
I love the idea. I am going to do that to this one after paint. Thanks. Well I just taped everything off for paint today. I did get a little better picture of the pointer to see what I did. One thing I did do today was stamp some things on the engine in a couple places. Heaven forbid some low life thief were to make off with it, there are some identifying stamps on it that I know of. That is something I do with all of my builds..

One thing I had mentioned before was in regards to head bolts and head studs. I use head studs everywhere, but on the bolts under the headers on factory heads (or any head that does not have raised exhaust ports) they sit so close to the header flange that head bolts provide more room than head studs. For that reason I use head bolts here. Included are two pictures showing this.

paul

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Great thread Paul!!
Love the punch idea as well as the identification stampings
 

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Just Me
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Love threads like this and identification stampings are a great idea. Took a set of heads in to a shop that I found out had sketchy business practices. When I went to get my heads back, they tried to give me a different set of heads. The distinctive markings were found when I brought a detective back and we looked together. They were sitting on another engine, marked exactly as I had shown the detective before we went there. He told them pull the heads and give me my heads, or get arrested for theft. They grudgingly gave me back my heads.
 

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Discussion Starter #48 (Edited)
Well, have not done anything in the last few days other than be a dad and husband. I thought while I have some time waiting for my 4year old to fall asleep for his nap I would share some other basic info. So the heads that I am using are the gen 5 heads that came on many of the marine 454’s of the time. They are a rectangle port head (akin to the 990 heads of yester years) but with the water passages for the gen 5 style the block has. These came with screw in rocker studs that has a 3/8 thread. ARP makes a replacement screw in stud that is a decent length for adjustable valvetrain but has a 3/8 thread going into the head and 7/16 for the rocker. Well luckily at some point (probably when they were ported) they machined the heads to accept 7/16 standard big block rocker studs. (As a side note, I have used the aforementioned rockers before with a solid roller setup with stud girdles and had no issues, but I would not have felt good about it without the stud girdles). The engines valvetrain previously had been setup using the mid lift theory, and as such had proper pushrods for the crane gold rockers, Howard lifters and the previous cam. Well, the only thing getting changed is the cam. This cam is the same lift, LC and duration is close. The only difference is this one is slightly softer of a profile. They are from the same cam manufacturer and even cut from the same core, so geometry should be pretty dang close. I am running a Herbert cam. It has the gen 6 stepped nose and also has a cast gear for the distributor. This thing is all about reducing maintenance. Herbert cams are decent, but if you are looking to maximize your builds power potential then they are usually not the best option. When I need every bit of power the combo has to offer I call Chris Straub.

One last minute change I am making is valve locks. I got talked into trying a forged lock instead of amachined lock like I have used for years. Well looking at them the other day I did not like the looks of them as they did not seem as uniform. So I bought a set of comp locks like I have used for years on stuff like this. If I am going to take risks I would rather do it with my stuff instead of someone elses. Anyway, that is what the next few posts will look like. One thing I have yet to do is polish the oil pan (it is a beautiful Dan Olsen pan) and once valvetrain is set and the oil pan on I will be mocking up the alternator for him as well as bolting on the flywheel and starter. You will notice crummy cheap valve covers will be on it. He has nice ones he will put on when he gets it so these are just for shipping.

...and it did get paint yesterday so it should stop looking like something uncle Jed dragged across the field that just came out of the rusted out junker to drop in the farms old watering truck.

Paul
 

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Discussion Starter #49
Well I finally got time to stop by and see it with paint. It sure does look cleaner. Now it is going to look as good on the outside as it is nice on the inside. Now a nice 871 and polished Dan Olsen oil pan will make is look great, but it won’t be leaving our shop with the blower. The oil pan, yes! It still has the “painting” valve covers on it so don’t judge those. When the valvetrain is on it will be sporting some cheap chrome tall covers for the ride to the new owners. Now I need time getting this thing setup and check my final details to be ready to ship soon. Also, don’t judge the “custom” dry sump pan that is on it. It is something I welded up myself, poorly patterning it off of a stefs I have here. It was just something I could bolt on to make sure to keep paint and debris out.

Paul

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Just Me
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Looking good! Do you tape over the freeze plugs or put those in after paint?
 

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Discussion Starter #51
I usually put them in after, but being that the engine had not even fired since they were installed I just taped them off. That is just my preference.

Paul
 

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Discussion Starter #52
Well I got the valvetrain all set up. I dropped the lifters in and lubed the pushrod tips and dropped the rockers on and then the stud girdles. The geometry still looked good. I did change valve locks and after measuring I needed .015 shims to keep my installed height. I then see the lash at .025 as that is the lash setting, and since the heads and block are iron and won’t grow much the lash should be close. In fact the lash should tighten up a couple thousandths based on what I have seen in the past. All the top end is now wrapped up and ready to ship. I got the oil pickup installed, but found there needs to be some adjustments need to be made to the pan. I will skip the pan issues and name brand for now.
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Discussion Starter #55
Got the oil pan back from manufacturer. It fits “better” but not impressed. As such I will refrain from promoting the brand. I need to make a few more adjustments on it, and then polish it. There will be no stickers on it when done. Bummer we have to do this crap.

Paul
 

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Discussion Starter #56
Well I got a nice polish job on the oil pan, and did a little bit of “custom” work on it to get it to fit. I am now satisfied and bolted it down. Should look and work very well in a beautiful runner bottom. Now I need to mount up the flywheel and get the starter properly setup and the alternator mounted and then it ships out. Not bad for a hack. LOL

Paul



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I just read the whole thread. Thank you for doing such a good step by step. Should make some good power
 

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Discussion Starter #59
While waiting for the alternator mount that USPS has lost I replaced the timing cover bolts with stainless Allen head bolts. It is the little details that go a long way

Paul
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