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"BEER BUDGET RACING"
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Discussion Starter #1
I'm switching to an air actuated bucket and getting rid of the cable and handle this winter. I have most of the parts to do it, just wanting to see some pics of how others have mounted the actuator and which one they used. I plan on mounting the switch on the steering wheel. thanks in advance
 

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am sure glad you asked this question as i`m in the process of doing the same thing. i have all the parts and am planning to keep the cable and shifter. i`ll have a on/offswitch on the steering wheel and another switch on the carb to trigger the actuator at wot. when the person on the starting barge says "watch the clock" i`ll flip the switch on the steering wheel. the bimba valve will open the bucket at wot and also push the shifter handle forward into a notched and locked position. i can then turn off the steering wheel switch and have control of the bucket with the shifter handle. i ordered the actuator from Contender Performance Products Inc.. 740-927-0060. its a 12 volt 3 way air/co2 shut off valve with 1/8" npt ports and no bigger than a pack of cigarettes. the cost was about $70. i`ll be watching this topic and will also be open to any better ideas.
 

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am sure glad you asked this question as i`m in the process of doing the same thing. i have all the parts and am planning to keep the cable and shifter. i`ll have a on/offswitch on the steering wheel and another switch on the carb to trigger the actuator at wot. when the person on the starting barge says "watch the clock" i`ll flip the switch on the steering wheel. the bimba valve will open the bucket at wot and also push the shifter handle forward into a notched and locked position. i can then turn off the steering wheel switch and have control of the bucket with the shifter handle. i ordered the actuator from Contender Performance Products Inc.. 740-927-0060. its a 12 volt 3 way air/co2 shut off valve with 1/8" npt ports and no bigger than a pack of cigarettes. the cost was about $70. i`ll be watching this topic and will also be open to any better ideas.
you better be careful with that. you wouldn't be the first person to bust a bucket right off the pump.
 

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am sure glad you asked this question as i`m in the process of doing the same thing. i have all the parts and am planning to keep the cable and shifter. i`ll have a on/offswitch on the steering wheel and another switch on the carb to trigger the actuator at wot. when the person on the starting barge says "watch the clock" i`ll flip the switch on the steering wheel. the bimba valve will open the bucket at wot and also push the shifter handle forward into a notched and locked position. i can then turn off the steering wheel switch and have control of the bucket with the shifter handle. i ordered the actuator from Contender Performance Products Inc.. 740-927-0060. its a 12 volt 3 way air/co2 shut off valve with 1/8" npt ports and no bigger than a pack of cigarettes. the cost was about $70. i`ll be watching this topic and will also be open to any better ideas.
Kinda with BP on this one. sounds a little overly complicated. Most guys use a simple switch on the steering wheel. A wot switch could be troublesome. Some of the stuff done with a wot on an MSD Digi 7 for many racers was problematic.

I have a on off switch on my steering wheel and it works great. up is fwd and down is neutral or reverse depending upon how your bucket is configured. For most guys if they were to lose power the switch defaults to the last position it was powered.

Those valves are offered by clippard for a lot less than $70 too.
 

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bp, i had never given that much thought. sure don`t need any mishaps while in a texas tunnel. you know well how those kentucky racers are. if i can`t cut a .2 or better light every run i`ll continue to be a free pass to the next round for the guy in the other lane. i`ve got to be at least two lengths ahead of those outboard guys at half track or they`ll come around. i only gain 6-7 mph from half track and run 100-03 at the end. mike deaton tried to talk me into a foot operated peddle that resembles the operation of a clutch. maybe thats what i should have done. right now i use a place dirverter shifter to operate the bucket. got any better ideas? anybody? somebody? i`m all ears. Bodean, i`m sorry for hijacking your thread.
 

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bp, i had never given that much thought. sure don`t need any mishaps while in a texas tunnel. you know well how those kentucky racers are. if i can`t cut a .2 or better light every run i`ll continue to be a free pass to the next round for the guy in the other lane. i`ve got to be at least two lengths ahead of those outboard guys at half track or they`ll come around. i only gain 6-7 mph from half track and run 100-03 at the end. mike deaton tried to talk me into a foot operated peddle that resembles the operation of a clutch. maybe thats what i should have done. right now i use a place dirverter shifter to operate the bucket. got any better ideas? anybody? somebody? i`m all ears. Bodean, i`m sorry for hijacking your thread.
A suggestion, is what I do is when the rope is pulled up completely let go of it and both hands on the wheel, nail the throttle at the same time you flick the switch with your thumb. Lots of guys hold on to the rope even after they pull it up and it seems to be counterproductive. Some guys have problems with there boat trying to do a u turn while idling and hold on to the rope for those reasons but just a thought?
 

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thanks guys. i`m listening to the words of wisdom and do away with the thoughts of a wot switch. allready have to maintain one of em for the msd launch controler. heres my new thought; the place dirverter shifter is notched. i`ll fill in all the notches except the most forward one and the bucket will be locked open by the flip of a switch on the wheel. when the switch is off i can use the handle to make slow approaches to the rope or ramp. hows that sound?
 

