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I picked up a couple 6-71 Blowers today. These were from some sort of a flour blower in a Pizza Factory....Im kinda wondering what it will take to rebuild one of these. Its a regular 6-71 Blower. I will post a picture of one of them. Can I just buy seals and gaskets? Id like to run this on my BBC that has a B&M 250 on it now...
 

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well thanks for all the INFO!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!:)hammers I spoke to BDS today and I showed him a picture of one of them. They are the correct type of a blower. What will it take to run one of these?
 

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well thanks for all the INFO!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!:)hammers I spoke to BDS today and I showed him a picture of one of them. They are the correct type of a blower. What will it take to run one of these?
Do your'e self a favor and go back to BDS and ask that question. I have ran 6-71 blowers on a couple or four small big blocks and been nothing but happy! Or you could always run a 14-71 and under drive the hell out of it. JUST ASK THE GUYS THAT KNOW!!! BDS! M
 

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well thanks for all the INFO!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!:)hammers I spoke to BDS today and I showed him a picture of one of them. They are the correct type of a blower. What will it take to run one of these?
Its possible that BDS or the Blower Shop or RBS can set them up if they are in good shape. First off, they were never intended for high rpm operation and the bearing plates front and rear are not up to the boost loads and RPM of a engine. They were never intended to create boost pressure. They will require reinforcing rings around the bearing bores at a minimum, or better yet, new stronger bearing plates. Depends on the boost and RPM your asking for.
The clearances are wrong and need to be reset. The rotors may even need to be trimmed slightly to reduce their diameter. Diesel and "air mover" blowers are usually set up tighter because there is no load or RPM to bend or twist the rotor. The gears may not be up to boost pressures. Depends on the era they were made. Later ones have weaker gears than earlier ones.

You might be able to use the cases, possibly the rotors, if your really lucky, the bearing plates with some modifications. But no, you cannot set them up your self with new bearings and seals. And that was yor original question.



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Do your'e self a favor and go back to BDS and ask that question. I have ran 6-71 blowers on a couple or four small big blocks and been nothing but happy! Or you could always run a 14-71 and under drive the hell out of it. JUST ASK THE GUYS THAT KNOW!!! BDS! M
I picked up a couple 6-71 Blowers today. These were from some sort of a flour blower in a Pizza Factory....Im kinda wondering what it will take to rebuild one of these. Its a regular 6-71 Blower. I will post a picture of one of them. Can I just buy seals and gaskets? Id like to run this on my BBC that has a B&M 250 on it now...
Didn't read the question again did you Ol Guy? My response had nothing to do with the SIZE of the blower, it had to do with the questiion he asked. Go ahead, tell him its OK to by bearings and seals and everything will be fine. You've done it hundreds of times:)sphss



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You'll need gears as well as the bearing plates. Most stock 6-71 gears are cast iron and NOT suitable for boost, high rpm or both.
 

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See, your simply too young:D Those good ole blowers off the WWII landing craft had steel gears. I know, I have one:thumb:

But yes, like I said in the post, newer ones are made cheaper and have iron gears. Damn bean counters!
As I said..."Most 6-71s" most of the forged gear 6-71s are at the bottom of the English Channel.:D
 

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Didn't read the question again did you Ol Guy? My response had nothing to do with the SIZE of the blower, it had to do with the questiion he asked. Go ahead, tell him its OK to by bearings and seals and everything will be fine. You've done it hundreds of times:)sphss
This is friggin stupid, I did not read what you posted up. Just cant wait to pick can you:)sphss I never stated hundreds of times I did say a couple or four. Feel better!!! And to state a fact I told him to go to BDS and ask them. They know what they are doing with blowers! M
 

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Couple of other reasons you can't use it "as is" is because stock GM blowers had a locating ledge down the left side looking from the front, that help locate the blower on the side of the Gimme 6. This rib interferes with most blower manifolds. The blower bolt also, is not symetrical. It has a stagger left to right side. It can only mount on a blower manifold one way. Since this was not a Gimme 6 application, there is no way to know if it is driven from the correct end, or even in the right direction. It may need to have the rotors and drive gears flipped over, or flopped end for end.

Bottom line, you need to have a blower shop determine its feasability for use as a supercharger on an engine.



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Couple of other reasons you can't use it "as is" is because stock GM blowers had a locating ledge down the left side looking from the front, that help locate the blower on the side of the Gimme 6. This rib interferes with most blower manifolds. The blower bolt also, is not symetrical. It has a stagger left to right side. It can only mount on a blower manifold one way. Since this was not a Gimme 6 application, there is no way to know if it is driven from the correct end, or even in the right direction. It may need to have the rotors and drive gears flipped over, or flopped end for end.

Bottom line, you need to have a blower shop determine its feasability for use as a supercharger on an engine.
How do you know this stuff???
 

