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Antique Member
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Discussion Starter #1
I need information,especially from the roundy round and GN racers on better and heavier cav plate components. When I bought the Hondo in 79', I was told that I had better have a handfull of turnbuckles and turnbuckle arms when I started making horsepower. I probably would not have a problem if I just ran this at the drags, but I really enjoy rough water racing at the lake, and that takes a toll. Currently I run a 7/8" upper bar, with 3/8" studded arms. Breaking the arms and twisting the bar is where most of the improvement is needed, as well as snapping off a few turnbuckles. I spent Sunday reworking all of this and would like to make improving it a winter project. There is no use in re-inventing the wheel, so I would like to know what is being run and is holding up to the severe pounding that your guys give it. Any insight would be appreciated.
Denis:)bulb
 

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WHERE I AM IDAHO
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i have the 3/8 stainless on my raysoncraft lp from rex marine and the 7/16 aluminum on my kurtis from bergeron in pheonix ,never had a problem yet but i drive like a sissy i guess
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Driving

i have the 3/8 stainless on my raysoncraft lp from rex marine and the 7/16 aluminum on my kurtis from bergeron in pheonix ,never had a problem yet but i drive like a sissy i guess
I have over twice the HP on the Cole and have only broken one turnbuckle, but again, that is on then off. The Hondo gets the stuffings kicked out of it hour after hour. About 15 years ago with my blown roller motor in it, the 7/8 rod broke just to the right of the pull arm. Results when I stomped it was almost a barrel roll. That one made me blink twice. Walk through the pits and the variety of set ups is from A to Z to make that particular boat work well. I think the circle racers have the best experience on this and internal hardware that stays together lap after lap. I've seen an aluminum arm break (or pull the threads ?) at one of the CVDCOA meets on a rather hot Cole. It happens.
Denis
 

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Hey Denis

As far as twist on the cross shaft goes, Kevin @ Canyon Boats told me that on their TAF 535 he used an old prop shaft for their cross shaft. I believe it was a 1'' deal.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Bar

They use a 1 1/8 prop shaft for the transome bar and 9/16 alum turn buckles.
I think that the 1 1/8" bar makes more sense. With a 1", you are only gaining 1/16" per side on the arm and nut counterbores. I can make the new pillow blocks myself. Could you hit me back with who has the 9/16" aluminum turnbuckles?? I would really appreciate it.
LSR, It gave me a nose bleed counting all of those turnbuckles!!! Beautiful to say the least, but it still leaves the rod pull arm on the left which is good for the circle guys as they rotate the prop opposite of us. This puts the most strain on the bar/arm on the correct side for them (I would assume?). My stress is created by the long arms on the right side, a long way from the pull arm, creating the bar twist at the first two arm counterbores to the right of the pull arm. (Does this make any sense-it's been a long day guys)
Option #1: The 1 1/8" bar, less depth on the counterbores, 7/16" studed arms if available, and the larger turnbuckles.
Option #2: Slow down in the rought stuff.
No brainer, we better start making parts.
Thanks guys for the input.:)devil
Denis
 

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I think that the 1 1/8" bar makes more sense. With a 1", you are only gaining 1/16" per side on the arm and nut counterbores. I can make the new pillow blocks myself. Could you hit me back with who has the 9/16" aluminum turnbuckles?? I would really appreciate it.
LSR, It gave me a nose bleed counting all of those turnbuckles!!! Beautiful to say the least, but it still leaves the rod pull arm on the left which is good for the circle guys as they rotate the prop opposite of us. This puts the most strain on the bar/arm on the correct side for them (I would assume?). My stress is created by the long arms on the right side, a long way from the pull arm, creating the bar twist at the first two arm counterbores to the right of the pull arm. (Does this make any sense-it's been a long day guys)
Option #1: The 1 1/8" bar, less depth on the counterbores, 7/16" studed arms if available, and the larger turnbuckles.
Option #2: Slow down in the rought stuff.
No brainer, we better start making parts.
Thanks guys for the input.:)devil
Denis
Denis,

On the new boat the cross shaft is 1-1/8" with 9/16" turnbuckles.

My Revenge & the new k all have the same lever lengths.
 

