Performance Boats Forum banner

1 - 12 of 12 Posts

·
Amatuer
Joined
·
241 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Maybe this is the wrong section, but I took the family out on the lake today and we towed the kids around, then dropped anchor and swam, and then after a while I go to start the boat and it just won't.

Well, I was not surprised at this as I usually can't start it on just one battery after running, then stopping and sitting for a while. So I switch it to use both batterys. I have always been able to start it this way, BUT this time I try and try and it just won't start. I tried for about 15 seconds then stopped, then waited a little, tried for 30 seconds, then stopped, then I tried and tried until it obvious the batteries were draining.

So then I notice this:


Looks like solder below the battery switch. I then remove the switch turn it over and see this:


I then bypass the switch and go to start the boat and INSTANT start.

The switch looks like it was in good condition, but my understanding of electronics says that the "bad" spot in the circuit is where the heat would be created. So do I just replace the switch, or is this just a symptom of a bad starter, bad connections, etc?
 

Attachments

·
Registered
Joined
·
4,288 Posts
Depending on how old your starter and cables are, I'd throw 1 of everything at it. Boats are hard on starters.
 

·
Some guy
Joined
·
3,622 Posts
Maybe this is the wrong section, but I took the family out on the lake today and we towed the kids around, then dropped anchor and swam, and then after a while I go to start the boat and it just won't.

Well, I was not surprised at this as I usually can't start it on just one battery after running, then stopping and sitting for a while. So I switch it to use both batterys. I have always been able to start it this way, BUT this time I try and try and it just won't start. I tried for about 15 seconds then stopped, then waited a little, tried for 30 seconds, then stopped, then I tried and tried until it obvious the batteries were draining.

So then I notice this:


Looks like solder below the battery switch. I then remove the switch turn it over and see this:


I then bypass the switch and go to start the boat and INSTANT start.

The switch looks like it was in good condition, but my understanding of electronics says that the "bad" spot in the circuit is where the heat would be created. So do I just replace the switch, or is this just a symptom of a bad starter, bad connections, etc?
I think you hit it on the nose and didn't know it. If the connection was loose and arcing, it may have melted the lead terminal, so there is a chance the switch itself is not bad. You could use an ohm meter to check the switch, but it looks like maybe the side mount battery ends on the cables were not making a good connection, perhaps either putting copper lugs on the end instead, or if you have no way to crimp them on, replace the cables. Personally I would use the heaviest cable I could find, can't see how large yours are since they are out of the photo.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
986 Posts
First, have your batteries tested.

Second, you melted the lead of the cable end. Replace the cables with ones that use proper sized eyelets at each end. The one you show is a GM side-terminal end(they suck. Period). Cable ends that clamp to the cable are poor second choice to a factory crimped end. You also have the clamp bracket upside down, unless you are running very large cable. The two raised portions between bolt holes should face the conductor, in most cases, for better clamping.

More importantly, do not ever crank for 30 seconds. All you are doing is creating heat and further damage to components. Ten to fifteen seconds with a break in between is about the max.

You should probably also go over all connections on the boat to make sure they are tight and clean.
 

·
Amatuer
Joined
·
241 Posts
Discussion Starter #5
I think you hit it on the nose and didn't know it. If the connection was loose and arcing, it may have melted the lead terminal, so there is a chance the switch itself is not bad. You could use an ohm meter to check the switch, but it looks like maybe the side mount battery ends on the cables were not making a good connection, perhaps either putting copper lugs on the end instead, or if you have no way to crimp them on, replace the cables. Personally I would use the heaviest cable I could find, can't see how large yours are since they are out of the photo.
It does not seem loose on this side, maybe I should take the switch apart. But certainly is where all the heat built up.

The outside diameter of the wire is almost 11/16''. It seems very thick.
 

·
Amatuer
Joined
·
241 Posts
Discussion Starter #6
First, have your batteries tested.

Second, you melted the lead of the cable end. Replace the cables with ones that use proper sized eyelets at each end. The one you show is a GM side-terminal end(they suck. Period). Cable ends that clamp to the cable are poor second choice to a factory crimped end. You also have the clamp bracket upside down, unless you are running very large cable. The two raised portions between bolt holes should face the conductor, in most cases, for better clamping.

More importantly, do not ever crank for 30 seconds. All you are doing is creating heat and further damage to components. Ten to fifteen seconds with a break in between is about the max.

You should probably also go over all connections on the boat to make sure they are tight and clean.
What is very large cable to you?

I wondered about the cranking for more then a few seconds and I cringed while I did it. Thanks.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
986 Posts
What is very large cable to you?

I wondered about the cranking for more then a few seconds and I cringed while I did it. Thanks.
It's more a question of "large relative to the recess in the clamp". Not all clamps are the same. I would hope your battery cables are no smaller than 2awg. That would be borderline on flipping the clamp plate. Your best bet is to either buy/make new cables or find a shop that will crimp eyelet ends on yours for you. Both bulk cable and the eyelet ends are available from West Marine. They may even sell the crimping tool. If you go this route, shrink wrap the cable to eyelet, preferably with adhesive lined shink tube. This helps to reduce corrosion damage migrating up the cable.
 

·
Amatuer
Joined
·
241 Posts
Discussion Starter #8
It's more a question of "large relative to the recess in the clamp". Not all clamps are the same. I would hope your battery cables are no smaller than 2awg. That would be borderline on flipping the clamp plate. Your best bet is to either buy/make new cables or find a shop that will crimp eyelet ends on yours for you. Both bulk cable and the eyelet ends are available from West Marine. They may even sell the crimping tool. If you go this route, shrink wrap the cable to eyelet, preferably with adhesive lined shink tube. This helps to reduce corrosion damage migrating up the cable.
Using this as a guide http://lib.store.yahoo.net/lib/wind-sun/TryStarWeldingCable.pdf, I am pretty sure it is 2/0 awg. So it should be plenty big.

Sounds like I should redo all the terminals, clean all the connections, and install a new switch.
 

·
custom boat lover
Joined
·
498 Posts
Using this as a guide http://lib.store.yahoo.net/lib/wind-sun/TryStarWeldingCable.pdf, I am pretty sure it is 2/0 awg. So it should be plenty big.

Sounds like I should redo all the terminals, clean all the connections, and install a new switch.
To be safe go all new And you should be able to get every thing from napa auto to do this job. By the way the batterie cable 2awg, Should be just under $4.00 a foot, I believe I have seen the switch there also If not they should be able to get it for you. And if you ask them some napas might be able to install the ends for you if you know the sizes you need.:)hand
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4,288 Posts
I struggled to find decent gauge marine cables, the 2 napa's I hit up were a no go. Amm if you have the same problem I did there is a place here in salt lake called S&H terminal they have every gauge and custom cut the length.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,234 Posts
FWIW Napa carries Belden products and they can order it in but you have to order a whole box (I think it is a 100' box), I have used welding cable in the past, you will need to keep it free of any oil though, the insulation is not oil rated.

Can be remedied by using some heat shrink tubing, the cool thing is that you can make the wires any color you want.
Most welding cable (if not all), is fine strand very high quality tinned wire, you can then go purchase some 100% copper (as opposed to copper clad) welding cable ends, they come in many sizes.

Been doing that for 15 years.......

You had a horrible connection at that terminal, those lead clamp on deals are horrible for multiple termination, the more connections you have the higher the resistance and more amperage required to run a high load...

GT :)hand
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
60 Posts
you had a problem for long time "quote would not start on one batt had to switch to both". If good batts it should start on one
 
1 - 12 of 12 Posts
Top