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How do you know this stuff???
Any time I see some one ask about using a industrial roots for a performance supercharger, alarm bells an sirens go off. Long before GM used the roots blower for the Gimme diesel, it was used for moving air. Primarily for mine shafts. There are way more roots blowers out there being used for things other than Gimme diesels. Like the OP said, his are from some grain mover. Very common use, as are refineries, which is here I see most of them. More and more roots are being replaced with Lysholm screw type(Whipple).

This would be considered a small screw compressor. These things can get down right huge. NO! that is not me!


Then there is always the over grown turbocharger type. We installed these two at the Glen Canyon Dam at Lake Powell. I need to check with Hass or Unchained to find out how much horsepower they think one of these could produce. All these "pressure booosters" we drop on our engines were not originally designed for that. The roots was developed decades before the first internal combustion engine



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I picked up a couple 6-71 Blowers today. These were from some sort of a flour blower in a Pizza Factory....Im kinda wondering what it will take to rebuild one of these. Its a regular 6-71 Blower. I will post a picture of one of them. Can I just buy seals and gaskets? Id like to run this on my BBC that has a B&M 250 on it now...
there is a whole lot more to it than that.
 

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Its possible that BDS or the Blower Shop or RBS can set them up if they are in good shape. First off, they were never intended for high rpm operation and the bearing plates front and rear are not up to the boost loads and RPM of a engine. They were never intended to create boost pressure. They will require reinforcing rings around the bearing bores at a minimum, or better yet, new stronger bearing plates. Depends on the boost and RPM your asking for.
The clearances are wrong and need to be reset. The rotors may even need to be trimmed slightly to reduce their diameter. Diesel and "air mover" blowers are usually set up tighter because there is no load or RPM to bend or twist the rotor. The gears may not be up to boost pressures. Depends on the era they were made. Later ones have weaker gears than earlier ones.

You might be able to use the cases, possibly the rotors, if your really lucky, the bearing plates with some modifications. But no, you cannot set them up your self with new bearings and seals. And that was yor original question.
I have two 671 I set up no problem...but not worth the expense of new end plates, bearings , gears, seals, etc. You replace everything except the rotors and the case and they are modified ( and you need a machine shop to do this)
 

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Well te price was RIGHT.....:wink2: And I should have worded this what will it take to convert a 6-71 to be used as a SUPERCHARGER? I also think that alot of people on here have more money then brains....I run this boat maybe 7-8 times a year. Its a SHORT SEASON....Not going to spend some crazy money on a blower to use it a few times. Its not a "Race Boat" I have more fun towing this to the Lake because people love to take pictures of it. I was never going to just bolt this on a motor and let it FLY!!!! Im also not spinning the motor at 7,500 rpm's...But Thanks for the Input!!!!
 

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Well te price was RIGHT.....:wink2: And I should have worded this what will it take to convert a 6-71 to be used as a SUPERCHARGER? I also think that alot of people on here have more money then brains....I run this boat maybe 7-8 times a year. Its a SHORT SEASON....Not going to spend some crazy money on a blower to use it a few times. Its not a "Race Boat" I have more fun towing this to the Lake because people love to take pictures of it. I was never going to just bolt this on a motor and let it FLY!!!! Im also not spinning the motor at 7,500 rpm's...But Thanks for the Input!!!!
Not trying to talk you out of it. You kjust need to know its not a bolt on deal.

Just one more ahhhhh, the drive snout, what ever it is now, is not a snout compatable with any blower pulleys. So you can add then as well.
For you use, you may not need to reinforce the bearing plates. But keep in mind, that thing probably never saw the far side of 2500 RPM. So even if you run it 1 to 1, and turn the engine 5000, you just doubled the rpm AND any boost is more pressure than it ever made.



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How do you know this stuff???
Here is a blower driven off the flywheel end. You'll notice that it has had the rotors flipped end for end in the case because you can't simply spin the blower around, the bolt patter is staggered side to side, AND the drive pulley is driving the left rotor looking at the front, compared to the normal right side rotor. Because of the rotation direction as veiwed from the back of the motor.

Its very common for industrial blowers to be assembled ever way possible. Its WHY they are the blowers are built the way they are. So everything can be fliped or rotated as required.

Offy Indy engines were build the same way. Want the exhaust on right side, spin the head.



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Here is a blower driven off the flywheel end. You'll notice that it has had the rotors flipped end for end in the case because you can't simply spin the blower around, the bolt patter is staggered side to side, AND the drive pulley is driving the left rotor looking at the front, compared to the normal right side rotor. Because of the rotation direction as veiwed from the back of the motor.

Its very common for industrial blowers to be assembled ever way possible. Its WHY they are the blowers are built the way they are. So everything can be fliped or rotated as required.

Offy Indy engines were build the same way. Want the exhaust on right side, spin the head.
we run our dry sump and injecter pump and the balancer off the flywheel end
 
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