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LSR, It gave me a nose bleed counting all of those turnbuckles!!! Beautiful to say the least, but it still leaves the rod pull arm on the left which is good for the circle guys as they rotate the prop opposite of us. This puts the most strain on the bar/arm on the correct side for them (I would assume?). My stress is created by the long arms on the right side, a long way from the pull arm, creating the bar twist at the first two arm counterbores to the right of the pull arm.
why use that pull arm at all? I'm working on a hydroboost plate system for my cruiser and plan to use a rotary actuator on the outside of the boat. The plan is for it to look like an over sized transom bearing right in the center. No pull arms, no stuffing box seals. Just a few bulkheads that you can't even see.

Wanna get together and come up with a slick actuator?
 

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I run an 1 1/4 transom bar with the eyelever pockets bored a 1/4" deep so they are recessed & the load is on the eyelever & not on the bolts holding them in place. Then I built my own turn buckles out of aluminum tubing & 7075 ends bushed with drill bushings using 5/8 chromoly all thread & captive nuts. I don't have any pics currently... That is on an active GN boat & I have not broke any parts in 4 yrs. :|err
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Too cool

why use that pull arm at all? I'm working on a hydroboost plate system for my cruiser and plan to use a rotary actuator on the outside of the boat. The plan is for it to look like an over sized transom bearing right in the center. No pull arms, no stuffing box seals. Just a few bulkheads that you can't even see.

Wanna get together and come up with a slick actuator?
Absolutely!! I am always looking for a better mouse trap. Sometimes I think that we are stuck in a time warp here. I have a 5,000 sq ft machine shop here with guest facilities built in. Room to back the boat up to the machine shop inside and build parts. I looked at a rotary hydraulic motor for the plate system, but they were rather bulky. PM me if you need help in finishing this. I am always interested. One idea always leads to another, and another........
71 Halllet is on top of this stuff too with his CNC machinery. Both of us are for progressing the sport.
Denis
 

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I run an 1 1/4 transom bar with the eyelever pockets bored a 1/4" deep so they are recessed & the load is on the eyelever & not on the bolts holding them in place. Then I built my own turn buckles out of aluminum tubing & 7075 ends bushed with drill bushings using 5/8 chromoly all thread & captive nuts. I don't have any pics currently... That is on an active GN boat & I have not broke any parts in 4 yrs. :|err

Like this?
 

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Antique Member
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Discussion Starter #16 (Edited)
1 1/4"

I run an 1 1/4 transom bar with the eyelever pockets bored a 1/4" deep so they are recessed & the load is on the eyelever & not on the bolts holding them in place. Then I built my own turn buckles out of aluminum tubing & 7075 ends bushed with drill bushings using 5/8 chromoly all thread & captive nuts. I don't have any pics currently... That is on an active GN boat & I have not broke any parts in 4 yrs. :|err
Leaving 3/4" between the nut and arm would be a killer!! I think that on this 7/8" rig we only have 1/4-5/16" left in the center. I would really like to see some photos if you could take the time to shoot and post some. Sharp Shooter just posted the photos-very, very nice. Nice to see some zerks installed on the pillow blocks!
Thanks,
Denis
 

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I run an 1 1/4 transom bar with the eyelever pockets bored a 1/4" deep so they are recessed & the load is on the eyelever & not on the bolts holding them in place. Then I built my own turn buckles out of aluminum tubing & 7075 ends bushed with drill bushings using 5/8 chromoly all thread & captive nuts. I don't have any pics currently... That is on an active GN boat & I have not broke any parts in 4 yrs. :|err
GP is gonna have your ass for letting stuff like this out!!!:|err:|err
 

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1 inch bar and lot's of turn buckles. :D

Damn, that's a lot of turnbuckles!!! Setting those plates must take some time! Looks really good. You gonna bring it up to CFW for FD??
 

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Cantard
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why use that pull arm at all? I'm working on a hydroboost plate system for my cruiser and plan to use a rotary actuator on the outside of the boat. The plan is for it to look like an over sized transom bearing right in the center. No pull arms, no stuffing box seals. Just a few bulkheads that you can't even see.

Wanna get together and come up with a slick actuator?
Any spy shots?
 
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