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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
509" blown injected engine for 1/4 mile lake racer. What are you guys using for a pump, anyone tried a Titan?

Thanks in advance - CM


Wags.... It has aluminum rods.
 

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Oh, boy... here we go. It is going to get good... I'll start.
Melling M77HV
Wags

Oh, you would be better off spending your time and thoughts making sure you have the right bearings, and bearing clearances.
Oh, steel rods I assume?
 

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Clay Smith "blue printed" melling...... or CP performance "blue printed" melling they simply kick ass.:)devil
 

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Titans are great! Have 2 for sale cheap, 400 shipped.
 

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Tell me PS&B, does the Clay Smith maonage to somehow over come the fact that the NEW Mellings is a diiferent casting that before 1995 GEN motors, and that the iron SEEMS to be lacking for the OLD days. Does he have a special casting all his own, or is he blueprinting the same casting I can buy? Just curious!
Same one you can buy Bob, The blue printing is on the INSIDE of the pump! LOL.... I have not used the ''NEW"" ones as of yet. But Lots of us on here Do, I have not heard of any problems. for 150.00 they are worth it.JMO
 

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New select series Melling is a nice pump for an iron OEM style pump. Comparing that with a billet pump is appls 'n ar'nges.
 

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107 series Melling....

New select series Melling is a nice pump for an iron OEM style pump. Comparing that with a billet pump is appls 'n ar'nges.
The proof is in the inspections..... I have inspected about a dozen 10777, (discontinued screw in pick up type), and the 10778, 10778C pumps... They have ALL been right on the numbers. You'd think ANY quality pump would check out well, but most do not..... The "C"s are a little loose for a pleasure boat due to lower idle pressure, but they sure work well in high RPM applications... Having axle support in the covers adds a great deal to their ability to remain straight under heavy loads. You'd be amazed at how far those shafts flex with no lower support.... I also like the idea of a pipe plug in the end of the bypass chamber. No more little roll pins to mess with. Both of those pumps come with two bypass springs to choose from.. Oh, and the covers are precision located with hollow dowel pins in two cover bolt stations....
I highly recommend the 10778, and the proper pick up for your pan.....
Ray
 

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Yes. I have been using them since that was all that was available. I always yank the cover off, check them, etc. But I have great looking bearings.
Wags

With that being said, most of these guys have way more experience and build way more engines thn I do, so take my info with a grain of salt.
 

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Am I a retard? What do the 10778 and 10778C do that a 77HV won't ?
Wags
They all pump oil Wags.
The 10778 and C have extended shafts the are support by the cap, and they have a cap screw that holds in the relief spring instead if a pressed in cup. The "C" has anti-cavitation slots and uses a hex drive shaft. And they both appear to be assembled with a little more care. I have yet to see a 10778 that required any work other than taking it apart and cleaning.




The problem I have with any of the pumps now is they are all built to be used on a GEN 5-6. GM made the rear cap tall at the inner bolts of the cap, and the old pump would clear the bolt head under the pump. With the "old" pumps, if you ran studs, you had to trim the stud flush with the nut, AND still grind the nut on angle to clear the pump. With the new pumps you don't even need to cut the excess stud length off. The metal they removed to clear the cap screw on the Gen 5-6 weakened the pump.
Add this to the fact that I seriously believe the material itself is weaker, and you start see broken pumps in boats.

OLD PUMP Notice the area around the shaft, and across to the mounting pad.



Compare that to the "NEW" pump. If you weight the too pumps you'll find they removed more material than just that.



May not seem like much of a change, but to me, its HUGE. The difference can result in this:
oil pump 1.jpg
oil pump 3.jpg

Regardless what some fool might tell you. No self proclaimed lengendary cam duplicator/fuel pump reproducer can make this pump stronger.



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I have 2 Titan pumps sitting on the shelf and they work great! I have switched to a dry sump system but if I was building a wet sump I would be using the Titan. You have to have a pan modified to fit them or have one built by Billet Fabrications or Stef's or any custom builder which gives you the best wet sump oiling system out there! The remote pickup system has several variations available with AN plumbing in different sizes.
 

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Oh, boy... here we go. It is going to get good... I'll start.
Melling M77HV
Wags

Oh, you would be better off spending your time and thoughts making sure you have the right bearings, and bearing clearances.
Oh, steel rods I assume?
I agree with Wags 110%! Why change what works. I have never used anything other and never had a problem. By the way Wags he has an aluminum rod build. Mark
 

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Any opinions on the TITAN pumps? They are offering a "sportsman" series since I used one last...
Never used the sportsman pumps but have run the pro pump. They are not a "bolt on" deal. They tend to want a BIG pan (mine was 16 qts) and a LOT of attention to oil drain back (no screens in the valley, additional drains on the back of the motor, etc). Also, if your boat is flywheel forward, the pickups are a bit of a bitch since there's 2 suction inlets into the pump. Nice pumps but you need to pay attention to the details.
Depends on the build but these day's I'm pretty keen on the 10778/10778C pumps but also had good luck with the standard M77HVs for mild performance deals.
 

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Been wondering if one of these might be cheap insurance?
With the old style pump I would say it wasn't necessary. Today if I was running an iron pump, that brace would be on it. Also, if you look at the mill cut for the hold down bolt. It wouldn't be a bad idea to put a radius in the bottom of the cut up against the pump body. It would be nice if they used a cutter with some radius on it. Its just begging to break right in the ditch. Notice the flat milled bolt pad. This is a Milodon pump that broke in the first race after we installed it.
oil pump 2.jpg



Interesting that brace is a Milodon piece. MMMM:hmmm: I will hand it to Milodon in they seem to be aware that their is a problem. They cast their SBC pumps out of 40,000PSI G10 iron, and the cast is stout.


But the BBC pump is cast of the same old iron they always have, BUT they have modified the bolt pad so that it has reinforceing gussets tied into the pump body. This is a huge improvement they have made JUST recently. I would bet this thing is considerably stronger than a Mellings.
When they removed the iron on the bottom side of the pump, they have to do something like this to get the strength back. If I was to run an iron pump, this would be the one. JMHO. Its just a stronger casting by design.




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Never used the sportsman pumps but have run the pro pump. They are not a "bolt on" deal. They tend to want a BIG pan (mine was 16 qts) and a LOT of attention to oil drain back (no screens in the valley, additional drains on the back of the motor, etc). Also, if your boat is flywheel forward, the pickups are a bit of a bitch since there's 2 suction inlets into the pump. Nice pumps but you need to pay attention to the details.
Depends on the build but these day's I'm pretty keen on the 10778/10778C pumps but also had good luck with the standard M77HVs for mild performance deals.

:))THumbsUp
 
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