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Off Road Badass
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Discussion Starter #1
On either side of the bowl, the 2 allen set screws...what goes in the holes? Gear oil? ATF?
 

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tintingsandiego
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If you cant seem to top it off, you probably have a blown seal. Take them both off and fill one side till it runs out the other, then re-install the plugs.
 

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Off Road Badass
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Discussion Starter #6 (Edited)
Ok will do... 90wt gear oil, so Redline brand with MTL is ok?

It's a Berk, says it on the pump right after the engine bellhousing.
 

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Ok will do... 90wt gear oil, so Redline brand with MTL is ok?

It's a Berk, says it on the pump right after the engine bellhousing.

If its not leaking at the shaft seal , suggest you always consider keeping "oil bath" as Berk was designed designed, if it will hold it ,dont waste money on Redline or =, 80/90 or 90 wt auto parts store gear oil is fine , as said pull both plugs and fill till the fluid runs out the other if it chronically loses fluid (evidenced by loss/add or oily residue in the exit side of the bowl) it could be due to a multitude of isues ranging from a fouled or displaced shaft seal to a worn or scored shaft etc call if you need help Tom
 

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Off Road Badass
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Discussion Starter #8
I'm not aware of any leaks, The only maintenance ive given this thing is greasing the zerk fitting at the driveshaft coupling/seal after the engine bellhousing. Is this where the shaft seal is? Other then that, I don't know when this thing was topped off with oil last...guess i better get on it.
 

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I'm not aware of any leaks, The only maintenance ive given this thing is greasing the zerk fitting at the driveshaft coupling/seal after the engine bellhousing. Is this where the shaft seal is? Other then that, I don't know when this thing was topped off with oil last...guess i better get on it.
The shaft seal is almost directly below those plugs , inside the bowl and circling the tailshaft only aceesable with bowl removal , if it works(doesnt leak) dont fix it !
 

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Off Road Badass
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Discussion Starter #10
The shaft seal is almost directly below those plugs , inside the bowl and circling the tailshaft only aceesable with bowl removal , if it works(doesnt leak) dont fix it !
For sure, thats my motto haha. But I'm goin to top off the fluid for sure. Thanks for the info!
 

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Living in a cage of fear
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For sure, thats my motto haha. But I'm goin to top off the fluid for sure. Thanks for the info!
Don't squeeze the oil bottle too hard, you can push the seal out inside the bowl.

Just go slow and easy with it until it comes out the other hole and gets clean looking.
 

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Off Road Badass
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Discussion Starter #12
Don't squeeze the oil bottle too hard, you can push the seal out inside the bowl.

Just go slow and easy with it until it comes out the other hole and gets clean looking.
Right on. How many quarts does the bowl hold?
 

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Right on. How many quarts does the bowl hold?
Do your'e self a favor and pull both plugs then blow into one and see what comes out of the other. I don't mean shop air at 120psi but light pressure. I have seen many bowls blow out water with this simple test and the result is always the same--- blown seal at the shaft. If you are lucky you will get oil and it's a simple add more and go! Mark
 

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Off Road Badass
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Discussion Starter #15
Well I blew it out with a can of compressed air, nothing but air came out the opposite hole. So I dumped about a half quart of Lucas oil 80w/90 gear oil in it and it still didn't puke out the opposite hole. The weird thing is that pretty much right off the bat it almost did, and I thought I was topped off (checked it with a q-tip) but then I added more and it never topped off and the level actually went down on the q-tip dipstick. Doesn't make sence. So idk, maybe the seal is leaking. Where does it leak to? I cant see any visible oil leaks anywhere on the entire pump drive system, or any residue even. And Ive been running this thing for almost 2 seasons before I even knew I was supposed to check the oil level and it runs great.
 

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Well I blew it out with a can of compressed air, nothing but air came out the opposite hole. So I dumped about a half quart of Lucas oil 80w/90 gear oil in it and it still didn't puke out the opposite hole. The weird thing is that pretty much right off the bat it almost did, and I thought I was topped off (checked it with a q-tip) but then I added more and it never topped off and the level actually went down on the q-tip dipstick. Doesn't make sence. So idk, maybe the seal is leaking. Where does it leak to? I cant see any visible oil leaks anywhere on the entire pump drive system, or any residue even. And Ive been running this thing for almost 2 seasons before I even knew I was supposed to check the oil level and it runs great.
Sounds like its leaking into the bowl internally (takes alot of oil to manifest as an external leak) likely via a bad. fouled or displaced seal, or scored shaft etc , not a big stretch to simply pull the bowl , inspect and fix it correctly Tom
 

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Off Road Badass
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Discussion Starter #17
Sounds like its leaking into the bowl internally (takes alot of oil to manifest as an external leak) likely via a bad. fouled or displaced seal, or scored shaft etc , not a big stretch to simply pull the bowl , inspect and fix it correctly Tom
What kind of damage are we talking about here if the bowl seal is bad? I have to assume it's been bad/dry of oil for many river trips now. The previous owner who sold it to me had the whole pump system gone through and blueprinted by R&D Marine in Anaheim right before he sold me the boat, (about 2 years ago) so I have to assume the seal was replaced then.
 

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What kind of damage are we talking about here if the bowl seal is bad? I have to assume it's been bad/dry of oil for many river trips now. The previous owner who sold it to me had the whole pump system gone through and blueprinted by R&D Marine in Anaheim right before he sold me the boat, (about 2 years ago) so I have to assume the seal was replaced then.
Most likely something simple like monofiliment line or similar , seals are inexpensive , you'll need a bowl gasket , bowl seal and some silicone calking
 

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Living in a cage of fear
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What kind of damage are we talking about here if the bowl seal is bad? I have to assume it's been bad/dry of oil for many river trips now. The previous owner who sold it to me had the whole pump system gone through and blueprinted by R&D Marine in Anaheim right before he sold me the boat, (about 2 years ago) so I have to assume the seal was replaced then.
It's not a huge deal, but can lead to other things.

See the end of the shaft in this pic, where it looks sort of rusted? That's where it rides in the bushing that is pressed into the bowl, with a seal isolating the bushing from the water, ideally. (I don't have a pic of the bowl with the bushing and seal in it. Please ignore the destroyed impeller in this pic!)

All the oil does is lube the end of the shaft at the bushing, the bushing is a tail support for the rotating shaft.
If it held oil when you squirted it in, you COULD run it for a day, then try again. If you find that no oil at all is left, the seal is probably shot.
If it is milky, but still has some oil there, the seal is going away.
I check mine before every trip, and it usually has a little bit of "milk" in it, but cleans up very fast, like a single quart of lube lasts me all summer.
Bear in mind that although it is designed to hold oil, some people do use grease, and some do not run the seal, and just let the water do the job of lubricating. I ran my first jet years ago for 3 years without ever knowing about those oil plugs, and in fact used shop air to blow the water out for winterization. I did not know any thing about it, it never actually broke anything.
What will happen is possibly the end of the shaft may get worn and cause the shaft to need repaired or replaced at the next re-build.
You could also junk the bowl out if it wears through the bushing, and at that point the impeller could get into the wear ring.

Anyway, it isn't that big a deal to pull the bowl and put a bushing and seal in, the hardest part is actually the transom cover sealing.

 
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