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ok, so i buy a truck that was supposed to have nothing wrong with it:mad:
lets start with the a/c, it will not come on. i can jump the switch at the condensor and it will engage the clutch, if the system is empty of freon will the switch not work and turn on the compressor? its a 1996 gmc truck. i will work through the problems one by one.:|err
 

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ok, so i buy a truck that was supposed to have nothing wrong with it:mad:
lets start with the a/c, it will not come on. i can jump the switch at the condensor and it will engage the clutch, if the system is empty of freon will the switch not work and turn on the compressor? its a 1996 gmc truck. i will work through the problems one by one.:|err
That, i believe, is a cycling switch which turns the clutch off to protect the compressor when there is a low freon problem. I had one of those switches go bad too. LIkely a seal somewhere is leaking and the switch is doing it 's job. I'm no AC tech though, i'm sure impatient1 or someone else will pipe up here shortly..just my 2 cents.
 

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ok, so i buy a truck that was supposed to have nothing wrong with it:mad:
lets start with the a/c, it will not come on. i can jump the switch at the condensor and it will engage the clutch, if the system is empty of freon will the switch not work and turn on the compressor? its a 1996 gmc truck. i will work through the problems one by one.:|err
as mentioned, its low on freon and the accumulator cyclin switch is just protecting the compressor.go buy a recharged kit and charge it up.it should hold round 2lbs, or say about 2 1/2 cans of r134a





fyi, the condensor is the lil a/c/ radiator in frt of your engines radiator:D
 

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the switch is by the firewall on the rightside on the silver round tank.
accumulator ;)


check and see if the terminals in teh connector are good and tight, i see guys stick test lites in them all the time and loosen the terminals to the point they can no longer make good contact with the cycling switch terminals
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
accumulator ;)


check and see if the terminals in teh connector are good and tight, i see guys stick test lites in them all the time and loosen the terminals to the point they can no longer make good contact with the cycling switch terminals
the terminals are tight, does not look like it has been messed with before
 

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so if it comes on it has freon in it then, correct ?
no means either its low or the cycling pressure switch is bad. i'd bet on low freon level as the culprit. go get a r134a recharge kit and charge it back up;) look for some freon that comes with uv dye installed in the can, it'll make finding the leak a breeze:)bulb
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
no means either its low or the cycling pressure switch is bad. i'd bet on low freon level as the culprit. go get a r134a recharge kit and charge it back up;) look for some freon that comes with uv dye installed in the can, it'll make finding the leak a breeze:)bulb
ok thanks, i will try this first.
 

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Jump the switch for a minute or two having the A/C on full blast to see if any cold air comes out. That is where I would start. The schrader valves tend to go bad after 10+ years. Those poor little orings are under alot of pressure and adverse conditions under the hood. So my point is clean up around the schrader valve with solvent after putting in the can of charge with the dye so you can see if it is leaking there. If you can find a can of dye plus a sealer/oring conditioner, you might want to start with that. follow the directions though and add some more 134 as a chaser to flush the valve and your charge line.
 

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no means either its low or the cycling pressure switch is bad. i'd bet on low freon level as the culprit. go get a r134a recharge kit and charge it back up;) look for some freon that comes with uv dye installed in the can, it'll make finding the leak a breeze:)bulb

I bought one of those recharge kits at Wal-Mart 2 weeks ago and it worked great. If thats the problem that is.
 
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