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Discussion Starter #1
Anyone ever burn a base ball size hole in them? I burnt 2 of them up. Both on the same side while testing the boat out this weekend.

I think its a flow of least resistance deal.
Notice how the lines are run from the thermo housing. In this pic, the lines are run incorrectly and have been corrected. But the lines that go vertical are to the right side. I think the water is flowing to the line that is mounted to the side. That would be the least restricted way to flow. Now I know that this was a problem before I bought the boat because the same exhaust hose was burnt in the same spot when I picked up the boat. This hose aint cheap. Anyone ever have a problem like this? What fixed it . Other than going OT:)sphss
 

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Stainless like a flexible braided type or solid, I didn't thing solid was an option? We are talking the hose that hooks the collector to the tips right? I did that once but it was because I went from ot's to tt's and didn't realize I needed to re-route my dump line into the collectors.
 

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Stainless like a flexible braided type or solid, I didn't think solid was an option? We are talking the hose that hooks the collector to the tips right? I did that once but it was because I went from ot's to tt's and didn't realize I needed to re-route my dump line into the collectors
 

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Discussion Starter #5
That would be stellar to go Stainless. But not an option at this point. Someday I will upgrade to Lightnings or Danas's Torqers. I like the look of the Dana's but there again, Not at this point.
That is an option HH. Just not at this point.

Thats the ones MOFO... The Soft wall Rubber hose. Stainless Solids are High dollar but freaking nice.
 

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I'm still a little fuzzy on the stainless deal(seriously) are we talking just stainless pipe/tube, if so I need a better imagination, or a lot of help.lol I'll try to put up a pic of why I'm all ears here.
 

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.Cave if your burning the hose you have a bigger problem than the hose, those exhaust need water flow
all the time. if your running somkind of thermostat
it must bypass the engine and feed the exhaust.

I couldn't figure out you water flow from the pic.
could you post the cooling system diagram.

looking at the pic again, I'm not sure you have your thermostat housing plumbed correctly. let me find my instructions for it.

Kreg give me a call or email me and I'll help you fix your alignment problem
 

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Cave if your burning the hose you have a bigger problem than the hose, those exhaust need water flow
all the time. if your running somkind of thermostat
it must bypass the engine and feed the exhaust.

I couldn't figure out you water flow from the pic.
could you post the cooling system diagram
I have to agree and I think we need to know what size hose and fittings are for the cooling system. All the hoses I have seen burnt are from not enough water. Usually from a bad water pump but I do not think that is your problem.
 

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Yep that's no a good feeling when your in the middle of a lake and your exaust goes bye,bye,lol. :)sphss Fwiw my exaust lined up fairly well until I went tall block, now I'm high and wide. Sorry I'll shut up now.
 

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I have stainless out the back. Rubber needs alot of water to keep it cool, but stainless can get by with very little. In fact, I restrict water to mine (to help build some pressure in the block and prevent reversion)- most of my water goes out the dumps.

Any rubber hose near the water line on the transom is not good- boats can sink that way. Another alternative is aluminum elbows connected with very short rubber hose runs. The bends in the elbow will take most of the heat.

Not expensive at all.
 

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I ran the 4" hose with water injection headers, and about 2" of the hose was exposed to the exhaust heat. At slow speeds it was OK, but if I ran hard that blower puts out a lot of heat and cooked that hose.

You should have solid metal pipe of some kind for the exhaust. The rubber hose--even the stuff that's made for exhaust--should only connect the metal parts with just a tiny bit of exposure to the exhaust gases, along with a continuous flow of water.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Bingo swap your lines on the thermostat housing... your only getting a very small amout of water to the exhaust until the thermostat opens

I fixed that the second day out. I looked at the before pics and saw that I had plumbed the lines backwards

Line size:
The ss braided into the boat is a -10 to the heat exchanger than from the heat exchanger to the engine its -8 ss braided.
Water enters via the Jet Pump. Pressure pushes the water into the engine through the water pump holes. Heated water also goes to the front side of the thermostat housing to heat the back side of the thermostat. a 160° thermostat. Just as the diagram instructs. Then the water dump goes through the engine and dumps front the back of the thermostat housing directly to my Gil marine headers continuously as the engine runs.

I think you all answered my question... Thanks again everyone. No easy (cheap) way out of this one.

HH where can i pick up elbows? I have a slight transition.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Not that easy Havasu Hangin'.
But I've found the 4' Stainless and Aluminum. So I can go either way. Just need to See if Junkyard can weld Stainless. IMy transition is more like 22.5 ° or less of a bend to the straight part of the 4" pipe. I can get aluminum in .067 or .25- & cut and weld to the correct angle. I was hoping to avoid this but your all correct. I don't want to loose this one.
 

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Cave,

Plumbing routing:

From Jet to Oil Cooler (If you have a cooler)
Oil cooler to a Tee (If you do not have a oil cooler, go Jet to Tee directly)
Tee to 2 tees at water inlets on front of engine (One Tee to plate on each inlet)
Tees at Engine inlets to holes in Thermostat housing farthest from thermostat
From holes in thermostat housing closest to Thermostat to exhaust (header) dumps.

Be sure to put the Thermostat in the right direction. It should be marked on the Thermostat.

There should be no reason for one side to be a lot hotter than the other. Line lengths relatively the same length (to the nearset inch or two) will work fine. Ran my first jet like this for >20 years without issues and the shortest exhaust hose on it was 10" long. No issues with the current blown 540 either (I check).
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Thanks Cruzer. I have 3' of exhaust hose here at the homestead in Mesa. As for the over heating of that one side, My plumber friends say that water will flow to the hose with the least resistance. This being the port side. Worst case, The header on the right side may have issues. Maybe a critter crawled inside whilst it was awaiting reattachment.:D I kinda like the ideas that were tossed up here. I wanted to go solid on the hose just for the what if factor.
 

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Thanks Cruzer. I have 3' of exhaust hose here at the homestead in Mesa. As for the over heating of that one side, My plumber friends say that water will flow to the hose with the least resistance. This being the port side. Worst case, The header on the right side may have issues. Maybe a critter crawled inside whilst it was awaiting reattachment.:D I kinda like the ideas that were tossed up here. I wanted to go solid on the hose just for the what if factor.
Ok .......so I went over to my buddy,s last night, he has the 4" stainless we were talking about.
 
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