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Discussion Starter #1
Hello,
I recently acquired a pretty sweet little ride in a 73 Eliminator with the BBF Harden Marine 460ci. Starts up and runs awesome but I am having an issue with the Logs and Snails getting real hot (Can keep my finger on them for roughly a second before burns) while running on the hose. I have the set-up with the valve that will open and close to restrict water from the pump and attached to that is a garden hose type connections to turn open in order to flush the system. It has no leaks and when I turn the garden hose on (after the engine is started), it runs smoothly out of the back of the Berkeley jet drive, but the logs and snails seem to get extremely hot in roughly 3-4 minutes of idling. Have not water tested yet as this worries me already of getting stranded and I would rather fix prior to water testing if an issue seemed to arise. I don't feel there is any restrictions in the hoses but will double check all of those tonight by running water through them. I will also take out the manifold drain plugs tonight to see if maybe there is some sand in the block. Other than that, what else should I be looking for? Thanks for any and all help.
 

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Hello,
I recently acquired a pretty sweet little ride in a 73 Eliminator with the BBF Harden Marine 460ci. Starts up and runs awesome but I am having an issue with the Logs and Snails getting real hot (Can keep my finger on them for roughly a second before burns) while running on the hose. I have the set-up with the valve that will open and close to restrict water from the pump and attached to that is a garden hose type connections to turn open in order to flush the system. It has no leaks and when I turn the garden hose on (after the engine is started), it runs smoothly out of the back of the Berkeley jet drive, but the logs and snails seem to get extremely hot in roughly 3-4 minutes of idling. Have not water tested yet as this worries me already of getting stranded and I would rather fix prior to water testing if an issue seemed to arise. I don't feel there is any restrictions in the hoses but will double check all of those tonight by running water through them. I will also take out the manifold drain plugs tonight to see if maybe there is some sand in the block. Other than that, what else should I be looking for? Thanks for any and all help.
A shot of how it is plumbed would help. sand packing is a deffinate possibility as is the valve coming out of the pump. I have seen blocks so full of sand you had a hard time pulling the freeze plugs on a rebuild. If the engine is plumbed logs to block a good sand pack could restrict water from leaving the logs and vice versa. plumbing pics will tell the story. I would also like to see a pick of the boat as I had an early eliminator 21 cruiser here in so cal. Mark
 

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So you have a "T" in the line at the water supply line between the pump and the motor and that's where you are attaching your water supply hose line? Have you disconnected that line and connected the water supply hose directly to the motor supply line only, to see what happens? Does water run out the exhaust tips only then? It should with low pressure from the hose once the block/system is full.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Sorry for getting back late Gents, I am military and was away at training. So I do not have a "T" on mine, but it looks like I have the edelbrock performer manifold that has a thermostat housing that has been blocked off and has 2 lines running from it to the logs. I also have an engine block off plate at the front of the engine with what looks to be 1 hose running that I am pretty sure connects with the pump. The logs have 2 lines running from them, one to the block off plate/t-stat housing, and the other to what looks to be the backside of the snails. I will work on better pics this evening as I want to ensure my plumbing is set up correctly.
 

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tintingsandiego
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Looks like you have the better log... through bolt. If you have a gate valve at pump, run it all the way open all the time on a BBF. The pic to route water flow is a great reference check. But basically you have a water outlet at pump ( gate valve) to T SPLIT, then each line running to front of log, then out of log to the block off plate, then from manifold to snail... done.
 

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Pull the water lines off the logs and see if you can blow compressed air through them freely. That should tell you if you have blockage in there. If all seems good, start pulling other hoses off 1 at a time and see if you find blockage.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Found the culprit, pulled every line and ran water through them. All were good until I got to the block off plate. Both were clogged with a white gooey substance that I suspect to be salt deposits. Ended up breaking off one of the bolts on the front of the block off plates when trying to remove it to clean it out, the salt must have ate through the aluminum because as I was loosening it, it just basically fell out. New block off plate is on order but for now, I JB Welded the elbow back on and put some water proof silicone around it as a temporary fix just to get some cool water running through the engine for a good clean out and to ensure all the lines are now unclogged. Definitely a temporary fix and will probably do some small putting around the bay with it but nothing wide open yet until I get the new block off plate. Thanks for all the help and info Gents
 

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Considering the problems you have been experiencing, you may want to use a bright flash lite to look at the inside surface of the large Exaust hoses between tips and rizers , although they may appear OK for the inside , lack of water supply can cause them to blister and burn from the inside out ....
 

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Discussion Starter #10
I plan to replace all of the lines but thanks. I will run it no more than 20-30 minutes before I install all new lines and block off plate
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Got it, thanks, I will check them tonight with a flash light and if they look bubbled, I will replace. Thank you for the tip. Other than a new block off plate, I should be ready to hit the water
 

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Discussion Starter #13
So far it seems my temporary jb weld fix is holding up. Started her up and ran her on the hose for around 10 minutes and temp gauge was reading around 140 and she was spitting pretty good out both exhausts. Logs were still pretty hot but I'm guessing they will be either way. Snails were around the same temp as the logs. Tomorrow is the maiden voyage for the day cruiser and I hope all goes well. Won't go full throttle just yet but will put around the bay. I will make sure the gate valve is open all the way as well. Will let you all know how it goes
 

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Discussion Starter #14
all went pretty well today on the water. took her out for around an hour, putting around she stayed at 140 and I took her WOT for a minute or two and she snuck up to around 150 but no higher, seemed to run great. My only concern now is I think one of the tappets might need tightened as I get a little tick from under the cover. I dont beleive its anything alarming as the engine runs strong, probably just an adjustment. All seems to be running fine out of both exhausts now.
 

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that's awesome rh. nothing like the feeling of a successful maiden voyage. when I read your post yesterday i was glad to hear you found the problem and it was relatively simple to cure. it also left me wondering about the condition of the other components in the cooling system since the water pump cover plate was rotted thru from slat water apparently. It also left me with one other concerne/question, how's your bilge pump? is it an automatic on/off type deal? Is it large enough to save the boat in the event of a cooling hose failure or popping off? with enclosed engine compartments like these have you usually don't know when somethings gone wrong until it's very (too) late in the game. My first boat was a 73 cruiser like yours only had the 455 olds/berk package. great boat, lots of gooood memories in that beauty, I was in my early 20's. :wink2: post up some pics of yours when you get a chance.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
It's actually a switch by the steering wheel and works well. I open the hatch about every 10 minutes to check for any leaks and luckily where we go boating is less than a mile long so if we did start taking on any water I think we would be good. I plan to run some salt away thru the engine for a good bit to clean out as much as I can and let it sit in there for a day or two then blow it all out with fresh water. She seems to be cooling well right now though and is spitting out the exhaust nicely.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Also, I just replaced the oil and filter with VR1 20w50 racing oil. With my tapping, I feel it's probably a stuck lifter. Should I put some ATF in the oil, let her idle for 30 minutes then change the oil again? I hear ATF works well for taking care of stuck lifter issues. The ticking is only coming from the right side (passenger side) cover so pretty sure it's probably a lifter. Thanks
 

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Also, I just replaced the oil and filter with VR1 20w50 racing oil. With my tapping, I feel it's probably a stuck lifter. Should I put some ATF in the oil, let her idle for 30 minutes then change the oil again? I hear ATF works well for taking care of stuck lifter issues. The ticking is only coming from the right side (passenger side) cover so pretty sure it's probably a lifter. Thanks
might do you some good to pull the valve covers and check the valve train (rockers and pushrods and stands) With a stuck lifter it could be possible you bent a push rod or split a rocker at the center. M
 
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