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"BOUGHT NOT BUILT"
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Discussion Starter #1
Can I just remove the ten transom bolts, cut the silicone , slide the transom box back,
un bolt the bowl bolts, put a new gasket and slide the transom box back on with out
taking the rest apart

 

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Basically , just like you say, disconnect your cables , reliveve the silicone around the bowl and the hull , pry of the transom adaptor off, clean up and reverse process , call if we can help Tom
 

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"BOUGHT NOT BUILT"
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Discussion Starter #4
Basically , just like you say, disconnect your cables , reliveve the silicone around the bowl and the hull , pry of the transom adaptor off, clean up and reverse process , call if we can help Tom
why do I have to un hook the cables? can't I side it back enough to put the gasket in
 

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You can do it like that, but it would be easier if you take the cables off.
 

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If the gasket hasn't pushed out you can try tightening the bolts. I'm not sure what the torque spec is on those bolts, but they require some leverage to prevent leaks. I weigh 200 lbs and I put every bit of my weight into the wrench when tightening.
 

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Can I just remove the ten transom bolts, cut the silicone , slide the transom box back,
un bolt the bowl bolts, put a new gasket and slide the transom box back on with out
taking the rest apart

i wish my transom looked that pritty lol i got over spray when i was painting the pump lol
 

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"BOUGHT NOT BUILT"
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8,077 Posts
Discussion Starter #10
If the gasket hasn't pushed out you can try tightening the bolts. I'm not sure what the torque spec is on those bolts, but they require some leverage to prevent leaks. I weigh 200 lbs and I put every bit of my weight into the wrench when tightening.
I try'd to tighten the bolts... no workie
 

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Despite what you're being told, never reassemble (or assemble for that matter) the TA using silicone. If you use the rubber gasket, bowl ring and some white grease, it'll never leak and taking it apart the next time will be cake. The only time you need to use silicone, unless you're lazy, is if you have a set back.

Nice looking boat. :)
 

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"BOUGHT NOT BUILT"
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8,077 Posts
Discussion Starter #12
Despite what you're being told, never reassemble (or assemble for that matter) the TA using silicone. If you use the rubber gasket, bowl ring and some white grease, it'll never leak and taking it apart the next time will be cake. The only time you need to use silicone, unless you're lazy, is if you have a set back.

Nice looking boat. :)
whats the ta?
 

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Despite what you're being told, never reassemble (or assemble for that matter) the TA using silicone. If you use the rubber gasket, bowl ring and some white grease, it'll never leak and taking it apart the next time will be cake. The only time you need to use silicone, unless you're lazy, is if you have a set back.

Nice looking boat. :)

WHat kinda grease are we talkin??? Im about to throw the adapter on tomorrow and was gonna silicone.. But i do remember how much of a pain in the ass is was to get off because of the silicone. Id like to try this grease method lol.
 

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Just regular white Lithium grease.

You can use a little silicone to glue the rubber gasket to the TA, or any thing like gasket cinch. Make sure when this is done the gasket is in place evenly and flat. Do this, let it set up. After it's ready, install the rubber O ring on the pump and give this a coat of grease. Grease the inside of the lip on the TA where the O ring seals and apply some grease to the rubber gasket you siliconed earlier. Slide the TA over the pump and place your feet on each lower corner of it, grabbing onto the nozel for some leverage. Have your buddy take a 2X4 with one end wrapped with an old rag or some carpet, and place it right in the center of the TA where it says Berkeley. While your buddy smacks that 2X4 with a nice heavy hammer, you apply force with your feet and the TA will pop on evenly. Once the lip is on the o ring, you can push it into place with just your hands, no more hammer and feet, and install bolts, washers, nuts. After you install the 2 big wood type screws on the lower edge of the TA, these should be done last, you can take a little silicone and dab over the heads of the screws to help keep the h2o from seeping in. The other bolts don't need this.

Use the same grease on the ends of the rubber tube that seals the steering tube, or you can apply a little of it to the groves in the big nuts. This will help keep the tube from binding and the nuts will compress it into a nice tight seal. :)
 

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Angry American
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3,103 Posts
All that is great info unless you have a deep TA like mine. The standard gaskets are too large and the o-ring groove isn't any where near where the TA meets the bowl. I really don't have much choice but to use a sealant at the TA to hull location. At the bowl to TA, I made up my own o-ring of sorts using surgical tubing first and then some sealant to hold and seal it.
 

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We're not talking about a TA like yours, just stock set ups. ;) Is your pump set back, or did Rodney just get talked into buying one of Harry's glass TA's? There's no reason to run one unless the intake's set back.

I guess in my first post I should have said "unless you have a set back, or a set up like Cas". :)
 

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Angry American
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We're not talking about a TA like yours, just stock set ups. ;) Is your pump set back, or did Rodney just get talked into buying one of Harry's glass TA's? There's no reason to run one unless the intake's set back.

I guess in my first post I should have said "unless you have a set back, or a set up like Cas". :)
it had one of Harry's glass TA's when I got it and it was a real lovely installation. The previous owner must have thought the silicone gave it some buoyancy-


 
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