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I'm real close to getting the motor all back together. Once its done and back in the boat, What advise would give me. I plan on running under driven @ around 6 to 7%. For a few runs :D
Engine:Gen VI 515 BB Chevy. Rotating assembly has been spun & balanced & Line Honed. New SRP Flat top Pistons & rings. 119 cc Open port GM Performance aluminum heads. Had a valve job done too. Comp ultra gold Aluminum Roller Rockers, Hi tech push rods, Comp Cams XM298H w/ Chevy Hydraulic Roller Lifters. RPM Range 3200 - 6800
Intake 298 duration .575 valve lift.
Exhaust 316 Duration .578 valve lift. Dyers Roots type 6/71 blower. #33 and #36 Pulleys. MSD dizzy & 6al box

I got a heavy right foot and its right over the throttle pedal.
 

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My advice is don't smile too big, you'll get bugs in you teeth:D

Do not go out and over drive the boat until you get used to the new set up.
 

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Just got my camera working again. No more pictures in the dark without a flash:D here are a few from the camera phone







Thanks guys. I hope its as fun as you both say.
 

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Next to the oil pressure gauge, the most important thing you're going to want to watch religiously will be your fuel pressure, especially when you're heavy right foot is in action. Bad things happen fast if you go lean. ;)
 

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Next to the oil pressure gauge, the most important thing you're going to want to watch religiously will be your fuel pressure, especially when you're heavy right foot is in action. Bad things happen fast if you go lean. ;)
Yea I here you Jordy

This was ex psi canyon (Matt). I believe this was caused by a lean condition.
 

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How are the carb spacers working out? I haven't noticed the circle racers using those with blowers, but the guy at BDS said they have found HP improvements with 1" spacers.

Curious about your experiences with those.

Ps. I came across a fuel flow rate gauge recently. I'm thinking that might be a good companion to fuel pressure.
 

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"It's HONDO, honey"
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I could teach you a couple of things. I'm what you can a vetren Cave lololol :D. I do agree with jordy, if you what the fuel pressure gauge as it starts to lean out you'll start to here a poping, thats no bueno
 

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[ as it starts to lean out you'll start to here a poping, thats no bueno[/quote]

CAVE,you have to remember to not have any throttle input,when you are starting it. This will cause a lean condition,:)st
 

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[ as it starts to lean out you'll start to here a poping, thats no bueno
CAVE,you have to remember to not have any throttle input,when you are starting it. This will cause a lean condition,:)st[/QUOTE]

A lean condition when Pumping the throttle? Wouldn't that flood the carbs? Or did I miss some thing FARMER JOHN

I read in another thread that when you start a blower engine you pump the throttle a few times then wait a moment. Then start it up. Once it starts you need to keep the revs at about 1100 till the engine warms up. Please correct me if this is wrong...
 

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I read in another thread that when you start a blower engine you pump the throttle a few times then wait a moment. Then start it up.
Right, i usuly just let the motor go to idle after it starts
 

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CAVE,you have to remember to not have any throttle input,when you are starting it. This will cause a lean condition,:)st
A lean condition when Pumping the throttle? Wouldn't that flood the carbs? Or did I miss some thing FARMER JOHN

I read in another thread that when you start a blower engine you pump the throttle a few times then wait a moment. Then start it up. Once it starts you need to keep the revs at about 1100 till the engine warms up. Please correct me if this is wrong...[/quote]


On mine after it has sat for a week or so 2 pumps max turn key and let it idle. For me any more that that I end up pullin the back 4 plugs cause there soaked and other boaters dont seem to like my language.:D
 

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Think you got a handle on it! sorry for any confusion, just wanted to point out that you didnt want the throttle plates open when you where cranking it over! starting it:D
 

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I agree with 71Hallet, Couple of pumps on the carbs if it hasn't started for a few days, 1/2 a pump if I started it yesterday and it's cold today, otherwise just crank it. I have also found that mine will flood if I forget it's blown and pump it, even while cranking it. Seems un-natural in a way but it is real easy to get too much fuel in it.

Before you first try to start it, make sure the carbs are correctly adjusted. It will rev very fast without a load and will rev very high with just small changes of the throttle plates. Also make sure the carb bowls are full of fuel and the needle/seats work correctly. My new carbs had some junk in one needle/seat and it didn't take very long to pump a LOT of fuel into the manifold/cylinders. (Had to do an oil change before it even ran.)

I would like to see the initial firing if you're open to spectators. Could even lend a hand but it doesn't sound like you're short on helpers.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Cruzer hows the house coming along? Man I'm glad I'm asking this stuff now. I got no patients when on the boat ramps. I would be yelling at myself.

Here is the start up plan. Install the engine without the pump attached. Get it all dialed in on the trailer then reinstall the pump. Let the silicon dry this time for a couple of days then get it wet.

I'll post up on West Coast South in the official cave goes big thread when I'm going to start the engine. The engine & boat is in Phoenix. More room to work and the neighbors wont call the coppers on me when I start the motor with the short pipes I made for adjusting the valves.:)devil Should be a loud event. :D Loud Pipes Save Lives. Especially in Mesa AZ...
 

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Cave,

House is done. Waiting on the paper work from the appraiser to come in. The first appraisal didn't include the pool. We are probably going to sign by the end of the week.

Hopefully I won't be moving the day you are ready to fire it up.
 
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