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Discussion Starter #1
Im looking to find a basic 12VDC 3 port - 2 way valve that has 1/2" ports and can handle gasoline.... for switching between tanks. Can hydraulic or "light oil" valves handle fuel?

Im having a hard time finding anything like that - tried Grainger, McMaster Carr,

CP, Eddie, Imco.... have 'designed' systems for way too much money

thanks
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Thanks for that but I was looking for something a bit more modular. I want to be able to run my AN fittings, hoses, etc to it. its going to be exposed also, so would like it to 'look' as good as function as part of the fuel system too.
 

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83 Crusader - 468 BBC
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FWIW, I removed my tank select valve and replaced with a "T", pulls simultaneous from both "side" tanks. Running a Mallory Pro Comp 140 electric fuel pump. Works well for me...
 

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AKA OhOneWS6
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FWIW, I removed my tank select valve and replaced with a "T", pulls simultaneous from both "side" tanks. Running a Mallory Pro Comp 140 electric fuel pump. Works well for me...
The problem here occurs if one tank pulls a little easier. It will empty that tank first and then you a stuck. If one side is sucking air it will never pull from the other tank
 

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Check out kieth ekhart (spelling?) performance. They got exactly what you want. I was gonna go this route, exept I am running a return circuit. They have one that will do that, but it's $500. I'm gonna run two three way barrel valves instead. Much cheaper.
 

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83 Crusader - 468 BBC
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The problem here occurs if one tank pulls a little easier. It will empty that tank first and then you a stuck. If one side is sucking air it will never pull from the other tank
Works well for me. I have never experienced any of these issues....mine pulls equally from both tanks, and I have run them to less than 1/2 gal per...
 

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Discussion Starter #8
FWIW, I removed my tank select valve and replaced with a "T", pulls simultaneous from both "side" tanks. Running a Mallory Pro Comp 140 electric fuel pump. Works well for me...
I had almost that exact setup in my vdrive (yours looks like a jet, and i dont know if that makes any difference?) and when running mostly straight runs when WOT it drained evenly no problems.

I changed to a mechanical pump now (the CP 140 elect was getting air and losing prime too often) I was playing around running circle track the last time out and found that my inside tank drained about 1.5 times more than the outside while doing that. so it ran out first and I sucked air and ran out of gas. no valve at all in line so i was a floater. so i figured I have the wiring already there (elect pump switch) and if I put in a solenoid operated valve, i can switch it from the dash. I dont want to run fuel lines all the way to the front.

I know there are valves out there that are capable of this, I am just not finding them.... :bangmyhead:
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Check out kieth ekhart (spelling?) performance. They got exactly what you want. I was gonna go this route, exept I am running a return circuit. They have one that will do that, but it's $500. I'm gonna run two three way barrel valves instead. Much cheaper.
Thats the one by Imco, same stuff that CP, Hardin, Eddie sells and thats just way too much money for a "designed system".... i just need the solenoid valve inside there. its likes $30-$50!!!!
 

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Solenoid valves

I took two normally open solenoid valves and installed them after each tank, I run both open until I need to even up the fuel levels, then I close the one getting low. The valves I bought are stainless and look OK. You would need 2 switches or a three position switch either way you would have to run another wire leg. You definitely want "normally open" valves so any failure in the system still lets fuel flow. I don't recall the exact cost, but nowhere near $500 bucks. I can take a pic if you are really interested.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
I found an elect solenoid valve and installed it. It has been working just perfectly to electronically switch between the tanks. The connections are intrinsically safe for fuel. Havent had any problems with constriction or anything to do with the port size which is 3/8".

Works Great with the flip of a switch!....


x 016.jpg x 017.jpg
 

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Discussion Starter #13

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If you "Tee" it between tanks down in the middle of the boat below the bottom of the tank it will siphon equally and main tain constant level between both tanks
 

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Found a "Green Guy"... on eBay selling them!!!! lol seems they mostly use them for Bio-Diesel now. But look for any 3-way 12V valve that has Viton seals and it should work just fine. They have to be rated for fuel or oil....

I used this one:

3 Way Solenoid Valve WVO SVO 12 Volt 1 2" NPT | eBay
Green's Good!..thats a nice piece..does it registor a fuel-gauge when switching tanks?
 

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Green's Good!..thats a nice piece..does it registor a fuel-gauge when switching tanks?
I dont have a fuel level gauge (other than my dipstick)... But I have the driver side tank connected to the Normally-Open side, so it sucks from there first (counter-acts the driver weight). I have a mechanical fuel psi gauge in the dash and when that starts to flutter, then I know to switch it over to the other side and Im good to go .... to the gas station! :happy:
 

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Discussion Starter #18
If you "Tee" it between tanks down in the middle of the boat below the bottom of the tank it will siphon equally and main tain constant level between both tanks
When I re-ran all my new fuel lines I cleaned it all up with less fittings and to be hidden behind and under the transom deck, I didnt want all the lines, cables, wires all laying all over the bottom of the boat and stuff so that probably messed up the flow. The elec valve works very well and I know where my fuel is or isnt left.
 

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Works well for me. I have never experienced any of these issues....mine pulls equally from both tanks, and I have run them to less than 1/2 gal per...

You're another lucky one. I had an open T-valve on my 19 and it pulled equally. Then I switched fuel pumps, tanks, lines and well lets just say I had to install a manual ball valve.


Im looking to find a basic 12VDC 3 port - 2 way valve that has 1/2" ports and can handle gasoline.... for switching between tanks. Can hydraulic or "light oil" valves handle fuel?


Im having a hard time finding anything like that - tried Grainger, McMaster Carr,


CP, Eddie, Imco.... have 'designed' systems for way too much money


thanks

How can you say that they're too much money? I've owned 3 IMCO valves in 3 different boats and they all worked great. One went out, but no big deal as you can still turn the valve manually and IMCO stood behind their product and handed me a new one.


I agree that they're far from cheap, but you get what you pay for. There's a reason IMCO has sold thousands of valves.


The video on that ebay link you posted shows it being tested on a Yugo. LOL:rolleyes:...So how long have you been using it?
 
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