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Discussion Starter #1
I'm going to end up using intake spacers to use a standard deck intake on a tall deck. Does anybody make a similar spacer for the ends? If push comes to shove, I can make them, but what a PITA!! Sure rather buy them then make them. I can't stand the 1/2" bead of silicon so want to do something better!!!
Thanks
 

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B1 Racing
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David, assuming you are going to attach the end spacers with some 1/4-20 socket head cap screws...I would just make them out of .375 6061. By the time you drill the holes and counter bore the cast end spacers they are so freaking weak they are not worth a damn, not to mention they dont match up to a Dart block contours for chit. We were as careful as we could be when we went through this on RCB's 540 and we still broke both end spacers when we were mocking it up. Even if you reduced the fastener size to 10-32 or 24 I still would not trust them. We just made new ones and forgot about it. It will take a few hours but its better than having one let go Saturday afternoon or something.

If you were just planning on just siliconing it all togethor I guess they will work ok the way they are?

PM RCB19, he knows where to get the cast ones if you go that route.
 

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B1 Racing
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the weiand kit comes with end pieces. did you make your spacers or didn't yours come with ends? Maybe they will sell you just the ends. I have made ends from 3/8 plywood that I coated with epoxy. Easier than alumn and they work. http://store.summitracing.com/largeimage.asp?part=WND-8204&Prod=Weiand+Intake+Manifold+Spacer+Plates&img=wnd-8204_w.jpg
I see that summit kit comes with the end spacers with pre drilled holes. I like the idea of laying out your own holes in the block so they are in the middle of that area your working with which is sort of thin. When we tried to use the pre-drilled holes it put the holes in weird places, didnt like that. Another reason to make your own.

We drilled/tapped the block then used threaded transfer points to pick up the holes we put in onto our new spacer then traced the contours of the block onto the piece and it was a nice fitting part that wont break.
 

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steelcomp was here
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If you have the means, I agree, make your own. I still have the patterns I used at Dart...did this many times...just make a paper pattern from a file folder, then transfer to the alum. 10-32's are plenty to hold it in place.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Damn... was hoping to hear "Gee David, I needed a set a while back so I fired up the Fadal and made 20 sets out of billet unobtainum... I'll send you a couple for a six pack!!!" Instead, it sounds like I'll be whittleing them out on the my funky old manual mill.
The spacers I have came with a manifold I bought a while back... Never got the end pieces.
Chris, I agree 1/4-20 socket head cap screws are way to big. I'll likely go a couple 10/32 flat heads. We attach the spacers to the heads that way as well.
Thanks all...
 

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steelcomp was here
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Damn... was hoping to hear "Gee David, I needed a set a while back so I fired up the Fadal and made 20 sets out of billet unobtainum... I'll send you a couple for a six pack!!!" Instead, it sounds like I'll be whittleing them out on the my funky old manual mill.
The spacers I have came with a manifold I bought a while back... Never got the end pieces.
Chris, I agree 1/4-20 socket head cap screws are way to big. I'll likely go a couple 10/32 flat heads. We attach the spacers to the heads that way as well.
Thanks all...
A band saw and a drum sander (or die grinder with a round sanding arbor) would make quick work out of this project.
 

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spacers?

Why noit use the proper intake. I have a standard 4150 and a dominator 4500 intake for tall deck blocks. Could be pursueded(sp) to part with one.

Jerry
 

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Got a perfect conditiion set of spacers and end plates, all aluminum I think from dart. I just peaked in a box to make sure I still had them. PM me if interested. :)hand
They were made for a Dart Big M head.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
A band saw and a drum sander (or die grinder with a round sanding arbor) would make quick work out of this project.
My current shop is so small, I don't have room for a band saw and man is it a PITA. I have to use my race trailer as additional storeage just to make everything fit. Will be moving into a larger shop around the first of the year and then I can add some better machine tools and a band saw is top of the list!!

Why noit use the proper intake. I have a standard 4150 and a dominator 4500 intake for tall deck blocks. Could be pursueded(sp) to part with one.

Jerry
I've got a bitchen polished tunnel ram for a tall deck block. Unfortunately, you can't bolt a blower to it :D My blower manifold is for a standard deck block.
 

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B1 Racing
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Now Dave ... that would make just too much sense, stop it :)sphss
Yes and no. Roll pin is okay if the manifold comes down and compresses on the end spacers, in some cases they never touch eachother when fully assembled and you need RTV to fill the small gap, with an engine running vacuum this is super important that its sealed up, not a good idea to use a roll pin in that case, IMO. Ive used plenty of roll pins and they work great but better in some places than others.

Even with 1/4-20's everything works out just fine, plenty of meat in the block for the threads.

you pretty much need a mill to make them cause you have to cut the 45 into the ends, you could grind it I guess but thats super hillbilly.
 

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steelcomp was here
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Yes and no. Roll pin is okay if the manifold comes down and compresses on the end spacers, in some cases they never touch eachother when fully assembled and you need RTV to fill the small gap, with an engine running vacuum this is super important that its sealed up, not a good idea to use a roll pin in that case, IMO. Ive used plenty of roll pins and they work great but better in some places than others.

Even with 1/4-20's everything works out just fine, plenty of meat in the block for the threads.

you pretty much need a mill to make them cause you have to cut the 45 into the ends, you could grind it I guess but thats super hillbilly.
Super hilbilly? LOL...
Just bustin ya a little...experience will teach that in the time it takes you to set up for that little 45* end cut, I can do 20 on the disc sander and you'd never know the difference.
Sometimes it's better to use an end mill, sometimes it's not. If you're setting up a CNC to run a bunch of these, and you've got the cost of the fixturing all figured into your profit, then you can make it a part of the operation, but for a one or two deal, I wouldn't get near a mill for this project. No band saw? Use a jig saw with a metal blade. Just (near) as fast. The whole job sholdn't take more than an hour or so.

Roll pins would require the holes to be almost perfectly in line...within a few thou, anyway. Countersunk screws would be more forgiving for a slight misalignment, and also hold the part tight to the block. IMO, that's important. I use three 10-32/s , one on each end, and one in the center, a little Ultra RTV under the spacer and some red Loctite on the screws.
 

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well they worked for me. but then again the holes lined up (with out a cnc machine gasp!). I gasket cinched a cork gasket to the top of it and the intake fit just right. You can get gasket material in a bunch of different thickeness.

You wanna talk super hillbilly. Those big beads of SILLYcone to make up for poor engineering looks hillbilly to me.

It sure was nice the day I shit canned that intake and got one that fit (was engineered) correct.
 

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steelcomp was here
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You wanna talk super hillbilly. Those big beads of SILLYcone to make up for poor engineering looks hillbilly to me.
:)devil

With a regular deal I don't use end gaksets. Ultra seal works better than sillycone.
 

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I dont know, I think a cork gasket looks ultra hillbilly. Id rather see a nice bead of grey or black rtv. Everyone does it different and I would never doubt SD's work, his stuff is always bad ass. Curious, are cork gaskets ok with vacuum?

Steel I run a bridgeport minimum 15 hours a week, its no big deal really to set that up and knock em out. disc sander is fine, I dont care as long as it fits right.:)bulb
 

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Chris, I just used the thinest ones I could on both sides of the spacer. Not the ones that come with gasket kits.
I'm sure they it would have been ok because that gasket cinch stuff works so good.
I started using that gasket cinch stuff because my blown deal was spitting out intake gaskets @ 30 pounds of boost.

Like I said, life got better for me when I got an intake that fit right. lol

btw, I'm not knocking anything you're doing. You have one of the most bad ass jets out there for sure.
 
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