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I bought some brand new heads that where not hard anodised for marine use.The heads are fully assembled can i just take the valve out and have them hard anodized without effecting the guides and seats? or is there some kind of paint or coating can be poured just in the water jackets?This engine will never see salt water.I also drain all the water out of the engine after each weekend.
 

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I had the heads off one of my engines the other day and was surprised at the deterioration of my alum. heads as a result of the water here in Havasu. Made me want to put cast iron heads on it and not waste nice alum. heads. It would be nice to find some way to protect alum. heads from this type of damage.

I have often thought it would be beneficial to plumb fixed block drain lines to the outside of the transom with a open/closed valve to make draining the blocks easy every time I pull the boat out of the water but with the size of the block drain holes I assume they would plug up quickly defeating the purpose.
 

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I bought some brand new heads that where not hard anodised for marine use.The heads are fully assembled can i just take the valve out and have them hard anodized without effecting the guides and seats? or is there some kind of paint or coating can be poured just in the water jackets?This engine will never see salt water.I also drain all the water out of the engine after each weekend.
I do a lot of aerospace work that requires parts to be hard anodized and chem film, I know that they can mask stuff off if you don't want it to be anodized. I would think you would not want the chambers anodized.
 

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There is a block off that can be applied to keep the hard coat masked. ALOT of areas will need that. It is like a paste and takes a while to get back off/out. All tapped/reamed holes need to be blocked. The additional material that the coating applies will keep the bolts from fitting. It could be done, but I think it would take ALOT of effort to do this after wards. Guides, seats, etc...Maybe if the coater was experienced they might have a more sophisticated method than I have seen. I am basing what I am telling you on what I did when building gages and fixtures that needed the hard coat applied. Our local heat treat company did the anodizing for us too. GOOD LUCK if you do it. I will be interested to see if anyone does have a better way.
 

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Would it help to put an anode in the end of each head like the outbord engines use?
 

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I put one in a block drain hole. Hadn't thought of the head its self. I guess you need to drill and tap a hole in each head?

Tim
Just my thoughts were put one on the end of each head right above were the water usually eats at the head surface would be a prime spot
 

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In the jet boat section there is a guy that goes by Tiki talk to him about this he runs Embee coatings & I was talking to him about this at the finals.If I remember right he said they can coat the inside water jackets to protect against corrosion.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Thanks for all the ideas guys .I was wonder if i filled the all the water jacket holes up except for one and fill with glyptal paint(the paint they use in lifter valleys)and then drain the head .what do you guys think a recipe for disaster.I know the glyptal is water proof.
 

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If you put a coating in the waterjacket will that hinder the heat transfer ??
 

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Boat Nut
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It's not so much the insides that are the issue, but the mating surfaces that really suffer corrosion. This is unless you operate in brackish water...
 

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I bought some brand new heads that where not hard anodised for marine use.The heads are fully assembled can i just take the valve out and have them hard anodized without effecting the guides and seats? or is there some kind of paint or coating can be poured just in the water jackets?This engine will never see salt water.I also drain all the water out of the engine after each weekend.



I would try and fix a water system I could use that I could circulate liquid glass thru the engine as per the procedure and then drain and let dry, K&W makes some and there are a few other block sealers that use a liquid glass, K&W's has copper in it, wont hurt anything, and adding some zinc sacrificial anodes would help

prolly can set the deal up to treat the engine once a year, and that should be enough

if worse came to worse, put a closed system with a couple of small shell and tube heat exchangers on it and run antifreeze
 

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Strap on the JATO
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I was told by my engine guy to drain the water every time
I pull the boat out when the engines nice & warm. I did it
every time last season. I'm curious to see what it looks like when
I pull it apart??? With enough heat & evaporation, it should
dry out inside?
 

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Boat Nut
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Typicaly corrosion starts with the lesser potential metal, a Zinc bolt on would be a great start.
 
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