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Discussion Starter #1
Im about to order a automatic float bilge pump for my boat to replace the old one. After looking theres so many choice i got lost. Any suggestions on brand and GPH? I had my eye on RULE 500GPH automatic switch.
 

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It's not an automatic set up, but I just picked a 500gph bilge pump for $17.00 from Walmart. Couldn't beat the price. It's a 'Tsunami' by Atwood, and you can replace the motor with drop in cartridges for even less money if you ever need to. Just a thought for you....
 

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That switch is a poor design. Mine failed at a bad time and I hadn't wired it to operate on the switch also(my bad).

I went with a sahara, I think its 1250gph. Internal switch. Works very good. I keep my old mayfair 1000gph with aligator clips in the boat just in case.
 

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Rule 4,000 GPH with a float switch. I mounted it all to a piece of cutting board so no holes to drill in boat. If you spear a wave or spring a leak, 1,000 GPH pumps will not save your boat. I also have the original 1,000 GPH pump to pump out light stuff.
 

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i am also lookng at getting a new bilge pump. actually was looking at the automatic ones as well. i have a rule 500 gph on switch on my dash. was thinking about an upgrade to a 750 gph as well. would an automatic pump wire up the same with the existing wires?





and rivernut that is one of hell of a discharge line.
 

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The Attwood Sahara's are good little pumps (500, 750, 1000 gph), we have never had a return on one that I remember. If you have the room I'd run the 2200 though as said above 1000gph won't save your boat in a serious incoming water situation. Link

Then I'd use the Water Witch electronic switch and wire it so you can switch back and forth between manual operation or let the Water Witch control it. Link You can use the Water Witch on any pump, not just the large ones. I prefer the electronic switches over the float style. I have used them both in the past.
 

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Do an Internet search about ADVERTISED flow rates, head height and voltage of bilge pumps. Many pump only 1/3 of their "rated" amount. They sometimes rate them at zero height or no hose or at an unrealistic voltage like 13.6-14.3 volts. I fish bass tournaments on Lake Champlain where 6-8' waves are common and facing a 60 mile run to get back may involve many total swampings from large waves. Many boats run two large pumps. Some separate and some run them in series in case the first one fails. Boats over 20' are not required by the Coast Guard to have floatation. When the boat floods it sits lower in the water, and the egine will hydrolock if the intake is at the waterline. The longer it takes to pump out the water the more waves come crashing in putting you back to square one. That hose I put on the 4,000 pump came from a custom hose shop. Rather than drilling a 2" hole or reducing it down and cutting it's volume in half, I opted to run it out an existing rod holder tube on the hatch lid / deck. The holder is only occasionally used when striper fishing and certainly isn't used when running rough water. It pumps the boat out quickly. Water above the driveline, even one time can ruin a jet pump thrust bearing.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
A 1000 - 2000 would be good but my hole in the hull is only a 1/2'' while the hose is a 3/4''. So upgrading to that much Gph would require me to add another hole or to make my current one larger?
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Pics

Pic of the 1/2 size bilge exit hole on the exterior of the hull and one of the 3/4 hose coming from the bilge. The hole above the old through transom exaust with the penny above it is plugged. The one to the right is the exit for the plumbing. Planning on buying two new bilge pumps and removing the old one.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Pic of the 1/2 size bilge exit hole on the exterior of the hull and one of the 3/4 hose coming from the bilge. The hole above the old through transom exaust with the penny above it is plugged. The one to the right is the exit for the plumbing. Planning on buying two new bilge pumps and removing the old one.
3/4 hose plugged.
 

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i am also lookng at getting a new bilge pump. actually was looking at the automatic ones as well. i have a rule 500 gph on switch on my dash. was thinking about an upgrade to a 750 gph as well. would an automatic pump wire up the same with the existing wires?

and rivernut that is one of hell of a discharge line.
on my daytona, i wired both up to the same switch and also connected the hot to the starter solonoid. it worked good because if i needed to force water out, i could do it with the switch. and both would turn on when the automatic pump would turn on, so that switch was never used. after having a lot of water in my bilge this weekend, i wil definately buy a automatic bilge pump this week!!

a 500gph pump is good enough. if you have a hole or your intake somehow falls apart, AINT nothing gonna save u..lol
 

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Discussion Starter #13
I imagine a 4000 gph would work pretty well lol.. I found a sahara 1100 gph, think im going to order two of those and a manuel / automatic switch.. One of the problems i had this weekend was getting water on the outside of my stringers. I think my injectors in my headers are leaking some where
 

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That switch is a poor design. Mine failed at a bad time and I hadn't wired it to operate on the switch also(my bad).

I went with a sahara, I think its 1250gph. Internal switch. Works very good. I keep my old mayfair 1000gph with aligator clips in the boat just in case.
X's 2 on the Sahara , something you don't want to "Skimp" on Tom
 
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