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"BEER BUDGET RACING"
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Discussion Starter #10 (Edited)
The open/closed toggle switch is my plan. Me and BP talked about it a little before SITC and my launch sequence has a few holes in it. I would eventually like to get the diverter on some sort of timed deal too.

I've looked Piston in the wind and Info's set ups over and was just curious about what cylinders guys are using and maybe a few pics of diferent setups. I'm thinking of using the bimba dual action actuator, not sure of the diameter and stroke needed. The solenoid I have is rated to 150psi, that should be enough I think.
 

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The open/closed toggle switch is my plan. Me and BP talked about it a little before SITC and my launch sequence has a few holes in it. I would eventually like to get the diverter on some sort of timed deal too.

I've looked Piston in the wind and Info's set ups over and was just curious about what cylinders guys are using and maybe a few pics of diferent setups. I'm thinking of using the bimba dual action actuator, nor sure of the diameter and stroke needed. The solenoid I have is rated to 150psi, that sould be enough I think.
Same size that is used on a hydraulic place diverter
 

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Bodean, i measured the distance of travel with the bucket open vs. closed where the shifter cable is attached. was 2". ordered the actuators with that travel from mcmaster-carr. their web page has good selection and detail.
 

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bp, i had never given that much thought. sure don`t need any mishaps while in a texas tunnel. you know well how those kentucky racers are. if i can`t cut a .2 or better light every run i`ll continue to be a free pass to the next round for the guy in the other lane. i`ve got to be at least two lengths ahead of those outboard guys at half track or they`ll come around. i only gain 6-7 mph from half track and run 100-03 at the end. mike deaton tried to talk me into a foot operated peddle that resembles the operation of a clutch. maybe thats what i should have done. right now i use a place dirverter shifter to operate the bucket. got any better ideas? anybody? somebody? i`m all ears. Bodean, i`m sorry for hijacking your thread.


You better not worry about them wackers, I herd you had a Cheyenne comin that way and was gonna put you all on the trailer ;)

LOL !!!! J/K, cant wait to run with ya Richard :cool:
 

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thanks guys. i`m listening to the words of wisdom and do away with the thoughts of a wot switch. allready have to maintain one of em for the msd launch controler. heres my new thought; the place dirverter shifter is notched. i`ll fill in all the notches except the most forward one and the bucket will be locked open by the flip of a switch on the wheel. when the switch is off i can use the handle to make slow approaches to the rope or ramp. hows that sound?
There really is no "off" position. Only open or closed. Either way you will have pressure on one side or the other of the ram. I don't think It will be all the easy to override that with a cable. You would have to bleed off any pressure in the line to have manual control.
 

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overcomplicated

seems like its overcomplicated. I like the regular lever and cable. it works and its simple. there have been a few times I needed to move the lever slightly forward or back to adjust my boats position a little just before launch. I have cut some good lites with the lever and cable. just takes practice. less chance for something to malfunction. just my opinion here.
 

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For me it is kind of the other way around. The solenoid and air piston are so much simpleer than a cable. Yes, you need to have your gate set to a true neutral, but a simple flick of a switch opens the gate in a fraction of the time of cable actuation. And for me as a slightly older guy, the action and coordination of focusing on the tree, opening the gate, hitting the gas and cutting a light is much easier.

My routine is similiar to Widowmaker. I flip the switch about two or three numbers on the tree prior.to decking. This lets all my last.moment focus on timing the deck.
 

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"BEER BUDGET RACING"
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Discussion Starter #18 (Edited)
For me it is kind of the other way around. The solenoid and air piston are so much simpleer than a cable. Yes, you need to have your gate set to a true neutral, but a simple flick of a switch opens the gate in a fraction of the time of cable actuation. And for me as a slightly older guy, the action and coordination of focusing on the tree, opening the gate, hitting the gas and cutting a light is much easier.

My routine is similiar to Widowmaker. I flip the switch about two or three numbers on the tree prior.to decking. This lets all my last.moment focus on timing the deck.
Right, thats what I'm wanting to do. I just want repeatability. Flick the switch on 7 gas it on 6....or something like that. Plus it will allow me to have both hands on the wheel instead on one on the wheel and the other on the bucket lever.

Also my place diverter handle is in a bad spot (right between my legs), I would like to get it on a switch as well, dunno if air is the way to go on that though. The bucket is what I would like to get covered first.
 

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Right, thats what I'm wanting to do. I just want repeatability. Flick the switch on 7 gas it on 6....or something like that. Plus it will allow me to have both hands on the wheel instead on one on the wheel and the other on the bucket lever.
this is the way I like it, flip the switch, u KNOW THE BUCKET IS OPEN (boat will move) and then hit the gas, I dont want to blow a bucket off.
 
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