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Or Seth, either one
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Discussion Starter #1
I'm not sure what brand cam is in the engine, but it's a solid flat tappet. What is a good # to set lash at. For some reason I have 0.020 cold and 0.016 hot in my mind, but wanted to run it by you guys first.

Thanks guys!
 

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I'm not sure what brand cam is in the engine, but it's a solid flat tappet. What is a good # to set lash at. For some reason I have 0.020 cold and 0.016 hot in my mind, but wanted to run it by you guys first.

Thanks guys!
Typicaly (with an aluminum headed engine) it would be .016 cold and .020 hot. Depending of course on cylinder head material (cast iron vs. alum.), valve train type (Stud mounted vs. Shaft mounted, Steel rockers vs. alumunum rockers) and delta between ambient and operating temps (cold vs. hot).
 

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It really isn't that fussy. I'd go with 0.020 cold, get it good and hot and check the difference. You have to get in there fairly quick while everything is still hot. Iron head big blocks usually close up a bit, some aluminum head deals will open up a little. As long as it's still at least 0.015, you're fine.
 

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It really isn't that fussy. I'd go with 0.020 cold, get it good and hot and check the difference. You have to get in there fairly quick while everything is still hot. Iron head big blocks usually close up a bit, some aluminum head deals will open up a little. As long as it's still at least 0.015, you're fine.
Ya......your right. None of this shit matters and close is good enough (my bad). Set it at .020 cold and check it next year!!:)sphss
 

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Hey Warp, nice to see you put a pic of a Ford in your sig. line....:)hand:D:D:D
 

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It's what we do
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It really isn't that fussy. I'd go with 0.020 cold, get it good and hot and check the difference. You have to get in there fairly quick while everything is still hot. Iron head big blocks usually close up a bit, some aluminum head deals will open up a little. As long as it's still at least 0.015, you're fine.
Your kidding.... right?
 

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Or Seth, either one
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Discussion Starter #9 (Edited)
It really isn't that fussy. I'd go with 0.020 cold, get it good and hot and check the difference. You have to get in there fairly quick while everything is still hot. Iron head big blocks usually close up a bit, some aluminum head deals will open up a little. As long as it's still at least 0.015, you're fine.
Your kidding.... right?
OK, got the sarcasm. But, no input. You're usually full of great info.

Care to shed some light?

396 BBC factory iron, stock stamped rocker arms, solid flat tappet cam and lifters, unknown cam manufacturer, cam age etc. Could be stock for all I know.

I set them at 0.020 cold and this is what I got.


Ran out of time and didn't get to check hot clearance. It would be great to have some more input if you guys have it.

Thanks guys,
-Seth-
 

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It's what we do
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OK, got the sarcasm. But, no input. You're usually full of great info.

Care to shed some light?

396 BBC factory iron, stock stamped rocker arms, solid flat tappet cam and lifters, unknown cam manufacturer, cam age etc. Could be stock for all I know.

I set them at 0.020 cold and this is what I got.


Ran out of time and didn't get to check hot clearance. It would be great to have some more input if you guys have it.

Thanks guys,
-Seth-
Sorry for the sarcasm, it was not directed at you or DetroitJim in particular. Sometimes the advise given here can be dangerous and there was not enough info to make a guess.
I can't speak for Warp, but I'm sure he'll agree valve lash IS important. The design of the lobe is crucial to the lash. Your first post did not give enough info to make a sugestion. It could have been a Ford, Chevy, or??? with aluminum heads designed to run 8000 rpms or cast iron and 5000 rpms. Now that we know what you have, except for the cam, I believe a safe starting point would be .020 int. & .022 exh. cold.
 
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