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Discussion Starter #1
I have been following the stroke to bore thread with great interest. The views and knowledge amaze me. I am thinking about building a new motor. I am from old school. I know that things have changed alot and I am looking for advice. I used to run a high deck simease block(482ci). It had a HTC crank with carrillo rods full isky rollers with LS1 chevy heads (can-am) with a Hilborn A injectors. The engine was 11:1. What would you use. I am looking for about 1.85hp per ci. I am in favor of a long stroke. Any ideas?
 

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steelcomp was here
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I have been following the stroke to bore thread with great interest. The views and knowledge amaze me. I am thinking about building a new motor. I am from old school. I know that things have changed alot and I am looking for advice. I used to run a high deck simease block(482ci). It had a HTC crank with carrillo rods full isky rollers with LS1 chevy heads (can-am) with a Hilborn A injectors. The engine was 11:1. What would you use. I am looking for about 1.85hp per ci. I am in favor of a long stroke. Any ideas?
What HP/rpm range do you need to work in? That's a pretty low CR for that much power/ci. 500ci is the limit?
Your combo was 4.25 squared in a tall deck? 6.800 rod?
I think I might go with the same stroke and a 4.32 bore for a 498, more compression and updated heads. Should make your 1.75/ci. You're at 1.6 on the rod, which IMO is good. If you want to save some recip weight, you can go short deck and run a 6.385 rod (typical for the 4.25 crank). Your upper end Q will suffer a little, and a slight bit more wear and tear on parts, but might be a bit better down in lower rpms. If you want to make the power upstairs, (7500-8000 range) I'd stick with the tall deck and longer rods.
JMO
 

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Your right we were about 13-1. The engine ran at 7800 but I would wing it to 8200-8300 and piss my builder off. the only thing that we distroyed was springs. a bunch. I am looking for input on new tech. to build a 850-950 hp injected alky motor. That will live. With all the different opions on stroke,bore, block and rotating assembly I am curious what you guys come up with. Lets keep it under 20K.
 

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steelcomp was here
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Your right we were about 13-1. The engine ran at 7800 but I would wing it to 8200-8300 and piss my builder off. the only thing that we distroyed was springs. a bunch. I am looking for input on new tech. to build a 850-950 hp injected alky motor. That will live. With all the different opions on stroke,bore, block and rotating assembly I am curious what you guys come up with. Lets keep it under 20K.
Well, you can easily spend half that in a good set of heads, all said and done.:D
New tech= more $$. Head choices are baffling. Custom cam grind would be a must, along with shaft rockers and hi tech springs/valves. Piston and ring technology has come a long way, and oil control. Dry sump would be best, but there are some excellent wet sump, external pump systems. Header tech has followed suit. Of course choosing the parts as a combination is key, and a meticulous build with proper machining, clearances, balancing, and attention to detail, etc. A build to be taken seriously for sure.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
What HP/rpm range do you need to work in? That's a pretty low CR for that much power/ci. 500ci is the limit?
Your combo was 4.25 squared in a tall deck? 6.800 rod?
I think I might go with the same stroke and a 4.32 bore for a 498, more compression and updated heads. Should make your 1.75/ci. You're at 1.6 on the rod, which IMO is good. If you want to save some recip weight, you can go short deck and run a 6.385 rod (typical for the 4.25 crank). Your upper end Q will suffer a little, and a slight bit more wear and tear on parts, but might be a bit better down in lower rpms. If you want to make the power upstairs, (7500-8000 range) I'd stick with the tall deck and longer rods.
JMO
Yes it was a squared and 6.8 rod. I had more than enough low end but out pulled the gear about 3/4 of the way in the straights. I am just looking for ideas for the next great engine.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Well, you can easily spend half that in a good set of heads, all said and done.:D
New tech= more $$. Head choices are baffling. Custom cam grind would be a must, along with shaft rockers and hi tech springs/valves. Piston and ring technology has come a long way, and oil control. Dry sump would be best, but there are some excellent wet sump, external pump systems. Header tech has followed suit. Of course choosing the parts as a combination is key, and a meticulous build with proper machining, clearances, balancing, and attention to detail, etc. A build to be taken seriously for sure.
Dry sump will be a must. I guess the question is after market blocks. I understand that my high nickel simease block is out dated. I have been raising a family and I want to get back in the game. I appreaciate the responces.
 

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steelcomp was here
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Dry sump will be a must. I guess the question is after market blocks. I understand that my high nickel simease block is out dated. I have been raising a family and I want to get back in the game. I appreaciate the responces.
IMO, your block is the least outdated of all...a new block might net you a few extra HP over the one you have, but there are other areas of greater gain.
To be honest, "old school" isn't all that old, or bad. Bore that thing, put some more compression in it and a modern piston/ring package, get some better heads with modern valve train, and a cam to go with.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
IMO, your block is the least outdated of all...a new block might net you a few extra HP over the one you have, but there are other areas of greater gain.
To be honest, "old school" isn't all that old, or bad. Bore that thing, put some more compression in it and a modern piston/ring package, get some better heads with modern valve train, and a cam to go with.
I should have said the engine that I gave away was. I have to start over. Thanks for the reply
 

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Dart or Merlin. Very tough blocks.

Eagle H beam rods are a popular choice, but spend the money on the good rod bolts. Eagle also makes a good crank.

Some great heads out there. RHS seems to be popular now, and are pretty good out of the box. There's others too, Dart for one. This is going to be an area where you spend some bucks. You can get the bare heads for $1K to $2.5K, but you'll double that in high RPM nice pieces.

A lot of discussion about crank trigger ignitions on here lately. Might be something to look into before you get too far along.
 

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Rocket, it's now secrete I'm a Ford nut and I don't know much about building a Chevy, however Steel and some other's here do. But if I was going to build a Chevy I'd check these guy's out before I spent any money on my own build their pricing is damn hard to beat :

http://www.rehermorrison.com/superSeries/540.htm

I wonder what they could do for an application like yours ?

One of the best known names in the industry.

edit: this engine is bad ass: http://www.rehermorrison.com/superSeries/427 15Deg.htm

Good luck on your build.

Sleeper CP :D
 

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Village Idiot
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We should have met up at Fireturd and we could have talked about this.LOL I personally am a fan of big bore engines. Are you looking at going PS legal, or are you looking for something to play with that happens to be similar to the PS stuff? If you were looking to build a play motor I would probably go with a 509 or 540. You can get great power and still spin a reasonable RPM without having stuff too heavy. If you are planning on racing, I would think about going with a 3.75 stroke (give or take) and go with a bigger bore. Like Steelcomp has said, there are some great heads out there that can really help to make the most out of your combo.

I would love to see you out racing your boat again. Heck, I would just love to see it on the water. I am looking forward to seeing this happen. If you need anything just yell, I am sure I will hear you from my house.

Paul
 
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