Performance Boats Forum banner

1 - 20 of 25 Posts

·
Boat Nut
Joined
·
5,131 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Going thru my mill this winter, whats the preferred bearing these days for my 540 std deck motor. Thinking Clevite H series for both, pro's, con's, any suggestions welcomed.

Thanks
 

·
Just another Wannabe
Joined
·
1,196 Posts
That is the standard. Unless you are crazy cruel on your bearings. Then you go V-bearings but they are tough to read and pretty much only good when your tune up is pretty much perfect. But if you are not top alcohol or fuel, just stick with the H series stuff.
 

·
steelcomp was here
Joined
·
26,512 Posts
Going thru my mill this winter, whats the preferred bearing these days for my 540 std deck motor. Thinking Clevite H series for both, pro's, con's, any suggestions welcomed.

Thanks
They should work fine. Just mkae sure your tolerances are right, and the finish on the crank is good. If you're worried, I think they have a coated version.
 

·
E-7 Sheepdog (ret)
Joined
·
6,834 Posts
perfect
 

·
Lurker
Joined
·
1,417 Posts
I would use .0025 as my low limit for the mains and .0025 for my high limit on the rods. Like to see the mains closer to .0028-.0030 and the rods at .0020-.0022 but that's just me! :)sphss
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
1,681 Posts
In case something happens the coated stuff is ALOT less likely to weld itself to the crank. On a build I look at coated bearings as a $175 insurance policy.
 

·
mo balls than $cents$
Joined
·
11,734 Posts
i run coated main clevites and they're worked great so far


anybody ever use the king acueler(sp?) stuff? i hear good things on other boards bout em, never used a set personally.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4,677 Posts
we have 3 sets of kings in 3 mills around here tom they seem to be holding up just fine:Dall of the high performance kings not the stock replacement p series.;)
 

·
mo balls than $cents$
Joined
·
11,734 Posts
we have 3 sets of kings in 3 mills around here tom they seem to be holding up just fine:Dall of the high performance kings not the stock replacement p series.;)
we put them in gopher's 557bbf sanger sj and they've held up well, but its just a 11 to 1 na deal, no nitrous. they looked just like clevites, but a bit darker colored. just keep see'n alot of guys running them, most be pretty decent bearings.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4,677 Posts
well tom i have had a set in my mill for 2 years,run nos on my mill.you and me both now its not a big hp mill but it does take alot of abuse,lol!!!before that i had the same bearings king i ran for 3 years prior,they still looked good when i tore it apart would have re-used them but had a new set on the shelf.;)

dads 505 has them also
we have a 406 that has them.:)handi think they are and i have always been able to get them cheaper.;)
 

·
Boat Nut
Joined
·
5,131 Posts
Discussion Starter #13
I would use .0025 as my low limit for the mains and .0025 for my high limit on the rods. Like to see the mains closer to .0028-.0030 and the rods at .0020-.0022 but that's just me! :)sphss
Why the split, on the rods and mains, what does the looser mains accomplish, vs tighter on the rods. Thanks for the input
 

·
steelcomp was here
Joined
·
26,512 Posts
Sleek...take a second and picture what a crank is going through under power at the mains, and at the rods. Ideally, the smaller the clearances, the better.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
25,975 Posts
Sleek...take a second and picture what a crank is going through under power at the mains, and at the rods. Ideally, the smaller the clearances, the better.
AND THE BLOCK I have a couple of stock blocks that given their all, but enuff is enuff, that stuff can give, flex and move only so much and then.........well let's just say that when they let you know they're finished, toss 'em or $$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$



100% free webcam site! | Awesome chicks and it is absolutely free! | Watch free live sex cam - easy as 1-2-3
 

·
Boat Nut
Joined
·
5,131 Posts
Discussion Starter #17
Was going thru the paper work from the last build, seems C&A M-4542, C&A R-4542 bearings were used, pretty lofty price too. Are C&A bearings the shiznits or were they just a 90's fad?

Motor had 8 seasons on it before tear down, and everything still looks nice.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4,188 Posts
I would use .0025 as my low limit for the mains and .0025 for my high limit on the rods. Like to see the mains closer to .0028-.0030 and the rods at .0020-.0022 but that's just me! :)sphss
Sleek...take a second and picture what a crank is going through under power at the mains, and at the rods. Ideally, the smaller the clearances, the better.


I find this kind of interesting. I use the same clearance for the most part but I found a post by Darin Morgan saying that these clearances are to tight and was wondering what your guy's thoughts are with what he said. He even mentioned .00225" for pin bores. I found it very interesting. Pretty good read. The topic was help switching to 0-30w oil.

quote-
If your having bearing problems with 05-30W synthetic oils your problems are not with the oil as much as they are the clearances and the machine work. Bearing misalignment or worse yet, to tight a clearance will hurt you every time. A good line honed main and properly trued and honed rod housing bores seem like a given but they seldom are. They need to be addressed, checked out and honed by a professional that knows what he is doing. You need to have .003 on the rods and .0035 on the mains or your playing with fire. We run .003+ on the rods at all times never less than that, ever. We run .0035 to .00375 on the mains and never less than that, ever. On engines with higher loads the clearances go up never down. Pin bores can have up to .00225 for clearance on some engines with high vacuum in the crank case and good oil control in the pan. The better the oil control and vacuum in the pan, the less oil the wrist pins get! We run 0055 (not a misprint) weight and it about the thickness of water. we run .0035 on the rods and upwards to.004 on the mains in the PS engines and the mains last all year long. Our 1300 horsepower Super Series engines have .003 rods and .0035 mains and run for 600 runs down the track! The record so far is 675 runs by Scotty Richardson.

(1) Get a good, professional machinist to line hone the mains and hone the rods properly.
(2) Make sure you have proper oiling. If your pressure fluctuates during the run,, you have problems.
(3) .003 rods and .0035 mains for clearance
(4) Use a good synthetic 05-30w oil like Mobil-1 or Castrol syntec
(5) In my personal opinion you need to stop using any oil from Amsoil. That is not a racing oil even if they say it is.
 

·
Lurker
Joined
·
1,417 Posts
I have read some of that post. I believe it is a couple of years old and is based on a Pro-Stock type engine spinning close to 10K rpm's. I think that now teams are looking at ways to tighten things up, as allot are going to steel rods (something that was unheard of a couple of years ago) as one example. I thin there is more to the steel rod thing but that could be a whole nother thread.
The more stuff moves, the looser it needs to be to compensate. Just like he mentioned honing rods ovate. That has been a trick in aluminum rods for decades due to the imense housing bore distortion. That is the only way they could get the parting lines from colapsing is to give it more room than the natural consentricity of the bearing has. The problem with loose clearances is trying to keep the oil wedge in place just in front of the load and not being pushed out the side of the surafces (bearing, and groove design and even tang placement can effect this also). That is why as you do this you generaly have to use a thicker oil. As things progress and we learn how to keep the shape in housing bores under extreme loads through materials, fastener and part design, we can get away with more which allows us to take advantage of thinner oils, but still retain the needed wedge.
With that being said, you really want to be as tight as possible without touching under load. With middle of the road parts, the old standard of .001 per inch of shaft diameter is more than fine, and if you are scared use it as your low limit and add 3 tenths to acheive high limit. If you have state of the art parts (or close to it) you can safely use it as your high limit, and go 3 tenths smaller as your low.
As to my original post on this, and not knowing his rod and bolt quality, I suggested the typical "good" part clearances.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4,188 Posts
I was just curious what you guys would think.. I should have started another thread and not hijack this one. My bad!!
 
1 - 20 of 25 Posts
Top