Performance Boats Forum banner

1 - 14 of 14 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
22 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Hi I'm new to the forum... can anyone tell me about what psi the Basset t is supposed to open at I know with a can with a lot of over lap the water should be off completely to the headers at 1500 rpm. The problem I'm having is even at an idle Which is about 900 rpm I'm getting water to the headers so I put a valve in line so I can manually open it and that works its just a pain can anyone tell me why that's happening I've also got two transom dump outs because I was peaking way past 30 psi WOT now I'm down to 15 WOT...
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
44 Posts
I asked this same question some time ago and never did get an exact answer but i think you need a new spring in your valve. I put a new one in my valve and it opens at about 1700 rpm strait from the pump, no reducing valves just a pressure regulator/bypass.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
22 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
Is your pressure relief right off your pump what kind of pump do you have? Thanks for that info ill take the Basset t apart and see what I can do
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
44 Posts
My bypass is set to 15/16 lb WOT , my t valve opens before i get a reading on the gage but my gage markings are pretty course i think it starts at 5lb
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
22 Posts
Discussion Starter #6
D you know any place that I could get the pressure relief I live in prescott valley Arizona. And the only place that I know know of in Arizona is dry dock marine in Phoenix and they are pretty high in prices they want 175 bucks for the thing. I don't see why I couldn't just make a relief kit can that be done:confused:
 

·
Banned
Joined
·
5,950 Posts
D you know any place that I could get the pressure relief I live in prescott valley Arizona. And the only place that I know know of in Arizona is dry dock marine in Phoenix and they are pretty high in prices they want 175 bucks for the thing. I don't see why I couldn't just make a relief kit can that be done:confused:

Contact GS Marine,I believe in Corona.He is a great guy and super honest. Sorry don't have his # but just Google it. Good Luck
 

·
Steve
Joined
·
402 Posts
While it might not be a bad idea, a bypass relief valve is not going to do anything for adjustment of header water. Don't let the water at idle go unattended for very long. Put a Gate Valve on the line that feeds the water to the Bassett T, that way you can really dial the water in. A ball valve is much harder to make fine adjustments with, compared to a gate valve. Should only be a fine mist when cruising, no water drops coming out the headers. I had a heck of a time getting mine to idle with no water to headers. Barely crack the gate valve open, mine is opened just off the "seated" position. Maybe a 1/8 to 1/4 turn, only. Take it out cruise it. If no water out the pipes, stop, crack it open 1/8 turn more. Cruise it for a few. Keep doing this until you get to the point where there is any sign of water/light mist coming out the headers when cruising. At that point the water out the pipes will probably dry out after a few seconds of idle time. There was a very fine line on my setup of when the pipes where always dry (even at speed) and when there was water going through pipes at idle.

Good Luck, Hope this helps.
Steve
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
354 Posts
Hi I'm new to the forum... can anyone tell me about what psi the Basset t is supposed to open at I know with a can with a lot of over lap the water should be off completely to the headers at 1500 rpm. The problem I'm having is even at an idle Which is about 900 rpm I'm getting water to the headers so I put a valve in line so I can manually open it and that works its just a pain can anyone tell me why that's happening I've also got two transom dump outs because I was peaking way past 30 psi WOT now I'm down to 15 WOT...
you may have some FOD in the valve, most speed & marine shops sell a rebuild kit for that bassett tee. I think I paid 25.00 for mine.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
22 Posts
Discussion Starter #14
Thank you everyone for the info I ended up taking the t apart thes saw that the spring was completely collapsed I put I new spring in and took it to the lake and it ran perfect thanks Steve I took your idea with the gate cable that really helped with the adjusting its a valve eaiser then the ball valve I don't have any water to the headers at idle at all but at 1700 I got I real light mist and at wot a nice spray thanks for all the info :thumb:
Do yourself a solid > put a filter before the T > this way the check-ball won't stick open from small debris and the spider lines won't get clogged too.
 
1 - 14 of 14 Posts
Top