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One part at a time...
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Discussion Starter #1
I have a berk 12-jg-a pump with an intake. The bowl is shot, impeller shot, and the driveshaft is worn out at the end. I would like to fix the drive shaft. I've heard you can put a sleeve on the end to fix it. Can i make my own sleeve? What is it made out of on a stock berk? I want to fix the intake as well, but the fins on the bottom are corroded a bit. Can I cut them down a bit? I would also like to machine for a shoe and rideplate. Anyone with instructions on how to do this? Thanks in advance.
 

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E-7 Sheepdog (ret)
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You can grind the fins entirely off if you wish.

Hi-Tech Performance makes a shaft repair. HTP

Just what is "shot" about the bowl?

Mine is 30 years old and is not "shot", by a long shot.
 

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One part at a time...
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Discussion Starter #3
Well the fins in the bowl may be repairable. Is it possible to have them built up with weld and re-sharpened? I would love to be able to fix it. I'll post a pic when I can and maybe you can tell me if it can be fixed. Couldn't I just make a new sleeve? I know I'm cheap, but I also like to make things myself if I can.
 

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I used a piece of 17-4 S.S. Machined it out of a solid piece. Turned the end of the shaft down, made the repair sleeve but left the O.D. a little big, pressed it on to the shaft, machine end of the shaft to the correct O.D. to fit the bushings and your done. Oh by the way a lathe is a must with this project. If you have acsess to a lathe I believe I have a piece of 17-4 left over from when I did mine.If you need it just pay shipping and its yours

Ironman
 

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One part at a time...
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Discussion Starter #6
Ya that would be great! I am taking a millwright course so I have access to a full machine shop. I'll PM shipping info. Thanks.
 

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B1 Racing
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The end of the shaft that your talking about is coated with hard chrome from the factory, running raw stainless on the bushings will not last in the long run, this is why the manufacturers put hard chrome on the tips. Either get a new shaft or have it redone with hard chrome if you want to do it right.
 

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CS19 is correct we do (and have done) this repair too, however the stainless won't last as well even with the newer "permalube" rear glacier bearings Tom
 

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jetboataholic
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I have an extra shaft laying around that is only slightly worn, still has lots of life left in it. 50 bucks plus shipping and its yours, if your interested just send me a PM and I'll send you some pics of the shaft. I wouldn't try welding up the fins in the bowl, too much risk of melting them down even more because it is a casting, that has sucked up lots of water, dirt, oil, and other junk over the years. Depending on their condition I would just sand them down until they look like they did when they were new and so that they are all the same height. But if their too far gone you might have to find another bowl.
 

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No problem Tommy, as you know I have my bowl off of my pump right know and the repair I did on mine 1-1/2 years ago looks and mics out just fine..

Johnny nitrious when I get back to the shop on Tues I will look for that piece of 17-4 and will let you know if I still have it.

Ironman
 

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One part at a time...
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Discussion Starter #14
Well I went and hauled my pump parts out of the bush where I left them and it looks like I can salvage the bowl after all. It turns out my pump is actually a 12 JC but it has a split bowl with it. I plan on installing new bearings and seals and maybe sending to get prepped. Is this one worth the trouble??? Thanks in advance. John.
 

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The fins in the outlet of that bowl don't come all the way up to the flange, so my guess is that it would be a "B" bowl, right? Anyway I know it is not the more deisreable "G" bowl. From what I have heard, it would only make a difference in a real high performance application.

Doug
 

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One part at a time...
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Discussion Starter #18
Pulled the rest of the pump apart today. Had to press the shaft through the impeller it was so stuck from the saltwater. Anyone need an impeller???
 

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