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Discussion Starter #1
One of my winter projects is to try to level my motor out a little more. At a glance(to me), it looks like I'm about 5* nose up. I'd like to nose down 7 or 8*. Anyone have a educated guess of how much I should take off the front plate? I was thinking about 1/2"..:)Unsure:)Unsure
 

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Resident Ford Nut
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Nose down ??? :)bulb

Can't say I've ever seen that, why ?

S CP :D
 

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Living in a cage of fear
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I see You have a rail kit.

I flipped my front mounts over on my 4 point stringer mounts and leveled mine out. I think it is more than a half inch difference. If they are 1/2" or so offset, then it actually lowered it an inch.

What is the length between front and rear plates at the bottom? I can figure out how much equals a degree for You.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
I see You have a rail kit.

I flipped my front mounts over on my 4 point stringer mounts and leveled mine out. I think it is more than a half inch difference. If they are 1/2" or so offset, then it actually lowered it an inch.

What is the length between front and rear plates at the bottom? I can figure out how much equals a degree for You.
Thanks...it looks to be 24ish(plate to plate). I just want to tilt it down about as much as it's tilted up now.. fwiw.
 

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Just to make sure we're on the same page, you want to go from 5 up to 7 down for a change of 12 degrees? Need the distance from the rear mount where it will pivot to the front mount.
 

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One of my winter projects is to try to level my motor out a little more. At a glance(to me), it looks like I'm about 5* nose up. I'd like to nose down 7 or 8*. Anyone have a educated guess of how much I should take off the front plate? I was thinking about 1/2"..:)Unsure:)Unsure:D.
I can figure it for you if you can give me the length between the plates but remember that you will have to lower the back of the engine also since the pivot point becomes the rear motor plate and to lower the front of the engine will raise the driveline since it behind the pivot point. So you can figure it by making the u-joint the pivot point and measuring to the front plate. Once a figure is calculated on the front plate you can take the ratio of the rear plate position compared to the total length and take that percent of the the amount you cut off of the front plate and then take that off the rear. I know you probably know that but I AM A MATH GUY so lay some lenghts on me and I can do the trig:D.
 

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LIQUID QUARTER MILE
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start at 5/16 then go on little by lit
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Just to make sure we're on the same page, you want to go from 5 up to 7 down for a change of 12 degrees? Need the distance from the rear mount where it will pivot to the front mount.
I'm thinking 7* down from up 5*...
 

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Kreg if you drop the front it will "withdraw" even more D/L than you currently have which is very "marginal" Here again (below) is the original mock up for reference , suggest you Start fresh , loosen every thing and work off the "D/L alignment" as your starting point to garner what you want to end up with Always here to help if you need it Tom
 

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Discussion Starter #13
I'm thinking you should leave it alone. Your u-joints are not gonna be happy with that 12 degrees.
t
I realize 5+7 =12 but I only plan on moving chit 7*. I want to end up about 2* down(crank relative to pump shaft). Maybe I'm nutz..
 

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t
I realize 5+7 =12 but I only plan on moving chit 7*. I want to end up about 2* down(crank relative to pump shaft). Maybe I'm nutz..

So you aren't talking about going from 5* up to 7* down? Thats what it sounded like. Still think you are wasting time and energy. I won't say you are nutz....but...........:) Even at 7* (why not just make it parallel to stringers?) you will need to get the height just right to keep the u-joint angles even.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Kreg if you drop the front it will "withdraw" even more D/L than you currently have which is very "marginal" Here again (below) is the original mock up for reference , suggest you Start fresh , loosen every thing and work off the "D/L alignment" as your starting point to garner what you want to end up with Always here to help if you need it Tom
Thanks Tom...As it sits there in the pic(my pic), I have about a 1/2" until my dl bottoms out on the shaft. I know it(the motor) needs to come back some. I think a new set of rails are in my future.... Fwiw isn't that dl a little longer than mine??? I'm in no way pointing a finger at you, I've moved all my junk around. It works fine, I probably should leave it alone but I don't know how:)sphss
 

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Thanks Tom...As it sits there in the pic(my pic), I have about a 1/2" until my dl bottoms out on the shaft. I know it(the motor) needs to come back some. I think a new set of rails are in my future.... Fwiw isn't that dl a little longer than mine??? I'm in no way pointing a finger at you, I've moved all my junk around. It works fine, I probably should leave it alone but I don't know how:)sphss
All 1310's (spicer "come aparts" and H bars) are within a "C hair" of each other ,honestly I'd probably leave it alone (with the exception of the depth engagement) Tom
 

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Discussion Starter #17
So you aren't talking about going from 5* up to 7* down? Thats what it sounded like. Still think you are wasting time and energy. I won't say you are nutz....but...........:) Even at 7* (why not just make it parallel to stringers?) you will need to get the height just right to keep the u-joint angles even.
I would describe it as going from 5* up to 2* down....a total change of 7*'s. I don't know if we are on the same page or not??
 

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To really do it right you'd want to know the distance from the rear yolk along with the distances to each of the engine plates.
 

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Tom, H20MOFO,

Isn't there an min and max angle at witch the joint should operate? If I am correct the optimum angle is between 2* and 5*. After that you are putting strain on the joint especially when turning high rpm's- Don't want pieces of metal flying all over the place.:)st
 
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