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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
So I mentioned what I had in mind in another thread. Was waiting for someone to tell me I was a crazy Redbneck Hillbilly Okie.

Thought maybe I had thought something up inovative only to find out that one or some of the guys that drag raced the Rogers Dragstar had done the same thing back in the day.

So we tested it last night.........

With the boat sitting dead still Info Jr. flat foots it. The bow does not rise. The boat shoots fwd to the top of the water takes a set and is gone. He says he counts to two and lets the plate to full up.

Will see how it works out for us this weekend in Choteau. I need to take a video.
 

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So I mentioned what I had in mind in another thread. Was waiting for someone to tell me I was a crazy Redbneck Hillbilly Okie.

Thought maybe I had thought something up inovative only to find out that one or some of the guys that drag raced the Rogers Dragstar had done the same thing back in the day.

So we tested it last night.........

With the boat sitting dead still Info Jr. flat foots it. The bow does not rise. The boat shoots fwd to the top of the water takes a set and is gone. He says he counts to two and lets the plate to full up.

Will see how it works out for us this weekend in Choteau. I need to take a video.
that is sweet:)devili myself have things adjusted on mine so when i take off the bow does not rise and it pushes forward rather than take off for the sky like alot of guys do,then i hit the diverter to the fifth hole on a count of 2 myself:Dim not as fast as you but i have found this to be quite the helper in cove racing:)sphss
 

· Resident Ford Nut
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I thought thats what a Place Diverter was for ?

:)bulb:)bulb I guess since a "cable operated" diverter has some degree of slop in it if you fixed the nozzle at 6* and adjusted the plate from a neg* position at the start and then kicked it up to 4* rigid that would work.

Or you could use a hydraulic diverter and put a "stop" on it.

S CP :D
 

· mo balls than $cents$
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I thought thats what a Place Diverter was for ?

:)bulb:)bulb I guess since a "cable operated" diverter has some degree of slop in it if you fixed the nozzle at 6* and adjusted the plate from a neg* position at the start and then kicked it up to 4* rigid that would work.

Or you could use a hydraulic diverter and put a "stop" on it.

S CP :D
i think he has the plate attached to the divertor, am i wrong on that info?
 

· lol, right.....
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PICTURES!:)bulb

How many degrees full down and full up?
Found this pic:


And the description:

Thanks guys, its getting close to lighting this thing off and doing a little cam break in. I'm actually getting a nevous about that.

Yes its an adjustable ride plate. It seems to be a one off deal. I talk to Jack McClure and Jim Brock at the Mortorhead Madness show but neather one of them knew anything about it. Later talked to Roger and he thought there was a possibility that it could have been fab up by someone at Airflow Reserch. They had one of his boats back in the 70's. It was originally set up with a superwinch motor under the seat, but i thought it would be cooler with a manual adjuster. Roger didn't see any real practical advantage of having it but it is a unique piece to that boat. Maybe someday someone will recognize it and give some history on this boat.
Link to the thread: Bonneville Project
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Yea the plates nozzle and ride plate go up and down with the pedal.

No pics yet. It's butt ugly lol

The cav plates have 2 rods that go through the transom. One each side of the pump. Unlike a v-drive that has one. I connected the diverter nozzle cable to the rod that goes across the stringers inside the boat. I didnt think this up, it was by suggestion.

I put a flat plate along the inside edge of each cav plate sticking a few inches past the plates. Put a "T" on the top surface of the ride plate where the cradle was mounted and a 1 3/8 vertical piece to connect them.

Degrees of travel? The nozzle is set to make about a 2' high roost full up. How far down it goes? dont know.

The ride plate moves just over 1/4 inch. Not a lot but enough. Have a mechanical stop that hits the bowl for full up. The fixed position it was in is about mid travel now.

So really I just set the max up on everything and they go down as much as they do. Cav plates and ride plate are mechanical and beefy. nozzle is still cable operated.

And .... lol were just running the 11 second class at the drags. For now
 

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Pics dammit, I need piiiiiics! Even if it looks cobbled together, rough prototypes are a thing of beauty. Innovation at its finest...

Not to thread jack but the pic above shows the rams horn style reverse bucket. Do these work better and give better manuvering in reverse? My reverse SUCKS... an oak leaf to reach down and paddle with is better.
 

· mo balls than $cents$
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Pics dammit, I need piiiiiics!

Not to thread jack but the pic above shows the rams horn style reverse bucket. Do these work better and give better manuvering in reverse? My reverse SUCKS... an oak leaf to reach down and paddle with is better.
i think they work just as good imo, plus they don't stir up as much debris under the boat as the regular style does. most racers use it as a neutral.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
We picked up another 10th with this doodad.

Improved 6 10ths so far tuning the boat only. I think the next step is keel and intake work or possibly a different boat.
 

· Resident Ford Nut
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We picked up another 10th with this doodad.

Improved 6 10ths so far tuning the boat only. I think the next step is keel and intake work or possibly a different boat.
:))eek:))

.6 sec ......Wow :)devil

S CP :D
 

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Look for pix of the old "Hurry Round Hondo KJ" for shots of the inside details. Way back (before Place and Jetovader) cavitation plates were the only way the slow down, keep the turn fins in the water and quickly release the trim for flying straightway speeds. The Hondo used a "specially made fixed nozzle" on a Jacuzzi pump, and it 'turned pretty well'. For drag boats (play boats too) using the V-drive style "foot override with spring control" works very well in controling the ride plate and Place Diverter, even without the outer cavition plates. When controling the Place diverter with a cable and foot control, always build in a POSITIVE UP STOP (your best speed setting) on the nozzle itself. Just in case the cable gets slack or breaks.
 

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I thought thats what a Place Diverter was for ?

S CP :D
I raced a Condor Gullwing back east that had an automatic adjustable diverter on it. Starting with the diverter positioned all the way down, when you nailed the throttle a microswitch on the carb would trigger a system that would slowly raise the diverter as the boat was accelerating. Worked great.

LO
 
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