Performance Boats Forum banner

1 - 20 of 36 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
189 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
I would love to spend the money and buy a stainless. Not in the budget. I have been running 650 HP on an aluminum aftermarket aggressor impeller b-cut. Now i will be putting the N2O to here 225 shot. Is there anyone out there that has been running 850+ HP on an aluminum impeller. I now that when the boat unloads and loads again that's when the like to go Bang. :)bulb
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4,288 Posts
Just my .02, but an impeller is alot cheaper than sinking a boat. Not worth the risk IMO.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
5,717 Posts
I am in no way a pro at this im sure someone will chime in here in a few, but I hear that an aluminum should only be used up to 600Hp, I have seen one flex and crack with less that 500hp, unloading out at Elsinore on a sunny summer morning! spend the money now or later, your gonna spend the money, Buy used! im sure someone has what you want used! what about Mag Bronz? there is a less spendy resolve!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
7,464 Posts
Find it unlikley you would put that much power and a NOS shot to a set of Cast pistons Why would you short your self on the Powertrain by using an aluminum impeller rated for 5oo hp ? food for thought just askin' :D
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
189 Posts
Discussion Starter #5
More i think about it i will install a stainless thanks for knocking some sense into me about this one the time and money put into the engine. Not worth losing the boat or getting heart doing it. I'm locking for a good A/T B cut stainless impeller preferably an aggressor if anyone has a good used one i would be very interested. I did install the heavy duty drive shaft on the pump when i rebuilt it just ran out of money for the stainless. Thanks
 

·
E-7 Sheepdog (ret)
Joined
·
6,834 Posts
More i think about it i will install a stainless thanks for knocking some sense into me about this one the time and money put into the engine. Not worth losing the boat or getting heart doing it. I'm locking for a good A/T B cut stainless impeller preferably an aggressor if anyone has a good used one i would be very interested. I did install the heavy duty drive shaft on the pump when i rebuilt it just ran out of money for the stainless. Thanks
Save half your Stainless money and buy an Aggressor mag Bronze, same nearly unlimited power rating, just don't feed it rocks.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,739 Posts
Save half your Stainless money and buy an Aggressor mag Bronze, same nearly unlimited power rating, just don't feed it rocks.
IMO, i'd stay with the stainless. You can't repair a Mag/bronze impeller. Definitely buy one used. I've seen several in the spam section for 500 and less.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
189 Posts
Discussion Starter #12
Do the American turbine stainless impeller's have the wear ring on the back of the impeller. Hope that's not confusing but the Berk's are flush and A/T have the lip to seal in the bowl. I found an stainless Berk for sale but would really like to keep the lip that seals in the bowl like my current impeller has any thoughts. Thanks and Happy Thanks giving
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,739 Posts
Do the American turbine stainless impeller's have the wear ring on the back of the impeller. Hope that's not confusing but the Berk's are flush and A/T have the lip to seal in the bowl. I found an stainless Berk for sale but would really like to keep the lip that seals in the bowl like my current impeller has any thoughts. Thanks and Happy Thanks giving
Not a big deal, alot of guys run stuffer plates and machine off that lip on the impeller. I'd be interested to see a comparison between a pump with a stuffer plate set up vs. one like you have mentioned.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
419 Posts
Really? If so I stand corrected, but I understood that they were not.
Not so at all.... If you cannot get one repaired Give me a call... I will give you the Rod # Its made for Mag Bronze and is some what standard... Like Stainless it takes High heat, so use a cool rag around controlled surfaces... Or I can get it done for you at several shops.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
419 Posts
Do the American turbine stainless impeller's have the wear ring on the back of the impeller. Hope that's not confusing but the Berk's are flush and A/T have the lip to seal in the bowl. I found an stainless Berk for sale but would really like to keep the lip that seals in the bowl like my current impeller has any thoughts. Thanks and Happy Thanks giving
That lip is non functional as a stuffer.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
5,717 Posts
Machining the Lip!

I have been wondering what benefits or not to the stuffer vs. the inserted lip on AT stuff? I have an AT imp. and the domi bowl, should I remove the lip and add a stuffer? or just leave it? every little bit counts right??
Thanks!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
419 Posts
I have been wondering what benefits or not to the stuffer vs. the inserted lip on AT stuff? I have an AT imp. and the domi bowl, should I remove the lip and add a stuffer? or just leave it? every little bit counts right??
Thanks!
It will charge quicker.... Also on a stuffer have it fit up into the back of the Impeller if you can... It cut's shaft sling down... .around .030 clearance is a good number.... As shafts have a .18 to .020 movement potential. The back ring was originally done by Dominator... and later after selling Dominator he put it on the AMT Impeller when he started it....
 

·
Administrator
Joined
·
16,888 Posts
Yea I would like to have that info.
 
1 - 20 of 36 Posts
Top